Fox Life!!! Anything Related to Fox Suspension

I would recommend you get into a different hobby than modifying your truck if you expect aftermarket parts to fit to a high standard.

Also, what bushing are you referring to? I'm assuming we're talking rear shocks?

 

OMG - you guys are completely missing the point. And it did not fit. The bushings are just plain wrong. And it does not work as advertised (tuned to your specific vehicle configuration and use) or even safely for that matter. Everybody seems to have some big wisdom they want to impart even though they are completely removed from the situation and have no first hand knowledge of my experience. Done trying to explain.

 

You still never answered my question of what bushings.

 

Lower rear

 

Correct. Did they not come with a Second set to switch out with like we all had to do?

 

Yes and still not right

 

Ok.

 

In case you wanted to know why.

 

So I bought a stage 4 Fox kit with 2.5 RR and DSC from accutune about 10 months ago but don’t have it installed yet....
So my question is do I need to change the bushings before install...??
Or did accutune install them as I thought they said they came already installed.

 

@*TRD*

 

Give us a call and we can look up your order 424-377-0808

 

Is there somewhere I can look to see how many threads/rotations is needed in order to reach maximum lift on Fox 2.5 NON-Extended coil overs? I am currently running stock upper control arms.

 

The minimum length of the coil when installed is 11” for the 13” 600# coil that comes stock on the 2.5. Doesn’t matter if it’s extended length coil or not. I think that’s 27 threads exposed driver and 24 threads passenger, IIRC

 

I counted 22 threads on both sides. This is what I measured. Driver side then passenger.

 

I forgot to tag you in my last post. Measure the entire length of the coil while it’s on the truck. The 11” compressed length is the max.

You’re also gonna be pissed when you go to turn the collar on the top pic there, it looks like the set screw is not on the outside, but inboard. The bottom pic it looks fine.

 

Well shit. That means I'll have to remove it completely in order to increase/decrease the amount of lift huh?

 

No. It was a pain, but some patience and a little faith and you will succeed.

First, spray the top and bottom side of the coil collar with wd40, wait 30 minutes and spray again. You want this to penetrate into the threads.

Get an Allen key, the smaller the better because it's a tight fit, I believe it's a 3/16". A short stubby little guy like this:

Cause the longer handled ones will just get in the way when trying to turn it.

Get back there with your hand first and feel around. This will give you an idea where the hex head is, and feel a little more to identify the general orientation of the allen hole. Spending time analyzing this orientation first is a big key to skipping over a bunch of frustration of guessing.

You going to stick the stubby end into the allen head, with the long side out in order to get enough leverage to turn it. You'll NEED to know the direction you're turning before sticking it in, think about this, cause it determines whether you need the Allen key going up, or going down. There is so little space back there you probably can't start with the Allen key facing straight out towards the motor, the UCA/frame is in the way.

So once you determining the orientation of the set screw and which way you need to spin it to loosen, you're ready to attempt to stick it in and turn. DRY YOUR HANDS OF ANY LIQUID/GREASE, do the same for the Allen key. Grip is key.

Get ahold of that key and fish your hand behind the coilover to the location of the Allen bolt. Try sticking the stubby end in the Allen bolt, making micro adjustments to line up the hex sides. Once you get the Allen key in the hole, it will sink all the way in with a little force. Make sure ITS ALL THE WAY IN TO AVOID STRIPPING THE SET SCREW!

When it's all the way in, take a breath and relax, it won't fall out on its own. Get reorganized and start your first turn. It'll probably only be a quarter or half turn before you need to remove the key and start over, but it's way easier now because your already back there and keeping track of where things are in your minds eye.

After a couple turns, pause, leave the Allen key in the set screw and try your hand at spinning the coil with the spanner/punch. You only need to loosen the set screw a hair in order to turn the coils. DONT LOOSEN THE SET SCREW TOO MUCH or the collar will spread too much and jump threads on the coil. You don't want that to happen. If the collar won't turn, try another quarter turn and then try spinning with the spanner/punch again.

Once you get a few rotations on the collar, it gets a little easier. THE FIRST FEW TURNS YOU MIGHT MEED A RUBBER MALLET BANGING ON THE PUNCH, it's pretty stiff. When you feel like you've got the right preload, make sure that set screw is facing out, and go ahead and tighten that little guy.

Go for a ride to the alignment shop.

all done.

 

Thanks a lot! I'll see if I can get my hands in there this weekend and get the collar rotated so the screw is pointed out.

 

So I emailed Fox’s customer service to try and find information on the maximum amount of exposed threads the 2.5 non-extended coil overs allow and they said:

“These shocks will max out at 2”. They will come preset at that. to adjust every 2 turns equals approximately ¼” of adjustment.”

Should I be including the locking collar as well when doing my measurement or were mine not preset to the max?

 

Leave it there and enjoy the ride.