Does anyone have actual experience with tranny fluid change?

I did 4 DAFs within a 2 week period at 55k (10k miles ago) to freshen up the fluid. From this point forward I plan to do a DAF every 15k to maintain things.

I'm under warranty until 125k. So to play it safe I stuck with WS. When I do my pan drop/filter change at 100k I may use Maxlife. I run it in 4 other older high mileage Toyotas with great results.



Daughter's Yaris. 1st of 3 DAFs a couple of years ago.

 

I am going to do this flush/transfer on my 2.7l 4 speed will be easier since I got a refill tube and wont have to do any temp check crap, I was investigating using other than Rec'd OEM T-IV fluid but im playing it safe buy 2 cases of Toyota t-iv to do it

 

For an easier time getting into temp check mode...forget trying to shove a wire in there.

Buy a OBDII plug for $6 off of Amazon and permanently jump pins #4 and #13. Now it's a plug-and-play operation.

 

Update: I think my transmission was never properly filled from toyota (read about this on another thread). When I add 1.5q then I also only get 1.5q out of the cooler, after this it just starts spudering.

The previous owner kept all the old receipts and on one it says that he wanted an oil change but it isn't recommended. See picture.

 

something don't sound right it the supposed total 11.5 quarts total and your only getting 1.5 quarts out of the cooler line than it sputters like empty, should be a lot of ATF left to pump out, im thinking there may be a quirk in this system because maybe its just pumping out what ATF that's in the pan 1.5 qts. u put in, and none coming out of the torque converter where the majority of the fluid is? could that be? in those videos and thread the dude took out initiall 2.75 quarts and pumped back in same, the cooler line dumped about 3quarts out again, maybe cause the torque converter isn't locked up your not cleaning out that fluid, but only redoing whats in the pan?

 

I mean the pump has to get oil from somewhere and I expect the pumps sits right at the beginning of the transmission..sucks the oil from the pan and then pushes the oil in a closed circuit through the transmission. So once it sucks air it runs dry.

 

this is what I thought though initially it sucks out the pan that's where the filter is located but I would think it should push through the whole trans. too, I do notice the thread and video they only do 2.5-3 quarts at a times and it does suck the first all the ATF in the pan that's where the suction starts, if your only first grabbing the clean 2.5-3 quarts in the pan are u really getting the 8-9 qts that's dirty in the torque convertor too?

 

Same situation and outcome. I did it 3-4 more times over the next month. Don't overthink it. If something breaks you will need to ask serious questions, but not now. Drain and fill until it is nice and red after a month or two.

 

I bought 3 gallons of atf. Now I topped it off with 2.1q and I have 2q left in case I need more oil after the procedure for getting the right fill level.
I only did the flush in 1.5q steps ...drain and fill

 

I get what your saying, just do the pan drain at 3 quarts and refill on regular intervals you will be getting about a 1/3 of the fluid out and replenish with new atf, that's what ive been doing pan drains every 30k

 

could you have gotten more than 1.5 quarts out of the cooler lines? like 2-3 qts

 

No never, 1.5q always

 

that's fuckin strange, you would think a 11.6 qt. total should easily move 2-3 quarts a shot without sputtering dry, I would do the pin jump temp check to safely make sure its full, that would be the only way to make sure its not severly low on ATF

 

Yep, and there we have the next issue...the at temp light will not come on after I start the shifting procedure. I bridged the pins, all lights are flashing also at temp and then it turns off but never goes on after the 6times shifting.

 

https://youtu.be/vpGIBJPnJX4

 

That's the video I followed...

 

Several of the dash warning lights will begin to flash (normal). Then shifting from "P" to "N" (pausing briefly in "N"), began a series (six shifts) of "N" to "D" to "N" cycles with the shifter. After the 6 shifts are completed the red AT TEMP light should illuminate for 2 seconds (important to note). Place the AT back into "P" (light will illuminate again for 2 seconds) and let the truck idle to warm the fluid. It is important to note that the light illuminated for two seconds as that verifies that the truck entered "Temp Check Mode". Without this verification, you may wait all day for a light to illuminate without the truck actually being in mode.

When the AT TEMP light illuminates constantly, the fluid is at the correct temperature for checking. If the AT TEMP light should begin to start blinking, this means the fluid temp has surpassed the allowable range and you must shut off the truck and let the system cool. Retry again after a 1/2 hour break.

Here is a linked Youtube video I uploaded to clarify the procedure. Sorry for the poor quality, but all I had to use was my P&S Camera with video mode.

 

Ok didn't shift fast enough from n to D


No old came out of the check port tho

 

that means the trans is underfillled, I would add 1 quart redo the temp shit see if you get spillage, if not keep adding 1 quart intervals till u get spillage at the temp check, the trans sounds like it could have been really under filled, this happened to some other dude he had to refill ATF until he finally got spillage. your going to be an expert by the time ur done

 

I don't watch "all girls garage", but in my opinion this chick put it all together.