3rd Gen HID vs LED vs Halogen H11 projector headlights

I decided to do some tab trimming and toss the Phillips H9’s back in the truck since were getting darkness again. Why? I’ve posted before that I felt that the GE +130 bulbs were superior because I perceive that they gave crisp clean projection compared to the H9’s more “fuzzy” lights despite the H9’s measured higher output and on paper having the same filament orientation.

With the top tab trimmed, the h9’s lock fully in place just like the stock h11 bulbs. With the tabs trimmed now those bulbs lock fully in place whereas before they were canted about 15°. I’m excited to see if it makes a difference as I suspect it will. Since I had the Dremel out anyway I also trimmed the connector tab so I didn’t have to use the wiring adapters. If they work out the way I suspect they will I’ll just order a second set of H9’s for $14 and have them trimmed and ready to go in the glove box. The GE’s will go in my wife’s CRV.

 

This may be a silly question, but even though halogen bulbs emit light 360°, does the orientation of the base have any standard placement?

Seems like many of the LED drop-ins claim performance is best when the LEDs are oriented in the 3 & 9 positions.

 

Yes, they should be at 3 & 9 to illuminate the housing properly for uniform light output, which is why it should be built into the design of the product and not something that is freehand adjustable like some manufactures like to promote. Note that in a low beam projector, anything below the 3 & 9 o’clock plane will be blocked by the projectors internal light shield, so that you will get significantly reduced output.

 

Ok, but if you install these in any vehicle, will the LEDs always be in the proper position? I thought many were adjustable to accommodate a wide variety of housings.

 

Yes, they will always be in the proper position. The halogen tab alignment is standardized and a properly designed LED will utilize the same standardized halogen tabs in the LED body (like a halogen bulb), thus making the orientation always correct. Optics are high precision, it is not something that should be free-hand adjusted. The 'adjustable' lights is just another example of garbage feed to you by LED companies that lack optics expertise.

 

No rain out tonight. The above post covering Sylvania LEDs has been updated with distance projection test results. I've also copied the post to post #3 in the thread covering additional LED testing since the original post.

 

You still have to trim the metal tab, correct?

 

I'm going to do the H11 to H9 mod today. Is there a big difference in the heat produced between the two bulbs?

 

Ideally yes. They’ll fit but not lot all the way in place.

Not enough to matter or melt anything.

 

Metal tab trimming is not required with the Philips bulbs. They are a tighter fit, but they will fit without modification.

Your looking at about an 30% increase in wattage, as the Philips bulbs actually run at the legal max of 74w, which is part of the reason why they perform so well. It is hotter as mentioned but not enough for concern.

 

Thanks guys! So, even with extended run times, heat shouldn't be an issue? I make frequent night time (low beam) trips where I'd be running them for about 6 hours at a stretch.

 

Wont be a problem. Keep in mind they are the exact same bulbs the stock high beams use.

 

Maybe this has been posted already, but Crash gets a shout out in this thread...

https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/fo...ram-nightbreaker-laser-vs-standard-h11-and-h9

 

I run the 12000 LM hakari ultras. They dont project as far, but the beam is exactly the same shape and pattern with no scatter. But it's a much better color for actually seeing shit like deer.

 

Thanks TON for the in-depth research and performance testing!

You may have covered this already, but which LED bulbs would get your money right now?

Better yet, what bulb (halogen, LED) best match the color and brightness of the Pros rigid fogs?

 

^^ be nice to the new guy, fellas.

 

you takin about me? If so, and your have an answer to the question I am asking, please point me in that direction.

 

H11 Hikari ultra with Philips LEDs is the best performing drop in unit I’ve tested in a 3rd Gen projector. The specs are way over inflated and lie, and they are easily beat by performance halogen products, but if you had to have a replacement LED, that is what I would recommend. Swapping to a full replacement LED assembly like the Morimoto headlights will perform significantly better.

 

Thanks bud. What is the best light to patch the color and temp of the Pros Rigid fogs?

And do you have a Paypal people can donate to in order to help offset some of your expenses?

 

The Rigid Pro fogs measure about 5900k at their peak intensity. The OEM version has color transition from cool at the top of the beam to warmer at the bottom, so they don’t have a single color temp like the aftermarket Rigid’s or most other LED fogs. You can find a ton of fog info in my LED fog thread:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-led-sae-j583-fog-pod-fog-light-review.554813/

The Hikaris are about 6600k, so they are a little cooler in temp, but I wouldn’t let that prevent you from not using them if set on drop in LEDs as I would favor performance over color. Alternatively Diode Dynamics is pretty close at near 5700k, but they do not perform as well as the Hikaris in the 3rd Gen projector.