TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Yes those are them! Time-Serts. Thank you. Good to know the Helicoils hold up too. I'll probably just do that then.

 

I do.

 

Affirmative.

Time-sert

I believe they’re standard M6 (6x1.0) in the intercooler lid. Someone double check me on that though.

 

Correct

 

The bad gas mileage is a result of the ucon not working correctly with your wraf sensors. The boost leak has everything to do with power and nothing to do with gas mileage. You must still run the 455s then I would remove the ucon and experiment without it. And use the TRD tune with a proper size pulley for high elevation. I bet your wrafs are fine and those pesky codes will disappear. I have more experience using the ucon than most on here believe that. And seems like this conversation has come up before multiple times about your truck not running right with similar symptoms.

And yes, if you see oil debris rising up from the stripped bolts than you definitely have a leak there. So yes helicoils. Are you sure your bypass valve is working correctly? You should get a catch can. So what size pulley are you running?

If you are towing all the time In high elevation I don’t think a tacoma is the best option. Just saying

 

You sound like me. Lol

 

Yeah I have the 455's and a 2.85. I ran with the TRD tune for about 6 years and it is was just super super super rich so that is why I went with the UCON. To get the AFR's back where they should be. Because it learns, so it is advertised. Yes, I need a catch can very bad. My truck has never ran right, that I think. I have never had the boost numbers of others. And even other s/c trucks that I have driven seem to have a ton of low end power and I have to work to keep the tires from spinning on a quick launch. My truck with the 4.88's still won't spin the tires if I straight up stab the throttle. Okay, maybe a tiny little squeak. But it is faster than alot of other vehicles in Mexico so I figured it had to be running half decent. But old '98 taco on 35's with 4.88's that was supercharged felt much faster than this truck. And the reasoning for using this truck to tow my camper is because once I get to my destination, I want the smaller truck. I know it isn't the ideal truck to tow with so there is a compromise there. I will be getting a larger tow vehicle for most of the tow duties hopefully in the near future. Cause I really only need the tacoma during hunting season. The other times it is fun to have a truck that I can take out and use and keep up with others on their sxs but not a needed form of entertainment. I go camping to forget about everything and sit around a campfire, relax, play cornhole, and drink. Don't mind the getting wood and splitting it and all that stuff, but I don't have to other toys to go play with and stay busy while camping.

But why do you say the UCON not working with the WRAF sensors. I even bought new ones when I installed the UCON. Also, is it common that the UCON gives you bad mpg's? If it makes the engine run more efficiently it should get better mpg? No? The code I keep getting is P0101 which is for MAF isn't is? I got that one before the UCON also. And I have even replaced it and got it again the next week. Gadget says I keep getting it because of the snorkel and that I need to make sure my scoop is pointed backwords to not create turbulence. I can say that I did do that for a good portion of the summer and I never got the light. But then I sealed the snorkel off to AFE because I lost my fender liner and I turned it back around. Then I didn't have enough airflow so I opened the lid of the AFE with some diff drop skid plate spacers. Now I am getting the code again. Not sure I believe the turbulence thing since the lid is open and would let any extra pressure escape. I don't know what to think with this truck. Anyone want a project? LOL

 

My snorkel is facing forward like it’s suppose to and I have never gotten that code with a UCON. Only code I have gotten has been p2241 and that was finally fixed with a new o2 sensor. I get about 14-15 mpgs daily driving and around 17 cruising along highway on 35s and 4.56 gears

 

@mr.trd I’m not going down the rabbit hole why. You just need to simplify. When your wrafs are not communicating with the ucon correctly the MPGs go way down and the engine just doesn’t run right. Wrafs are simple pieces of equipment and the ucon is not. So take the ucon out and experiment. A 2.85 pulley at 5k is maybe 3/4 psi max with stock manifolds and ypipe. Get the quick change pulley and put on the 2.5 already. That will bump you up around 6 lbs and at least lean you out enough for the TRD tune. But you also have to ditch the snorkel and get something like a ram air scoop or K&N style intake. You need more air intake for the TRD tune to work correctly/better at high elevation!

 

This is pretty much exactly the same for me.. Setup and Results.

@mr.trd I've never had issues with my snorkel setup. Scoop is forward facing and I'm running it into the stock airbox (with a K&N). Running a 2.6" with the TRD tune, and its still rich AF (AEM maxed at 10.0). I've driven from 1200 feet here in Phoenix Az, to 13,000 feet up the Colorado passes, and never had an issue. I average about 15-16 mpg's fully loaded on road trips (33's and 4.56's). actually.. I average about 15-16 regardless. unless I'm wheeling..

ditch the UCONN and go from there.

 

Fix cap, and test bypass valve. Those other thingamigiggy things they said too.

 

I have never thought of going to the 2.5 or 2.6 because of the fact that I would have to get bigger injectors and I am just not ready for that one yet. I will experiment with the Ucon and unplugging it but I am sure it will run like it used to. Way to rich. Like it smells like fuel if you drive behind me and I am on the throttle and you can see blue-ish smoke coming from the exhaust. LOL As for the snorkel, I am just going to have to find a way around it like I am doing now. Snorkel is sealed to the AFE box so I keep the dirt out but have the plug and lid opened up so I get warm air from the engine bay. Or maybe just remove the lid. I did go back to the AFE cone filter and removed the Donaldson filter. But I really liked it knowing I wasn't going to be sucking in dirt. Time for a tow rig and a play toy I think.

And you say that a 2.85 is only good for 3/4 psi? I am at 4400 ft and I keep seeing guys in SLC with a similar setup running 6/7 psi. SLC is 4400 ft also. But you all know what your talking about. If I don't need to worry about it, I guess I can try not to. It is hard though. My old taco had a 9.5 psi pulley on it and I got 8.5 psi. Just sucks seeing such low numbers. LOL

 

I am on the 2.85 pulley and regularly drive between 4000 and 7000 feet. I hit 5 PSI consistently and sometimes hit 6. I do have a full exhaust though and a slightly less restrictive snorkel.

 

Not necessarily. Don't forget to factor-in that boost pressure is inversely related to your elevation. For example, I migrated from OEM 3.0" to Smoothflow 2.7" (6+ psi of boost @ WOT, despite 6K+ ft of elevation where I live/drive) and, now, to Smoothflow 2.5" (7+ psi @ WOT). Both run fine with the "standard" TRD injectors that came with my S/C. (Obviously, running at sea level would produce different results and have correspondingly different fuel requirements.)

At your elevation, a 2.7" should get you ~7+ psi of boost, while a 2.5" should be good for ~8+ psi. If my experience is any indication, you should be able to run a 2.7" with no problem.

 

Well I have decided that I am going to use the Heli-Coil kit mainly because the inserts are stainless steel, they come with 12 of them, I can have them today for 1/3 of the price of the Time-Sert, and they are only spec'ed to be be torqued to 9 ft-lbs. Oh and yes, they are

$9 M6-1.0 M6 Black Acorn Cap Nuts, Stainless Steel 304 (18-8) Black Coating Acorn Nuts, 20Pcs-Pack

M6-1.0 x15mm bolts.

@TRON did you need to get a bottoming out tap to thread to the bottom of the hole or just use the tap that came with the kit?

 

Those numbers are right inline with what @OVTune has made with their kit. Bravo OVTune. Going to have to raise that bar on them now.

 

And that is exactly what my Toyota FTS has been telling me is in the works. Other than it having a 3rd option. He was told the Tundra was being cut down to the 3.5 TT and the 3.5 TT Hybrid only. We will see.

 

I’ll wait till you guys jump ship to 3rd gen. Can’t wait to see the first to get this OEM engine set up/tune in a 3rd gen taco.

 

Curious if that engine internals are equal to the 3rd Gen?