Plunge switch for tailgate.

The female pin from any Muyi 10 kit will fit the Toyota courtesy lamp switch...it takes like 3 pounds of pressure to push it on or pull it off so it ain’t going anywhere on it’s own. Add your wire slide it on heat shrink the connection done deal.

 

I know if you have access to the online TIS, you can look up the part number for the connector if OEM is important. Unfortunately, i dont. Maybe someone here has that capability.

 

I went ahead and ordered 2 of these switches. I was able to find a 2 pack on ebay for $12. Hopefully they'll hold up. The last time I went cheap, it bit me in the butt. I need one for under the hoop and one for the tailgate. For under the hood, there seem to be a few installation location possibilities. Look at the broken switch on the right of the picture. There are rubber stoppers across that line. Hopefully one of them will work.

 

Yes sometimes its hard to read all the post and not forget what you want to do..

I did run a hot from the battery with a fuse near it, i don't need it to be with the dome light for the alarm as i have a pop-n-lock so its always locked.
as i said the pin switch is the last part of the wiring line for the ground, the over ride switch i can't help you wire as it is different with the one you may get, mine will light up with only the door open and it pushed in, and turning off the bed LED, i am using DRL light strips in the bed, $10~$12 for 6 i think.
You can buy a kit for $80 i think but i wanted to do it my way.

 

Ive already ran 12V to the rear of the truck so I think I'm just gonna run from a hot 12V through the LEDs to a cutoff switch and end it at the tailgate switch. That won't get my tailgate connected to the alarm but, like you, the pop and lock should suffice. Thanks for the advice.

 

Look at inner fender lip for some holes too. I have my hood switch installed in one (although not a plunger) but It was/is a great temp solution until I find a more permanent solution.

Switch above the headlight tab (although I’m not sure if the clearance is to great to make contact with the hood and plunger)

Speaking of permanent solutions- One such as this… if I could only decipher for the connectors and pnp

 

the terminals needed are the 090/2.3II type like the drawing shows. One terminal would have a dual wire to split the tap to the OEM side and the other to the added "plunger" switch.

 

I thought about using the fender lip but decided against it since the hood slopes there. I ended up using the hole just inside of the hood height adjust screw. There is some reinforcement inside of the hole but the metal is soft so I just bent it out of the way. I used Toyota door ajar switches as suggested here. I razored the ears off of the switch housing and used a 5/8" knockout for the switch and drill and tapped (M6X1.0 with a .196 drill bit) the screw hole. I did this for the hood and the tailgate. The hood closure turns off the added hood lights with no adjustment necessary. I've only mounted the tailgate switch. I plan to run LEDs around the bed off of the switch. I have already ran a hot 12V to the rear of the truck.

 

Hey OP can you show i pic of how flush the gate closes now with the thicker switch in ? as the switch is bigger than the bumper you replaced ? I just don't want the back open by 1/16 of a inch.

thanks

 

Here are 2 pics from slightly different angles. Yes it does stick out some and actually looks worse in the pics than it does in person. I may end up taking off the rubber covering like the 3rd pic, it doesn't stick out at all then. Of course, you'd then have to worry about rain getting to it but that could be solved by squirting it with some grease or WD40 every month or two.

Edit: I lopped the top half of the plunger off and it still pushes the tailgate out some. I ended up comparing the height of the original rubber bumper to the height of the switch and there just isn't any way to avoid the tailgate sticking out besides using another switch or removing the rubber cover, which is what I'll end up doing since i have a spare switch.

 

Thanks for the follow up. that looks like what i was thinking it would look like,
i have a pin switch now but i don't think it will last more than a few years looking to make something long lasting.

Im post #9 if you want to see..

 

I'd be careful with that switch. I used one for my hood and the black plastic broke. It took draining my battery to find that out. That's why I changed over to the door ajar switch which is a very stout switch. If you want to use a pin switch, I'd recommend one of these. There are a ton of switch options. The one you've chosen wasn't a good one for me.

 

get a murcury tilt switch and put it inside the tailgate
cheap, easy to mount and I've never seen one wear out.

 

Great idea. I probably would've went that way had I thought of it. Of course, now I have a.hole on my truck. But I havent seen any mercury switches that are more than 0.5A. Well, there was one 12.5A switch but a review said it's really a ball bearing switch and not mercury. I guess, if it works, it doesn't really matter. I only did a quick ebay search for "mercury tilt switch."

 

BUT that's MORE wires to run thru the gate that have to be unpluged when you remove the tailgate... i actually thought about a proximity switch that would "see" the gate closed..Just haven't had time to mess with it.

 

true, but ive only had to take off my tail gate once in 30 years to do body work on it.

 

Yep. That'd work. A reed switch/magnet like is used on windows and doors for home alarm systems.

 

I spent way to much time and money in trial and error but I finally figured out a switch that doesn't require drilling a new hole and is hidden. I noticed that the bump stops are hollow in the center and the shaft of a pin switch fits nicely within the the hole. So I hollowed out the back side of a bump stop so it would fit over the nut of the switch and Plastidiped the tip to blend it in.


Here is the switch I used but it is .5 MM wider in diameter than the bump stop hole so I cut some threads into the bump stop hole and put a nut on the back side. But the original bump stop still will fit perfectly after. If you try this make sure you switch the ground, not the hot, because the switch itself is a grounding source.




Here is the final result...

 

could you trim down the white part of the switch so it doesnt stick out so far, but still works when pushed in? You could find its trip point with an ohmmeter...Just dont know how much of the white part needs to be pushed in to close the circuit.