TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Yes that would be very helpful.

Well, at least that rules out UCON glitches.

 

Any thoughts on this Venom Cooler for Supercharger nose unit?

https://youtu.be/DdyVXSUH16Q

 

I nor anyone else runs them. They seem a little useless as the nose drives are not superheating anyways.

 

Thanks for reply, my thought was since our nose drives are integrated with SC inlet that it would transfer cooling inturn droooing the intake air a decent amount.

 

Methanol injection would net you better results while increasing your horsepower potential. I'm certainly intrigued by the cooler, but I can't wrap my head around how they are circulating the fluid internally without compromising the gear oil. Is there just a seal separating them? Is it a copper coil? I'd like to know more.

 

Ok so I had an early appointment this morning and wasn’t able to get my gopro setup, but when cruising is a 3.12 long fuel trim bad? I was paying a little attention to it. Later today I plan on getting my Ug setup better so I can record it.

 

I been trying to figure it out as well. I agree with meth, but this was just simple no additional pumps etc.. just hookin inline of coolant n go...

 

I think they mostly do this mod to support the snake bit mods, which overspeed the rotors and bearings. That could comprise gear oil and bearing life if they don’t incorporate additional cooling. I’m just not sure how that equates to reduced heat transfer to the charge air.

And don’t take this as an argument to dissuade you, I just don’t know. I’d like to see someone do it and figure out if it’s a worthy investment.

 

Id like to see an infared heat gun on nose and intake tube with substancial temp drop. Maybe ill convince him to float me a freebie to get more tacoma business if hes that confident in the product

 

+/- 5% is good to go.

 

I wish you luck on your endeavor. I have spoken to them in the past and have not found them to have an abundance of time for chit chat.

 

My supercharger guy had my runners ported by them and he too agrees that Mr. Steggy is a giant *insert expletive*.

 

So with all the recent additional mods done in the last couple years or so to increase speed and hp of our modded trucks. Are you guys still waiting for 100k miles to do the snout oil and or rebuild of your s/c?

 

Haven't thought about rebuild, but read several reports of snout oil being low, so decided to check mine. Found it was also low, so took the opportunity to extract what I could and refill with new oil - cheap/easy insurance.

 

If not sooner. My OEM spring coupling failed at around 90K. 100K is the most you'd want to plan on.

 

What he said. ^^

Of course that is only part of the story. I need to know individual fuel trims, bank 1 and 2 and then I need to know short term fuel trim too because long could appear okay but short is freaking out. I have seen short be wild and long be okay and vice versa.

In some boosted setups which allow it I know some GM vehicles have even went as far as disabling the LTFT parameter as it is no longer a proper gauge of correct fuel control. Not the case here for us though as LTFT is still a good way of diagnosing fuel control.

 

Because these units are hand built by Magnuson it is difficult to get every single one correct. With mine for example when I did my spring coupler, internals cleaning, and greasing the oil was actually slightly overfilled and I wound up putting in less than what I pulled out of it. That oil from what I observed was only there lubricate the gear drive part of the nose drive assembly.

Honestly even if it is a little low I would not count on there being damage to them just because of that.

100K is up to you for service interval. How particular are you about maintenance is what it boils down to. If you feel uncomfortable going that long then go 60K.

 

Yeah guys I figured sooner since I’m essence it’s now doing more work. I knew (stock) is 100k. Now I’m thinking 60-70ishk. I never heard of low oil though. That’s a new one to me. I’ll check mine now for sure.
On that, when you unscrew the fill bolt, does oil come out or is the level below the hole? Also I’d imagine I’ll have to extract all the fluid to measure what’s in it right?

 

At least a few of us found some internal pressure when removing the oil plug. My oil level was, however, below the hole when I started.

Extracting the oil is the only way I know to measure what's there - I was able to remove a little over 2oz. (Note that you'll need a long, narrow syringe/turkey baster and you'll have to fish around a bit to get most of the oil.)

I refilled until oil oozed from the hole, which was about 3oz, and re-installed the plug.

 

What happened when it broke? No boost or was it still intsct but noisy?