HP Tuners for 2005-2015

Yeah I'm in it over 40% and at 3500rpm. I'll adjust to that. Thanks.
Also we are looking at the "Normal" not the "Normal Hot"?

 

Any 6MT guys in here looking for an throwout bearing upgrade?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/manual-2nd-gen-fix.624299/page-3#post-21480169

 

$50 - Baseline tune and continued support after to refine the mapping to your specific liking, engine and environmental factors. If you install future mods, I’ll work with you to get the most out of your setup as it evolves.

 

Well said!

 

Is this a significant enough evolution to refine my previous tune? Did it mostly for funsies and a little for gaining back some space in the bay, no clue if it'll effect airflow enough to tune for

 

I had a very similar setup myself! It wasn’t necessary for me to retune mine. If you’ll take a log (I can send you a channels config file) I’ll see if there’s anything we can do.

 

I have the config file from when you posted it many many pages back. I'll get a log sometime in the next couple weeks and send it your way

 

Now that my shocks are done, I'm working on my tunes again.

Fixed my cruise control, had to put both torque based throttle maps back to stock. I think it uses a combination of both maps for throttle control of the cruise.

Is there any way to log requested torque????? I would like to fine tune these maps to fix traction control, but still have the cruise work..

Broke down and I'm using the comp protect map, works really good, much better part throttle power and smooth transition from closed to open loop. I have to test the MPG...

Also fixed my slow shifting, moved the pcs line pressure map the wrong way...

 

what did you do for that one?

 

PCS line pressure, lower number seams to shift faster, I moved it up and it was shifting really slow, now I moved it lower than stock at the high end and it shifting much better and a little quicker than stock... I left it stock for lower rpm for now.

 

Yup that would be the right way to go, The lower the solenoid duty cycle the higher the pressure, effectivly making it to where when the system requests say 540kPa of pressure it gets more because the duty cycle is lower than the stock of 20 % duty cycle.

I always wondered why the ecu doesnt come setup to use a full duty cycle from 100 to 0 for the PCS- Line Pressure and PCS - TCC Pressure. Effectively leaving pressure on the table for PCS Line pressure due to the inverse nature of lower duty cycle = higher pressure, but lowest duty cycle stock is 20...

I wonder if "bad things" can happen if you fully shut or open (depending on how that solenoid works) as you get closer to 0 duty cycle.


EDIT.... i got curious and threw numbers in excel for a lil prediction and visual representation. Stock curve is the blue line, orange dashed line is a linear forcast based on stock data, dotted red line is a 3rd poly trendline that seems to fit the stock data VERY well and extrapolated out to 0 % duty cycle, id believe the trendline more so than linear.



Edit2-I really should get back to work... jezus.

 

Yeah I had a 50/50 chance, but shifting good now, nice quick shifts.
I may speed up some of lower RPM but seams ok.

I wish we could log more of these parameters.

 

if you have a look at my V11 tune excel doc

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/hp-tuners-for-2005-2015.600793/page-219#post-21427790

You will see in the sheet labeled gear pressures, the conglomeration of pressures I run across the board now regardless of gear. With that + your changes to the PCS Line pressure you will end up with greater pressures across the board without weird dips in the curves like a stock 2012+ auto trans does.

 

My guess is that 20% is the end of the linear range of that solenoid. Most all of the solenoids i’ve worked with have a duty cycle limit around there where they stop actually doing any moving and are effectively ‘stuck’ open or shut.

 

Yeah I figure there is a physical limit with the stock set up. I'm still plying with it but I'm sure I'm about maxed out.
Time to get a shift kit, the trucks shift really slow and soft. Plus my truck is getting old.
My FRS shifts much faster and positive, basally the same trans.

 

Gotcha that would make sense, there's a minimum amount of duty cycle to make things move at all. (Pumps, fans, motors etc)... So a solenoid is likely no different.

Have you played with reducing timing retard under torque management I think that's one thing where we could make trans shifts more sporty to keep the motor in the power... But dunno how nice that would be to the trans itself.

 

It might be worth digging into the factory parts manuals for the bigger/heavier equipment that uses the same transmission. Something like a land cruiser or delivery truck almost certainly has quicker shifts(though may not feel that way) simply due to it's extra base weight. Back in my long past I was helping a buddy with working out how to make a shift kit for an IS300 Lexus(way before any aftermarket stuff) and we ended up using a lot of bits out of the LS/GS transmissions. Using all factory parts we ended up with a pretty decent combination of bits that worked for us and this was before we had any ability to change line pressures or shift points. After all the work of figuring it out I think we had maybe $100 into the actual parts(mostly springs and shuttles if i recall).

 

you might be onto something! someone start looking at parts diagrams.

 

So since I’ll eventually hop on the bandwagon here I’m looking for a spare ECU first. I have a 2007 truck. Can I use any ECU from 05-07 as long as it’s from a 4.0 automatic 4x4 donor?

 

Easiest is to stick your phone up in there and take a pic of the ECU to get the part number and get the exact same part number