12V always on mod?

Guys, I hate to do this, but I saw a thread on here with a fairly simple way to make the power outlets in the cab stay on with the ignition off. I think just by blocking a circuit with something non conductive?

Anyway, I've searched and I've searched and can only seem to find the first gen equivalent... can someone point me to that thread?

 

The simple way is to find the power outlet relay and have the contacts engaged all the time by using a small piece of shrink wrap. The relay is under the steering wheel column. Not too much of a hassle to get to all of it.

 

if you want to do this... just pull the relay. and take a short piece of like 14awg wire and two blade connectors to make a jumper in the fuse block between the two main power wires that the relay switches. Easier than pulling a relay apart, you dont mess up a relay and its easily reversible.

 

I did the relay mod, it is reversible. As long as you dont break the relay taking it apart.

I simple opened the relay, and stuck some pieces of ziptie under one side so it is always engaged.

It was very easy.

Then I almost burnt my truck down, leaving a 12v USB dual socket thing in one of the 12v sockets in the cab.

The USB thing shorted out and killed my battery. I found the problem one day when I was desperately trying to figure out why no matter what I did my batter was dead.


These devices are not meant to be powered 24/7 and I just left it in the socket. I noticed the blue light was not on when I looked at. I went to pull it out and it almost burnt my fingers it was so hot.

 

I just looked and cant for the life of me find that frigging thread.. But yeah its a real easy mod. Just need to find the correct relay, its one of the smaller blue ones on the back side of the panel in the cabin, near your left knee. 2 small flat screwdrivers pop it open really easy. Jam a small piece of something plastic in there to hold the contacts together and you're done. Zipties of different sizes should do the trick, just find a piece thats the right thickness

First time I did, it came loose after a few months

 

like stated, do it right... remove the relay and create a proper jumper.

 

Always on power outlet relay - *modified*

 

Yup thats one of them, dont think that one show the diagram / location of the relay though

 

These posts from the thread are pretty descriptive...

 

That's exactly what I did in my first gen to keep the outlets hot all the time. I thought that didn't work on second gen's? Am I wrong? Shoot, if it works I could just reuse the same jumper from my old truck.

 

Wait, I think I just got this through my thick head. So, you're saying to take out the relay under the dash by your left knee completely? (Thereby breaking the circuit). Then put the jumper in the fuse block to re-complete the circuit, but hot all the time? Sorry if I'm being dense. I'm pretty handy, but circuits have always confused me a little.

Edited to add, you know what, I do remember removing the relay from the first gen. Ok, I think I'm starting to get this. So, I would take that jumper and put it in in place of the relay, right?

 

Yeah I think he is saying use a piece of wire to complete the circuit between the correct 2 contact 'prongs'. Personally Id stay away from this method just because it might cause issues down the road, imo. Should that wire pop loose and happen to short out on something.. Modifying the relay is only slightly harder, but its fully self contained. Should anything go wrong, it will do so under the plastic relay cover. Also, that relay was spec'd by Toyota, so you know the fuse will pop before the relay melts

 

Correct. no messing with a perfectly good relay. Similar to my fog light mod (link below) but instead of extending each leg of the relay, you simply make a jumper to take the relay completely out of the equation.

 

I added a blue sea fuse box for all my stuff. For my power out let’s in the cab I also ran a switch so I can turn off and on power. The Blue sea box is connected To the battery but so anything that u have to that will always have power even when the truck is off. The only reason I put the switch is because the plugs are for the back seat and if my kids are no using it, no point of having power to it.

 

That's not correct, the relay contacts are rated for alot higher than the fuse that is upstream. The fuse is there to protect the wire in case of a short or to prevent the wire from overheating and getting damaged due to an overcurrent condition. Jumpering the 'a' contact on the relay will be the best, most reliable way to get 12V "all the time" while being able to reverse back to stock at no cost.

 

Wait. Isnt that what I said? The fuse will go before the relay will.. As designed

 

Perhaps I misread your post. Yes the fuse should be the first to pop before

 

@Norton , using the directions you pointed me to and @nd4spdbh , using a jumper like you suggested, I hacked the truck today. It was a pain taking the lower dash apart but the results are worth it. Thanks guys!