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Reverse Bleeding issues...

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by the sQuirrel, Sep 23, 2019.

  1. Sep 23, 2019 at 10:25 AM
    #1
    the sQuirrel

    the sQuirrel [OP] Active Member

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    026E9F55-5ECA-4537-A902-1AC48F0B1E0F.jpg
    after bleeding, pedal is spongy.

    oKay. i’M admitting i’M clueless and read a lot here and have seen bleeding techniques/ instructional bits here.

    i purchased the phoenix reverse brake bleeder and started from furthest to closest.

    system is now showing clear fluid.
    i started tho because i’M trying to be a home mechanic. 20 years a shop has done the work. however, time now allows me to tinker.

    i purchased new rotors and calipers. hence the set up and new Makita Impact Wrench:) -fyi, the ryobi impact is no good... it is something a 3 year old would play with. no power.

    i’d like to get this done without having to call my mechanic to the rescue and there is an overload of info here but nothing on the bleed system i have.

    any help is appreciated 026E9F55-5ECA-4537-A902-1AC48F0B1E0F.jpg

    ...and yes, i will not use jack stands or floor jack this way aGain. i ordered the appropriate tools this morning.

    7816BB46-EE71-4609-A860-413A34BEF5B1.jpg
     
    cruiserguy likes this.
  2. Sep 23, 2019 at 11:08 AM
    #2
    Black DOG Lila

    Black DOG Lila Well-Known Member

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    I use a 22" long 3/16 ID clear flexible hose attached to bleeder valve at top draining into a quart jar at bottom with 1" of brake fluid in it to start. Remove the bleeder cover and push the hose on, put the other end into jar with 1" of fluid, open bleeder and hand pump brake pedal. Engine and key off. Keep the resevoir topped up. RR LR RF LF Brake proportioning valve last but you will need to elevate the jar for BPV.
     
  3. Sep 23, 2019 at 11:10 AM
    #3
    PCTaco

    PCTaco 36 hour Build

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    That's how grandpa did it, that's how dad did it, that's how i do it. No need for fancy tools.

    Edit: OP, please just buy 6ton jack stands.. those concrete blocks give me the creeps. If you need your jack to go higher, it's usually better to put something on top of the lifting point, not under the jack.
     
  4. Sep 23, 2019 at 11:13 AM
    #4
    koditten

    koditten Well-Known Member

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    I'm wondering if you have a bad master cylinder. Do you hear any squishing/vacuum type noise when pump the brake pedal?
     
    cruiserguy and the sQuirrel[OP] like this.
  5. Sep 23, 2019 at 11:17 AM
    #5
    eon_blue

    eon_blue Okayest Member

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    seriously, holy shit that photo makes me anxious

    6 ton Pittsburgh stands from Harbor Freight are cheap and work great. And a chunk of wood on the floor jack head is a lot less sketchy than putting blocks under the floor jack.
     
  6. Sep 23, 2019 at 11:33 AM
    #6
    Black DOG Lila

    Black DOG Lila Well-Known Member

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    One important detail when bleeding the brake proportioning valve the rear tires must be on the ground carrying the vehicle weight. Tacomas have LSPV load sensing proportioning valve.
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2019
  7. Sep 23, 2019 at 12:08 PM
    #7
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    It is also possible OP has dirt on one of the flared connections.

    Did you not get instructions with your brake bleeder ??

    On most I have seen you still need to open and close the bleeder when it is under pressure .

    Your not running the Master Cylinder to low on fluid ?

    Since I work odd hours it is easier to use a bleeder of some sort.

    Please throw those cinder blocks away !!!

    Those can just crush if you look at them wrong!!!!!
     
    the sQuirrel[OP] and koditten like this.
  8. Sep 23, 2019 at 12:56 PM
    #8
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    Once you get your 6 ton jack stands, turn them 90 degrees from the way you have them in your pics. The arm of the jack stand should "cradle" the frame, not like you have here.

    You might also try a power bleeder. There are kits on Amazon etc that have a pressurized reservoir that pushes the fluid thru the system, rather than having to pump it out with the pedal.
     
    Minimag95 and the sQuirrel[OP] like this.
  9. Sep 23, 2019 at 1:04 PM
    #9
    mwrohde

    mwrohde Well-Known Member

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    My only change to this would be if the truck has ABS. On those, LF is further than RF. The lines go from the master cylinder, over to the ABS pump. From the ABS pump there's a line that drops straight down to the RF wheel, making it the shortest run. The LF has to come back across the firewall and down, making it 2nd shortest.
     
  10. Oct 7, 2019 at 9:26 AM
    #10
    the sQuirrel

    the sQuirrel [OP] Active Member

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    THANK YOU everyone....!

    - i did get REAL jack stands and also a taller jack...

    i also just posted a request for a NEW MASTER CYLINDER. i am not sure what brand to go with.
    Seriously, thank you all for safety suggestions on lift points and proper cradle suggestions.

    @koditten, your inquiry regarding the Master is pretty much suspect and exactly what i suspected based on previous posts here from other users. any suggestions on a replacement?
     
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  11. Oct 7, 2019 at 9:36 AM
    #11
    the sQuirrel

    the sQuirrel [OP] Active Member

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    and... @jbrandt, i ordered a power bleeder.
    @mwrohde ... im glad to know the sequence now:) thank you.
     
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  12. Oct 7, 2019 at 9:50 AM
    #12
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Nice work, love to see that you're willing to jump in and do it and learn no matter what. And having the right/good tools makes all the difference in the world.
    If you know for sure you've got all the air out of the brake lines and zero leaks than the next suspect could be the master cylinder. When you press the brake pedal firmly to stop, what happens? As descriptive as you can make it lol really it helps us, so many different ways different people can describe the same thing in very different ways:D
     

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