Coolant change necessary?

Hey all, so will coolant change color if it is degraded? I havent touched my factory coolant yet (110k) so I figure it's due, but the coolant in the overflow reservoir has never changed color. It's still a nice bright pink. Should I change the coolant anyway?

 

I would follow OEM recommendations (100k miles).

 

Ultimately, fluid breaks down with age,. As others have said, better to be safe than sorry. Flush your fluid and be happy.

-J

 

Thank you. Which coolant from walmart?

 

I have used this without any problems. Drain and fill.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/ZEREX-675130-Asian-Antifreeze-1-gal-RTU/144057949

 

I'm at almost 9 years and 85k miles and was wondering the same. Judging on the life of the original pink Toyota stuff I think I'll stick with it? All other fluids have been flushed including PS fluid with leftover Maxlife Trans fluid. Amazing performance from the Coolant.

 

I'll agree with what's been said. I use Valoline Zerex in all of the Toyotas in my family and have for years. It's basically identical to SLLC at half the cost. It's a silicate free P-HOAT formula

I replaced the coolant in my rig at 55k.

Walmart stocks it on the shelves in my area.

 

I replaced the coolant in my 2005 shortly after buying it. The Valvoline coolant works fine. For the price and minimal labor, it's worth the peace of mind.

 

I was either going to go with the valvoline zerex or the Zerex Asian.... but first full distilled water flush.

 

Anyone who knows how and doesn't mind explaining, how do you perform the distilled water flush? I'm interested in doing this soon and I'm overdue. I was just going to do a drain and replace but if I can do a flush and it isn't hard I'd prefer to do that. TIA!

 

You do not need to flush with distilled water. Drain it and refill.

 

Dad here. Please practice good clean environment and pet disposal habits when finished. Wait I didn't mean that exactly

 

I prefer the dealer route. Just so i don't have to dick with the disposal. But yes do it. Turns acidic and eats the engine from the inside

 

Yo comprendo, but some auto parts places(O'Reilley) accept used oil, coolant, brake fluid, power steering, transmission fluid, etc. - at least they do in my area.

The dealer isn't going to drain your block, just the radiator, but the qty. specified on your bill will lead you to believe that the coolant in the block and radiator were changed.

 

Even if you do a DAF on the radiator only...it's still very beneficial because it boosts the additive pack. Doing a yearly DAF will keep your cooling system healthy.

There's no need for a flush if you do it early and often.

Also...just because your coolant checks out as "good" with one of those silly testers really means nothing. All that tells is the coolants ability to resist freezing. It does not measure it's ability to resist corrosion. That anti corrosion pack is the 1st thing to break down in coolant

 

Some people do that - once year - doesn't take long. Whatever works for ya.

 

$13 and 30 minutes a year. No brainer for me

 

I also did not bother with a flush. Drain the radiator, drain the block, refill and run it.
First service is due at 100k, then every 50k thereafter. Anyone know why it's consistent with the intervals?

 

Here's a tip. The drain-cock can be awkward to get to by hand depending how it's turned.

A 22 mm socket will fit on it. Just be mindful when tightening it....as you can accidentally put a lot of unnecessary torque on it this way.

And be sure to check for leaks there once the system is up to temperature