The Lair

See, constantly checking.........

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...o-ridge-grapplers.448139/page-3#post-13122287

You've really come full circle Randall.

Oh, and obviously you were a lot meaner back then too.

 

Times have definitely changed

 

Naturally you didn't have anything to do with that dork catching the permanent, right

 

Thanks Gents.

Too be honest I am going fucking crazy trying to figure this out. I want to run 35s. I have been researching the hell out of it and get varying reports, no rock solid conclusions. Yall have been doing this alot longer than me (I'm 2 years into my obsession) so any wisdom would be very helpful. I am trying to get the best guidance, insights, and recommendations before pulling the trigger on tires and wheels(if needed).

Okay I got 2015 4x4 sport, ext kings with resis &TC UCA up front, ext billies b110 in back with standard dakars for now (shock relocate, kings, deavers eventually), a 1"BL (only an inch to help clear 35s), Bruteforce Fab HC rear and Hybrid Front with custom mounts to accommodate 1" BL, .5" spidertrax spacers, and currently got 33s with FN wheels (KONIG COUNTERSTEER TYPE X : 16X8 ET0MM (4.5 BS) 6X139.7). I also took a BFH to my pinch weld, did an aggressive CMC, and will be rerouting my air intake, loosing my liners, and trimming my fenders (2.5"?).

I am not worried about clearance in front or above my front tires; however, behind my front tires at the firewall I am concerned.

Is there a magic formula? Recommended wheels with correct backspace? Recommend tire specs? I would buy new wheels if needed. With all my added weight from armor (bumpers, skids, sliders) eventually I was going to do a big break stoptech upgrade which I think I need 17s to fit?

I am an elementary school welder, so tubbing/firewall removal is beyond my current skillset, but I could pay a shop for that if needed.

Again this says it all ...
But I will not give up till I succeed. I just want to avoid mistakes (wrong wheels/tires etc) from the get and avoid rubbing everytime I back out of my driveway or stuff my wheels offroad. I do not want to rub at all.

I am getting ready to put in an ArB air locker in back and regear, so I wanted to determine my final tire size before I regear.

Please advise???

 

You don't need a BL for 35s, I have one but have been slowly setting up for 37s (or bigger). Seems like you have a pretty good set up as far as spacers and stuff like that for the wheels and tires. I wouldn't worry too much about the "later" work right now you'll be able to work around it. There is a bonus to jumping into a 17" wheel is your tire selection is greatly increased a ton. You do not need to remove the inner fender liner to fit 35s either lots of guys have kept them it just takes a little work to re-use them and keep them. But if you want to remove what Randy and others have done with the not a snorkel mod or a snorkel works as well. Once you get your tires the only real way to know what you'll have to clearance is to flex it and turn the wheel then slowly remove or massage what it rubs out of the way. There is no science to this. Like I said tires even though they are the same printed size may run bigger or smaller.

 

Which spacers? Spidertrax only comes in 1.25". Also what is your ultimate goal? Clear during the entire range of articulation, or are you ok with some rubbing? I was getting into it in another thread with someone about this very topic.

Also 2.5" is a lot to cut off the fenders. With your body lift, you probably wouldn't have to cut them at all.

 

But then you can't back out of a parking space
#selfclearancing

 

I do know some people who prefer to go this route

 

The big tires is when I'll get serious about tubbing and clearancing correctly.

 

I'm fully expecting to do a little tubbing with these 315s, at least on the core support directly above the tire. I could just hammer it out of the way but that'd look like shit.

The firewall I'll just bash out of the way if I can get away with that.

 

You really thing the front core support area will get in the way? Even the guys on 37s I haven't seen a lot with that area needing work. Speaking of core support, I've been thinking about ways to go about rebuilding mine. I really like the way that HHG did his stuff for the 37s and will be doing it similar to him when the time comes.

 

I've seen a lot of guys cutting theirs up. But I do think so, if not it's going to be mighty close. With my 295s at full stuff, they were maybe 1/4" away from hitting it. While off road I managed to hit the plastic liner while getting a little airborne. We'll see though, I'm excited to remove the coilover and see how much work I really have to do. If I do have to do a little tubbing, it'll be easy. There's not much at all in the engine bay that will get in the way, so just cut off the 90 degree corner, and plate it.

 

Ah the joys of having an early model with not much in the engine bay!!!!!

 

So true! I just wish I had an OR so the brake booster wasn't on the passenger side either. Then I'd really have a lot of room for activity.

 

You mean the ABS module You'd have a RHD truck if the booster was on the PS
I have an idea to make a bracket and move it up and off the inner fender and put it at the hoodline.

 

Sexy ass pic @oscolivar1 grabbed of Betty white today while I was chopping his truck up.

 

Say what now? That thing on the passenger side of our trucks is the brake booster. OR don’t have it there since it’s integrated into their master cylinder. They’re electronically boosted and we’re vacuum.

edit: or so I thought. I'm digging around now

 

Ok jk @ovrlndkull was right. First time for everything I guess

 

No all brake boosters are attached behind the MC and to the pedal either hydraulic or vacuum. They are there to reduce pedal feel. The thingy you are thinking of is the ABS module.

 

You are right in the fact I think the OR have the ABS module all on the DS though not 100% sure on that or maybe it's the later years when they started putting that stupid SAI on the trucks. You were just using the wrong terminology. All good you had the right idea.