TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Sweet! I'm really digging mine.

 

I'm sure @Murphinator will chime-in with the scoop but, having heard estimates ranging from $800-$2500 for ceramic coatings in this area, may I ask what you consider "expensive"?

 

A good friend of mine does ceramic pro and I think he charges 1500 give or take. Great product. His truck always looks like it was just washed and I know that's not the case.

 

They want close to $3000 for ceramic pro while other shops are charging along the lines of what you listed, in the range of $1000 - $2000, for other brands. I'm no expert, I'd just like to see the "5 years later" results before I pull the trigger. Its a newer product around here so you have to literally take their word on the longevity.

 

My truck is by no means a show truck. It gets dirty regularly but, being black, I'd like it to clean up a little easier when it does.

 

I'm not familiar with Ceramic Pro, but $3K is higher than anything I've heard in my area.

In fairness, factors that affect price include the brand of ceramic coat, the warranty offered within each product, the amount of correction required prior to coating, the areas included (e.g., door jambs, calipers, wheel faces, wheel barrels, under hood, etc), the number of coating layers (i.e., a single application or multiple products designed to work in combination with each other), and whether the detailer is certified to apply the product(s) being used. That's a lot of variables, so a variety of prices is unsurprising. I'm also a little skeptical of most warranties that claim anything beyond a couple of years, including Gtechniq CSU's nine year claim. In the end, I suppose only time will tell... FWIW, my experience to date is that the increased shine and ease of maintenance with a coating is worth a "moderate" investment. It's likely we all define "moderate" differently but, for me, anything up to $1.5K for full correction and multi-year (at least 5yr) coating of the body, door jambs, calipers, wheel faces, wheel barrels, and painted under hood surfaces by a certified installer seems reasonable.

 

How much $$ we talking for internals? And I should Probly upgrade valves also. What do u recommend and how much$$. Lol. I’m trying to debate doing it right or just fixing the motor and selling it with the supercharger and look into swapping something else in.

 

And how much is the stroker kit?

 

5.5k with the rods pistons and crank

 

Anyone charging less than $800 for a ceramic probably shouldn’t be trusted. And for a tacoma that number should probably be 1k or higher.

Ok so the thing about ceramic pro:
1. They will certify anybody for this stuff it seems.
2. They will gladly encourage you to pay for as many coats as possible. Let me 50 coats my truck will be protected for ever right?

These are my biggest issues with them. There is plenty more but heres the thing
Adding a crap load of layers is doing nothing but wasting product and your money.

It boils down to this, ceramic pro has great marketing, but they are pretty scammy. They will lie and tell you all kinds of BS. And even though billy’s detail shop is certified and just installed 50 coats on your vehicle that is “warrantied” good luck in a year when billy is gone trying to get ahold of ceramic pro.

They remind me of chemical guys, who are also mostly good marketing. But atleast chemical guys has some decent stuff.

I would put a consumer grade coating on a car before I ever went for ceramic pro.

 

Figured you guys would dig this...
@Torspd

 

alright guys, went out to my truck just now to help a dude on IG confirm his setup was working properly, only to find out mine currently isnt. The intercooler pump is running, but the reservoir is isnt flowing at all. Pump runs and checks out, I can feel pressure in the outlet hose going into the intercooler, then afterwards.. nothing. I assume the intercooler has a blockage? The truck rarely gets driven, occasionally on weekends. Poor Blower has been running hot for who knows how long.. Might be the cause to my lower boost readings.

 

Drain the coolant and disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses to the pump. Run the inlet in a bucket with water to confirm it is actually pushing coolant out through the outlet, aim the outlet hose towards the bucket as well. If it is then there's may be a blockage somewhere else which you will have to systematically inspect.

 

http://sohiperformance.com/i-566147...MIgpSohMTH5AIVwp-zCh31hQ1AEAQYASABEgJRTvD_BwE

$4600 just saying...

 

beautiful car man. than finish is impressive.

 

ill stick to clay bar if thats the tag. i still have fuel rail bulds and cams to install.

 

That is a pretty good price! Look up the rods that I mentioned, and pistons individually to see what it would be non stroker.

 

if you compare what you get for the money to the cams some of us bought that price is quite reasonable. im sure the install and possible sleeve work makes it double. @Torspd i assume has a better idea on price than i do. if i had funding id have already posted my purchase receipt. @Torspd approved...nice!

 

Molnar rods are around 600, DC rods around 6 to 800, and JE to CP Pistons are around 1000 to 1200.

APR studs, found through LCE are around 300. Cometic Head gaskets are around $250.

 

so @Torspd , what season and reigon should i look for the money tree fruit?