OME D29XL with the CS047

You got it doc, I hope that my advice to lower torque isn't the cause.

 

I really don't think it is. But I will check on that as well.

 

Alright....just checked some torques.
The U bolts were many ugha-duggas off. Each bolt needed a few good turns.
I want to believe this was the cause, but I haven't driven it since the torque down.
Other bolts were good - front shackle, back shackle, center pin.
Did notice what appeared to be a little rubbing on the outside edge of the passenger side leaf near a rebound clip.
All clips have rubber isolators on them, some are a little too short after the AAL install.

edit: Just got back from driving it.....pops are gone.

 

That’s the second clunk I’ve successfully diagnosed for you from across the country.

 

I also used a trick that @GHOST SHIP taught us......switch out the nuts on all of your bolts to the shackles and the front of the leaf to nylon lock nuts and torque to 50 ft lbs instead of 87 ft lbs. Gives more articulation and less bushing binding. They are M14 x 1.5. I got some from Fastenal. Btw, do you have a ubolt flip kit?

 

Interesting any negatives to this?

 

No negatives found as of yet and I’ve been running my rear hardware like that for over a year.
Although, Without using nylocks you run the risk of the nut backing out. Prior to getting nylocks, I used blue loctite and didn’t have any issues. Also if you are going to use nylocks, make sure to run them down manually. If you use air or electric impacts, the heat generated from the nut spinning fast will melt the nylon insert thus rendering the “nylock” useless.

I’ve done enough installs and found a lot of people tend to overtorque the rear suspension bolts/nuts. You’re robbing yourself of rear travel just by over torquing. I talk about it briefly in my Dakar Bushing thread.

 

Thank you sir for taking the time to explain. I have to fix my clunking as well

 

I love the way the truck moves now. No issues and no "w"ing of the leaf pack anymore. The nuts haven't moved a bit and it can save on the bushings.

Definitely did it by hand.......and btw .....YOU ARE THE MAN!

 

Just here to help.

Ubolts in the rear and cam bolts in the front are the two usual suspects for clunks.

Good luck.

 

My clunking and popping was coming from my bushings that needed to be regreased and even at recommended torque specs, it would still do it. Not anymore with the nylocks.

 

Clunks are sudden movement (binding) whereas squeaks are friction based (rubbing/grinding). It’s the old WD40/duct tape philosophy.




*duct tape = more torque

WD40 = your grease of choice (mine being super lube).

 

Yes, yes it is.
But from reading your post below it sounds like you are out of tricks now.

I do have a U bolt flip.

None here either. Have had them on for about 2 months now. I really like the change in suspension feel.

Same.

 

Okay.....
the pop is back. Not as bad, but there.
Will check torque on the U bolts again. May have to change the U bolts out maybe.
These were different ones than the others that were on there before.

 

What are they torqued down too?

 

damn that pop

 

I had mentioned somewhere that a u-bolt flip usually requires that you pinch the u-bolts together so they are tight against the leaf pack as you are tightening everything down. The goal being that you can get them as close to vertical and parallel as possible as opposed to spread open (/ \). That'll give you a false torque reading until they self-adjust under driving conditions (the popping noise) and you are able to re-torque properly

 

79 ft lbs

Will check the positions. Pretty sure they are vertical and parallel.