TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I was going to say before my previous comment that you put in all that work and still only got 300HP out of it.

You shouldn't have a very hard time selling it. A V8 Ranger is pretty awesome in itself.

 

300 HP with 306 cubic inches of displacement, normally aspirated seems reasonable me. And, it only added 100 lbs to the front springs/axle.

I must not be advertising in the right places - I haven't much interest in it.

 

Craigslist, OfferUp, Letgo, Autotrader are all fantastic places to advertise it.

Of course the price greatly influences how much traffic you will get for it as well.

 

So I went for a drive in a customers s/c 15 tacoma with the technician to get a baseline of how it runs before we install cam gears and few other maintenance items. He has the factory pulley and the AFE Momentum intake with scoop, full spec.U equal length exhaust, URD thermostat and a 70mm throttlebody. We put a mechanical boost gauge on it to see what boost levels he is running so that after we pull it apart and it is back together we can verify he has the same boost levels and no leaks. I can now verify that I have had a boost leak on mine since the day I installed it, because he is getting 5lbs of boost and at a much lower rpm. Mine hangs between vacuum and boost for a very long time, his does not. And yes, he knows we drove it. He doesn't have a boost gauge so he was interested to know what boost he is pushing. I am going to check/adjust his bypass valve while it off also. But all of this tells me, I have had a leak for a very long time. So this weekend, mine is coming off and everything is getting resealed. I am also going to use the mechanical gauge to check the accuracy of my gauge. But his truck pulls much harder than my truck, and I drove it very nice. He does not have oversized tires and the only extra weight is a shell but it just felt like more boost period. Almost like the only reason my truck has any pep to it at all is because of the 4.88's. We will see after it has been gone through this weekend. Fingers crossed.

 

Things are happening.

 

The aluminum on these blowers are malleable and soft so I could see how overtorquing the bolts on the lid would pull the threads in short order.

You want my advice? Pull the lid, tap all the threads which are even just a little questionable, reseal the lid and call it a day, I get the feeling that you will be finding some much needed (from the sounds of it) lost boost you never previously had before.

I pulled the threads on my brand new Roush tensioner on accident like they were made of frosting because I didn't realize I was bottomed out on the pulley and the bolt was not long enough to foot the bill. I drilled and retapped the threads then helicoiled them.. oh boy that bolt has some serious holding power on those new threads now.

It's common to pull threads on aluminum, I'd probably say that is it's biggest fallacy, a small price to pay for some of the best heat dissipation and excellent heat transfer properties.

 

Pop hood, look at bypass valve lever while truck off, have friend start truck and watch bypass valve lever. It should copen very quickly. Have friend rev quickly. Valve should close and open since boost is momentary revving in park.
That will at least tell you if your bypass valve is operating correctly.
@12TRDTacoma found long ago that the vacuum line to the bypass valve are not always tight so a hose clamp adds extra reassurance.

 

For some reason it seems like the blowers on these things have oddball sized outlets for the hoses so normal sizes need to be forced on there. Not necessarily a bad thing when trying to ensure proper sealing, but when trying to pull them off, that's when that small detail rears its ugly head.

I ran a totally new hose from the boost port to the manifold when I found mine to be loose.

If you have a vacuum gauge @mr.trd you can apply vacuum to one end of the valve while you have your finger on the other end and upon release you should feel vcuum release. Reverse the test from one end to the other and it should hold as well. If there is a leak down of any sort or if you do not feel any suction that is not normal, your bypass valve is defective and will require replacement.

 

Engine is already out, might better do the stoker now! So what are ya doing? why did you have it pulled?

 

Bent valve. Or something. Figured I would pull it. Would be easier working on motor. And thinking ls swap. I dunno. Got nothing but time.

 

LS swap? If you do, LS2 or LS3 with a TVS2300 or TVS2650 supercharger and an Over The Radiator (OTR) style intake.

 

I was just thinking gto swap. Ls2 with t56. And stand alone from Holley.

 

@Sacrifice your GTO experience is needed.

That sounds pretty legitimate actually. Easy swap too.

 

i had a variety of filters so far. it was brought to my attention toyota filters are some of the best at filtering small particulates. for the money theyre great. sure does look cool to have a royal purple one, and they work great. but ill stick with what is cheap and tested.

 

I have pack of 12 Helicoils on hand and was planning on doing all 12. Also have a new intake manifold surge gasket I will put on and add hose clamps to all vacuum lines associated with the boost system. Depending on the look of the rubber might be replacing lines themselves. Thank you guys! I am really looking forward to see what comes of this. If nothing, the Camry is getting boosted and will become the fun vehicle! LOL

 

What size helicoils does it use? Or better yet, which kit did you end up going with?

 

$37 5546-6 M6 x 1 Metric Coarse Thread Repair Kit

5546-6 M6x1

 

Thanks for posting up brother. I just ordered some as i have 2 or 3 on my intercooler lid that also need fixing. Hope these fix your issues, sounds like you're in need of more boost!

 

To continue the clutch talk, I'm leaning towards the SPEC 3+, as suggested here. Any of y'all running a lighter flywheel? Is it worth it?

 

Im running a URD lightweight steel flywheel and i love it. A little more free revving, but very streetable. I am running stock tires and 4.10 gears so your results may vary a little if you have bigger tires

And to directly answer your question.. Every little bit helps imo! i'd buy it again if i hadnt found the fidanza one