Rear diff weep for the 3rd time

Same. I use ultra grey and burn it in after decontaminating both sides of the surfaces.

 

My truck with 15k miles in currently at Toyota to have them fix my leaky diff. This thread have me concerned it will reappear later.

 

Just pull the third and throw some right stuff in yourself. It doesn’t take much time and works great. It’ll be faster and easier in the end than fighting with a dealer.

Diff skids are useless and a money grab by aftermarket companies. The housing is tough and easily slides over rocks itself. The last thing you want to do is reduce the ground clearance on it. Some guys even grind the drain plug off and weld in a plate so it can’t hang up on rocks and/or loosen the drain plug.

 

I posted it as a reposnse to the OP as to what he can/should expect from a third trip to the dealer.

Since you have some experience...would there be a difference in your fix if the rust appeared before or after assembly?

 

keep taking it back until they get it fixed right, you've already had it fixed(not) under warranty so they are aware theres a reported issue and its obvious that the previous repairs weren't sufficiently done to stop the leak this ones on them until its fixed right I wouldn't attempt to try a homegrown fix on it cause it then becomes an issue of going over their heads and may effect any other driveline issues that need addressing down the road with any warranty work

 

Burn it in?

 

Yeah like rub it in. Get it in all the nooks and crannies create bond.

 

If done right with UB, there would be no rust either way.

If I encountered rust before I would make sure it was thoroughly removed before applying UB. Emery cloth it or even take a wire wheel to it depending on how severe it was. I might even apply some Rust Olem gel and then wire wheel it. Then I would make the mating surfaces oil free with some acetone before applying UB. Any imperfections or uneven surfaces is filled in by the UB and it bonds well to clean metals.

Afterwards, no moisture is going to get in there to cause rust after its sealed though I would repaint the whole axle anyways since I'm OCD to rust. I have a feeling Toyota assembles these components with some rust present, the rust shows up after the components are machined by the axle maker before assy at Toyota. Anyhow, that's just my unofficial guess.

 

Yep, on flat mating surfaces we were instructed to rub it in to create a bond. With clean fingers or nitrile gloves. Permatex is or was owned by Loc Tite Corp, and the reps would stop by once in awhile to give tips. I think I still have a plastic ruler they gave me, also gave us hats, samples etc.

 

What if it's a maching flaw or warped housing?

 

Then the permatex will work perfect

 

Just checked myself.
#6
https://www.permatex.com/ten-common-gasketing-mistakes/

 

We utilized #10 alot, would use UB instead of the factory pan gaskets and strip type rubber seals. Never had any leak issues if done right. And there were plenty of deep machine marks present.

 

Ultra Black is better for oil applications.

Copper is probably the all around best at everything.

 

I don't recall Ultra Black being around back then. I was a mechanic from about 88 to 02. We used copper too, though some mechanics felt it did not hold up as well for filling in big gaps. I'm talking replacing 1/4" groove seals here with UB.

Would be the pan, #7 & #8 in this image

 

Yep, Ultra black lists differentials so this might be even better:

https://www.permatex.com/products/g...mum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker/

I don't get why the dealerships are getting comebacks on this issue. It's not rocket science at all, very basic stuff.

 

I’ve used ultra black and the grey. Both worked well

 

Sure enough, seeing this earlier today made me want to take a look at mine.. I had the gasket replaced at 25k when it started weeping a good bit, then at 45k it started weeping again - this time a bit more, replaced gasket and retightened. At almost 54k now and the weeping is just starting but it’s there without a doubt. How many times do we have to take these in before they replace these diffs with recurring issues. I know that a weeping diff isn’t the end of the world but I do find it nuts to believe I’ll just have to live with needing to get it serviced (soon to be at my expense).

 

I thought it was always around, but I could be wrong. Never worked professionally on cars, but I turned alot of wrenches on them. I provide technical leadership on some gas and steam turbines..... guess what we use to seal the bearing housings with?

 

Honestly, if it's bad enough that Ultra Black won't seal it, you have a problem.