Steering Judder: Rack? Inner or Outer Tie Rods? Ball Joints?

Seeking advice:

I'm experiencing judder in the steering of my recently acquired '04 3.4l TRD. It has 165K, and has the stock set up with original shocks. Service records indicate that the LBJs were replaced by the original owner under the recall program. The 2nd owner (I am the third) had an alignment done last year to correct the toe, but not before they wore down the insides of the tires.

The steering feels responsive, not overtly loose, and it corners fine (not super tight, but acceptable, assuming this will improve once I put on new tires). I experience the judder mainly when traveling over uneven road surface at slower speeds. Also, I feel a faint / dull click when turning the steering wheel back and forth when at a standstill.

I’m planning to replace the original shocks with 4600s, but now know I need to address something else, but not sure where to start.

I took it to mechanic A, who says I need a new rack (and I'm assuming inner / outer tie rods as well) pointing to some dampness on the inside of the driver's side rack boot. Mech A also wants to replace the shocks (front) with a pre-loaded moog assembly, not Bilsteins, saying the original springs have likely sagged and that's possibly why the prior owner had an alignment issue (he didn't say that was the reason, only that he didn't want to replace just the shock and discover he couldn't align it b/c of sagging springs).

I trust mechanic A, but after I priced out an OEM rack (w/ inner tie rods), and, I read in a thread here that the original TRD springs should be ok (visually, they look good, no rot), I decided to research further.

I took it to mechanic B, who says I needed new upper & lower ball joints and the shocks (they also want to go with the aftermarket moog pre-loaded assembly for the front). No rack. I never got a quote from mech A, but mech B wants $1k for the above (w/ moog parts, I assume).

I decided to take a look for myself. The outer tie rod boots on both sides are torn (see pics). I pulled the on the rack, and I didn't note any play. There is some dampness on the LHS rack boot, but it looks like the original boot clamp is missing, and someone replaced it with a zip tie, unlikely this is a good seal. Perhaps the inner tie rods have already been replaced at some point. I can't judge by visual inspection if the lower/upper BJs are ok or not.

An OEM rack and/or inner tie rods are pricey (a recent post said that 555 inner tie rods are a sound replacement for OEM). I use the truck 90% on road, not looking to lift it, just want to stay stock.

Looking for a good way to diagnose & address the judder without overspending.

Thanks for reading.

 

Loose balljoints or tie rods don't make the truck "shake". That's more than likely tires out of balance.

But I'd go ahead and replace the tie rods and balljoints (uppers and lowers). Buy the best BJs you can afford. If you can't quite stomach the $120+ each for OEM lower BJs, 555's from lowrangeoffroad are great, too, and about half the cost. I've run MOOG lower BJs too, and my truck didn't explode, contrary to what you might hear from some of the OEM-or-nothing crowd.

If you really need a rack, I suggest looking here. A reman'd with all new 555 tierods is like $580

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/toyo...04-toyota-tacoma-off-road-parts/steering.html

 

I should clarify, that I feel the judder (it's really almost like a knocking) right through the steering wheel; there's definitely play in there somewhere...

 

You for sure need outer tie rod ends and if you’re doing them you may as well do the inners as well. Pulling on the rack will only show play in the bushings that mount he rack to he frame. What you’re interested in is any play in the shaft inside the rack and judging by the dampness on the passenger side boot you probably have some play there that has worn the seal.

I assume your trusted mechanic checked for play in the BJs and didn’t find any or he would have mentioned them.

Pretty safe to assume your original shocks and springs are due for replacement but you were already on to that. Stock springs on my ‘04 are shot and sagging at 90K, I’m going to go with Monroe quick struts just to restore the ride height and not break the bank.

I would also hit the adjustment cams with some penetrating oil in preparation of the upcoming alignment.

 

At 165k visually or not, the springs are due for replacement. The Moog complete assy is a good value.
To check the tie rods, with the wheel on, and off the ground, shake the tire side-to-side. If you feel free play before the steering starts to move, that's a tie rod issue, have a second person look for what's moving while you shake it.
To check ball joints, this is easier done on the ground with a jack. Jack up the corner you're checking by the LCA, not the frame. Once the wheel is off the ground 2-3", use a pry bar under the tire and lift up. You're looking for free play. Like with the tie rods, have a second person check for where the movement is coming from.
Lastly, are you planning on lifting it?
My steering column judder went away when I put my Bilstein 6112s on it and went up 2", but I think it was the much better shocks (over stock) that fixed that.

And no need to buy parts "because a boot is torn"
No need to buy a rack "because it's seeping over here"
All normal. Wait till you seeing actual fluid loss before worrying about the rack. If your tie rods are loose, just do those and save yourself money.

 

Thanks MasterfulStu, I guess I might be a little too stuck on the whole Bilstein thing. are the moog preloaded struts/springs progressive like the OEM springs? Can I expect similar performance?

And, thanks for the diagnosis instructions. As Kevins60 pointed out, I'm pretty sure Mech A would have brought up the ball joints if they were not ok. However, I didn't mention this, Mech A only pulled it into the lift bay, while Mech B did a pretty thorough test drive. Anyway, I'll check for myself.

I am not planning to lift it.

With regard to the tie rods, I feel confident I can tackle that on my own. My concern was if the rack needs replacement, I'd rather do it all at once.

So the process I'm honing in on is:
- do the field tests,
- if just ball joints, proceed with upper/lower ball joints, shocks, alignment & new tires.
- if the tie rods are loose as well, replace inner & outer, and keep fingers crossed that rack will hold up for me.

 

Sound like you've now got a sound plan. Glad to help

 

Finally getting around to all this, field tests showed a little play in the LBJs, uppers appear solid.
Decided to proceed with LBJs, outer tie rods, and shocks. Going OEM for LBJs and tie rods, 4600s for shocks.
Jury still out on front coils, either the Moog 81104 or the OME 880, and just because I want this issue beaten to death for me too, which should I go with? Mostly on road use, not looking for much if any lift. However, I could occasionally be hauling a small trailer. Leaning towards saving the bucks and going with the Moog.