TC LT (+2) & Wheel/Tire Question

Planning for the TC +2 race kit. I'm pretty convinced I want to run 285/75/17, seen a bunch of threads where this tire IMO looks perfect on the Tacoma. 35" would be cool, but don't want to deal with cutting the OEM fender, as I actually appreciate the factory body lines.

I'm looking at the Method MR312 wheels, 17x8.5 with a 0/4.75". I think somewhere in my search I found TC says 4.5" minimum, but can not find the thread for reference.

What would be the proper offset for me? Like to try to get this all figured out before I start ordering.

 

If a tire won’t fit stock, it will rub when stuffed no matter what.

That being said here are a few pointers that I’ve learned reading the multiple threads on the topic.

Alignment: this is key with larger tires, mainly caster. For a 33” tire there are conflicting reports but 3.5 deg caster or above is what I’d shoot for. You won’t get there with stock UCAs, so plan that in the lift if you haven’t already.

Offset: positive offset is going to cause problems with rubbing the stock UCA. Especially with fat 285s. Skinny 255s aren’t a problem in stock wheels with the positive offset. If you run negative offset, you will most likely rub the cab mount with 285s. If you run 0 offset with 285s you will still rub plastic, and potentially the cab mount. 275/70/17 seems to be about as big and wide as you can go there and not rub.

If you run 285s period more often than not you are going to have to trim, bend and potentially cut... that is, if you don’t want to rub.

 

Don't mind smashing the pinch weld in the fender or CMC. I just don't to chop up/trim away the over fenders.

 

I am planning on running effectively the same set up. Except 17x8 0 offset wheels. With my current mid travel set up and 34’s I clear the cab mount but need to flatten the pinch weld a bit.

Check out the Taco Blanco build on the TC page and here. It’s a ‘16 +2LT 285/70/17 on methods. Pat told me the tire scuffs the inner upper part of the flair at full bump.

I would gladly trade my FN FX pros for some TRD sema pros (+ 5 offset) 4.5 bs and run 35x10.50x17 Kenda’s like @Lord Humongous.

Does anyone know if LT kits shift things forward (away from the cab mount/pinch weld)?

I play with this site... I feel like the less tire sticking out the better.

 

Thank you, this is exactly what I needed!

 

I think we’re gonna rub worse than Taco Blanco cause 34’s measure taller but...

Also, wish there are some wider flairs without bushwhacker style pockets/bolts.

 

Go +3.5 LT! Get some fiberglass fenders, thats my plan, love the body lines, but if you're spending the money then you might as well get as much bang for your buck and drink the LT kool aid... Bedcage/SUA/External bypass, everything.

 

My fear is I am the type that just does it correct the first time. I wont do something to "hold me off" until I do whatever the end result. The thing I know about long travel; it really is the snow ball effect. To be honest, I was just going to to some UCA's and kings, and be done. I dont plan on doing any racing around in the desert just something for a little height for trails and such. Then I said, screw it, Ill just do the long travel, because if I go "mid travel" and am upset I would tell myself, see this is why you do it right the first time. I immediately went to the +3.5" kit, but quickly fell to the +2" kit. The 3.5 kit seems way over kill for my goals, and of course that's when the snow ball effect took over. I really would like to not have to go fiberglass, main reasons; previous trucks in the past it was a PITA to get fitted right. The Tacoma is my first "small" truck. I've always had 3/4 and 1 ton trucks, still do - as my daily. I really like how small the truck is. Extending the front 7" and adding fiberglass, I feel this defeats the purpose of what brought me to the Tacoma. Then I go back down to just doing a "mid travel kit" and back to +2 lol. What worries me is even the +2 kit calls for fiberglass. What KanPanic said above, if TC is saying they are rubbing their 33" tires, what makes me think I will get away with running 34"

 

I've done the back and forth dance for some time now and should have went straight to LT, but decided to finally do it right, the width is a necessary evil to see the amount of travel and I don't think that takes awat from the functionality of the truck as a truck, it may be an inconvenience to have to park further away or back up a couple extra times, but otherwise the cost is almost the same you can't go wrong with either +2 or +3.5 kit, the rear is just an extra can of worms.

 

How are guys running the SCS ray10s with these kits? I don’t know why I’m not grasping this.

 

yeah your gonna destroy stock fenders im sure the first time you reach full bump if you don't trim them way back. I'm not sure the difference in fender measurements between the 2nd and third gen but i can tell you with 33"s on my 2nd gen i still have to trim the fender wells this winter from rubbing at full bump at the dunes this summer. I can say though that i'm probably changing my +2 kit up this winter for a +3.5 kit so i can gain more travel. One thing i will say is that no matter what you do in the front the rear is going to be your weak link, so make sure you have a good plan for that, wether you do a DMZ kit, Camburg, Total Chaos or Archive Garage.

 

Pretty much just going to chop the fenders, it is what it is. Didn't want to, but have seen a couple trim jobs that look decent. Does TC max backspace or minimum backspace? Confusing. Camburg says Max 4.75. Still not convinced on +2 vs +3.5 kits. I like the idea of most bang for buck, but not sure if I like the 7" added track width at this point. i can do the 4" and then throw spacers on the rear to keep the rear width the same...

 

That’s gonna be a max backspace in order to make sure it clears everything, once you trim your fenders and finally get it installed just cycle the suspension up with the coilovers out and then you can see if you have any other rubbing issues, and the spacers are what I did to try and match track width the best I could

 

so say a scs ray 10; 4" on the 16 wheel and 4.3 on the 17 is a no go

 

From someone who recently went to a +2 kit, go +3.5. I wish I would have. The +3.5 kit will basically cost the same amount of money and you will gain more. The only additional cost will be glass.

Backspacing can be a confusing number. It is a function of offset and rim width. Offset is the dimension that you really want to look at. Offset is the distance the mounting surface is from the center of the wheel. the center of the wheel does not change regardless of rim width. The backspacing measurement would.
Example: 0 offset, 8 inch width = 4.5" backspacing
0 offset, 8.5 inch width = 4.75" backspacing
In this example the wheel and tire are in the same position relative to the mounting surface, the only difference is the width of the rim.

A 34" tire is likely going to be too tall without fiberglass with any LT kit. If you are using all the travel you will hit your fender.

 

Ok, I have been talked into the fiberglass fenders. But once again I need to make sure everything will work.

I do know I dont want to go 6" fenders, just not my taste. But the 3" dont seem so bad.
Listening to the advice everyone has given me who had gone +2 and wish they went +3.5, I guess I should start there. Will the 3" fenders be enough for the 3.5? I would assume, yes with a little "tire poke." I did see a thread last night which @Lttrdpro mentions with his mcneil 3" bedsides, 1.5" spacers and 315 tires will not work with the DMZ SUA kit. Not sure if this is just DMZ, but I do plan on doing an Archive Garage hammer and SUA kit using the Deaver Spring U539/540. I do know whatever extended length arms I choose to go with in the front, I will be running spacers in the rear to match the track width, so not sure if just created a new issue.

 

1. 3" is a wise choice
2. You've officially drank the koolaid, godspeed
3. 3" should be enough depending on the wheel/tire combo/how much up travel you will using
4. With the amount of travel he is getting in the rear and locations of the shocks/tire size/wheel combo it is likely he added the spacers to get away from those sweet bypasses and is now getting some hang up on the fender, could always cut away some glass...

 

Not sure if it matters, but thinking 12" bypasses with the archive shock relocation mounts.

 

just curious but why is there limited info on Camburg's kit. I was able to get a really good quote on their kit today and now it has got me thinking.