UPDATED - Now with Twin cases and triple sticks "El Taco Diablo" 4x4 swap and B.S.

Not sure you can do manual hubs with 2nd gen. That's a question for @foxrcing07

FYI... some people say the manual hubs are weaker. But I think the price is worth it to not be spinning the CVs and wrecking boots because they are spinning for no reason when I'm driving down the highway.

 

I saw this thread for 2nd gens a while back.

I have a slice in my CVJ high angle boot already from road debris. But the beautiful part is they aren’t spinning. So they aren’t tossing grease everywhere while I wait for a good time to repair.

 

Imo the hubs being slightly weaker can be a good thing, too. I’d much rather bust a hub on the trail than a CV axle since I can much more easily disconnect and replace a hub in a pinch

 

The CV axle is the thing that is weaker with manual hubs. The diameter of the axle shaft is slightly smaller on the manual hub CVs.

 

Yes you can do manual hubs I have a kit I bought to do it that I didn’t use

 

Ah I see what you mean.

But still, the manual hub axles might be weaker than ADD axles, but it still seems as if the hub engagement ring would bust before the force could be transferred to the axle. I could be wrong but it definitely seems that way.

 

This is great! I'll likely be bugging you as I start the DC. Can't wait to get it 4WD. Nice work!

 

Hit me up any time man... I don't know much, but I know a bunch of people that do know shit

 

Starting my reading... thx for documenting your project bud.

 

Meh, that's probably just like people saying the 8" diff is weaker than the 8.4" diff when they're actually the same ring gear anyway.

Even if one is technically weaker than the other, I don't really hear about anyone breaking hubs left and right (add or manual hubs). Manuals are easier to replace on the trail, though.

Seems like the main reasons people end up doing the manual hubs with the 1st gen swaps is just because it's easier. There's more wiring to do for the ADD swap.

 

Figured I would add a bit of additional information here.

During my 4x swap my intention was to replace the input and output seals on the Transfer Case before I installed it. My local Toyota Dealership didn't do me any favors when I went to them to order the seals. They got me duplicates of one of the seals and the other seal they gave me was wrong all together. So, I decided to roll the dice and just go with the Tcase as is, and install it.

Since the swap, my Tcase has started seeping oil. I'm not 100% sure if it's the seals or if it's the fact that I didn't allow the gasket sealer to cure enough before I torqued the case back together (when I had it apart to do the work to install the twin sticks).

Since the gasket sealer is a question, I'm going to have to pull the Tcase to re-seal it. If I'm going to have to pull the Tcase, I'm going to go ahead and replace all the input and output seals. I sat down yesterday and figured out which seals I'm going to need... and was able to actually find the part numbers.

https://youtu.be/8YuY6rv1hkE
Here's a good video from @Timmah! that gives a bit of info about what's involved in one of these seals.

Here's the parts diagram I went off of.



Here is the page I got the parts numbers off of. This page allows you to go to the parts diagram and click on the part you need. When you click on the part, it takes you down to the part number. You can add the part to your cart and order it from this page.
https://parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_1...SFER-CASE--EXTENSION-HOUSING/674460-3609.html


I found McGeorge Toyota was cheaper though. So I'll be ordering from them.
https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/

Parts numbers are as follows
Input seal = 36102J - Part Number 90311-40007
Front output seal = 36111B - Part Number 90311-41012
Front shaft seal = 33309D - Part Number 90312-23001
Front stake nut = 36104D - Part Number 90179-22016
Rear output seal = 36115C - Part Number 90311-41007 (Replaced by 90311-41020)
Rear shaft seal = 33309D - Part Number 90312-23001
Rear stake nut = 36104D - Part Number 90179-22016

 

Just be warned McGeorge takes their time to process an order and ship it. Im only 200 miles away from them and it still took over a week to get my stuff.

 

I've ordered from them and Olathe before... Never had a problem. But thanks for the FYI.

I'm not planning on taking anything apart until the parts come in... and not really excited about doing it either lol. So, whenever the parts arrive is cool with me.

As long as I can get the parts and get them installed before the snow melts

 

Just got an email notification they shipped out today.

 

Must say I'm pretty impressed with McGeorge Toyota right now. All the seals for the transfer case showed up this morning. They were tracking to arrive on Monday.


Just ordered the seals Wednesday afternoon.

 

Found the leak on my T-case. Turns out the seals etc are fine. The base of the shifters is where the leak was coming from. I removed the shifters and resealed them. While I was in there I reshaped the shifters to make them fit in the bezel opening.

Here's what the shifters looked like before.

Resealing the shifter base. Also replaced the stock bolts with stainless steel allen socket bolts. (Those bolts are too close to the shifter base, making it a pain in the ass to get a wrench on them) Also, the new bolts are 10mm longer than stock to make up the difference in thickness between the twin stick base and the J-shifter base)



Here's what the shifters ended up looking like with the new boot on them.
​

 

Awe shit good to see you back!

 

Not really back... Really just here to update my threads so I can keep track of my shit.

 

Anyways good to see the return to TW