Door lock chirp malfunction

2018 TRD OR Double cab
So I had a PDR guy fix a dent in my rear pass. side door and he did a great job but unfortunately managed to severe 2/3 wires while putting a rod through the door grommet. I found the wires and soldered them back. It has been a while but I think I checked to see if they had any resting voltage and I believe they were not hot wires. No fuses blown... no fried relays. Now my truck doesn't chirp when I lock the doors and the parking lights don't flash. When unlocking them everything works correctly. Also when locking, I hear the actuators pulse a second time. All doors lock/unlock correctly, but no chirp only when locking. Dealer was a waste of time and only tell me that the computer was getting a can bus feedback. Their solution was to start part swapping to the tune of $1400, all of which would have to be ordered. My question is, has anyone had a similar malfunction and how was it resolved. I find it hard to believe the ECU is done after a couple wires were broken. It seems to me the problem would be isolated at the door lock actuator. It wouldn't bother me so much if I lost these indicators when unlocking but now I often question if I remembered to lock my doors after I walk away since there isn't any tones to remind me...

 

The truck won’t chirp when locking if it see’s a door open. The fronts use the plungers but are the rears built into the latch? I’d have to go outside and look but if they are part of the latch, then my guess is that’s your problem. The wire is color is pink for the door trigger.

The 3rd gen lock system is weird, there is a synchronization that must take place so if there is a problem with the actuator not working correctly then that could perhaps cause a problem. Perhaps that’s why you’re getting a double lock. I’m not sure if they use a detection wire for the actuator. If so that could also be something you want to look at.

Basically I would check continuity on all the wires. That would be the easiest move. A lot of the wires in newer vehicles are 18-22 gauge wires. Very thin. In some cases the insulation is stronger than the wire. So just because you don’t see an actual break or chaff doesn’t mean a wire isn’t broken

 

I was in there the other day and the actuator is built into the latch. Looks pretty simple to replace but I haven't ever been in the fronts yet to compare. I was planning to go back in there this weekend and take a closer look to see if I found all of the broken wires. And I agree, those wires are pretty weak. I found that the harness disconnects at the b-pillar before going into the truck so I'd really just like to try getting a new one from that point. Of course the dealer wouldn't warranty anything out and my warranty expires today so this one is coming out of pocket.

 

I meant the ajar (door trigger) wire being built into the latch as well. The front doors the ajar wire is a plunger in the pillar, however the rear doors it might be built into the actuator/latch

 

I see what you mean now, that gives me somewhere to start. I didn't really think about the ajar trigger being a malfunction. My head was stuck on the double-pulse locking and was thinking the guy bent some of the rods in the door, and then I saw all the latches are all cables and the actuator is on the door latch. I'm used to the old days when the door lock button popped up and down by the window.

Thanks for the suggestions... I'm gonna give it a gander as soon as sun comes back up.