TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

yah all the lines, fluid, etc is all replaced. It would really be cutting off the drums and adding the rear disc setup. Its one of those doing so and being disappointed on the feel but seems like with the OR it may not be as bad based on extra stuff the E booster has compared to the regular one.

 

I know they sell a proportioning valve and a master but the master won't swap the OR from what I have gathered. If you find time to read up on the rear conversion threads they mention it in there. So was thinking that could help adjust some bias but if the master cant support enough may just be back to square 1 again. Majority of people that have done it are Sport or SR models. I do not see as many of if any Off Road models with the swap unless they want full ham and swapped axles. Which in a way is the same thing.

 

@12TRDTacoma Would you be willing to add something to the OP regarding the one way check valve for high performance fuel pumps? I had an issue with long starts after letting the truck sit several hours, and this fixed my issue. Figured someone else might find it useful. Im trying to track down this info for someone else having prolonged starts, and i came to the pg 1 in here to try to find it, but i could not..

 

Update on my truck:

I ordered the HPT MPVI2 and @JustDSM walked me through the process of modifying the BD tune. Unfortunately, this didn't fix the problem. I still got lean codes in banks 1 and 2. @JustDSM looked at my logs and found that my fuel trims were off by about 40%. I took it back to the shop and had them inspect the fuel pump and line pressure. Turns out the original shop that installed my SC kinked the lines from the tank to the motor causing a huge reduction in volume of fuel to my motor. Now that I look back on it, it seems almost obvious, but I guess that's hindsight talking.

TL; DR: fuel pump lines were kinked causing all of my issues. Problem Resolved!!

 

Wow, hopefully they also used the correct submersible fuel lines.

 

I have personally never seen a particular need for one, because the thing is that all fuel pumps unless otherwise specified come with an internal check valve. If you are having cranking issues and it can be isolated to a faulty check valve then you have a defective fuel pump, and external valve is somewhat band aiding the issue.

Toyota strategy while cranking is to provide fuel upon STA signal, not at KOEO (Key on engine off) to prime the lines like many if not just about all other manufacturers. The pressure holds for a while but eventually drains back into the fuel tank. Ocassional extended starts are to be expected, as I even get them every once in a very blue moon, but frequent ones are not normal nor acceptable, despite fueling at crank strategy.

I can add it later, but ultimately I always recommend replacing the pump if you are having frequent, and consistent issues.

 

unfold
very good

 

When I have to remove my fuel pump again for whatever reason I plan on running a nylon line instead of the rubber one I am running now. Less room for error and eventual delivery line issues.

 

If provided I like doing stuff right the first time. The radium stuff is great.

 

The thing that gets me is that they installed the URD fuel pump and SC and turned it over with the motor hard to start and hesitating under throttle. Then the engine blows and they tell me that it was because of either poor fuel or the smaller pulley. The reason i took it to a shop was to have a professional handle it. They never thought to check their work or even check the fuel pump/lines to see if that could be the reason or at least contributing to the fuel delivery issues.

I had the new shop take out the URD and put a new stock pump back in. I'm running the 2.85 pulley, but they said that the stock pump should be able to keep up no problem. I know a lot of people like the URD pump, but is it really necessary?

 

If you guys are interested.....I’ll give you guys a better deal. Cuz I’m appreciative on how much money we spend on go fast stuff.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/for-sale-coupe-battery-hold-down.629650/#post-21568644​

 

URD makes the kit which includes an external fuel filter, they don’t make the actual pump. And an upgraded fuel pump is cheap insurance.

 

Yes, it is necessary. You will notice an improvement in performance with the pump. Stock barely keeps up with the 3.00" pulley, 2.825 is too much for it. You came this far, don't strangle yourself.

 

My back was up against the wall at the time. My fuel pump literally failed and I had to do it because it was either I walk to work or I fix the truck and in my area walking to the next town or even biking is not really an option due to the highway literally connecting two towns together. It's a stupid setup.

If they are not professional enough to check their work then they are not professionals. They owe you a motor and if you can prove it then they owe you a motor, point blank period.

And to answer your question about the pump, YES IT IS NECESSARY. Unless you feel lucky enough to play Russian Roulette on your second engine and win.

 

i ran the 2.85 pulley and stock pump from 2011 to 2019. just changed pumps like a month ago. had no fueling issues prior to changing pumps

 

Got drunk and ordered 4 of these. Heck do I do with these on a street car?

 

You give them to me. For research purposes.

This my friends is why I don't drink anymore. Now if you guys will excuse me I'm going to go have a beer.

 

Did you at least get the little covers so you don’t get pulled over?

 

Planning on Rally Racing your car? Please say yes!!!

 

Tequila does wonders for my wallet!

Those covers cost more than the lights themselves!

Funny you should say that. I saw a LS400 on the gram that built for rally and thought it was the coolest Lexus sedan build ever.

Also FIGS has a rally IS350