Body Mount Bushing Install - now with pictures! And a video too!!!

I want to thank both of you for your advice, I got a mechanics stethoscope and found the noise isn't coming from the radiator mount bushings at all. It actually seems to be coming from my lower control arm/shock area.

Got a questions for you guys, I'm trying to pinpoint exactly what is the cause of this squeak, using the stethoscope would a 'higher pitched' squeak vs a 'lower pitched' squeak be evident of the source? Both the lower control arm and the shock (aftermarket Kings) give off the same volume (loud) of squeak, however the shock produces it at a noticeably higher pitched level. Thoughts?

 

as sound travels through materials, generally speaking the lower pitch. Disconnect the shock and inspect all your contact surfaces. you might have a slightly bent something causing uneven wear and or binding under the right condition.

 

@Pigpen sorry if you already went over this. I looked though this thread and didn't see it but might have missed it. How did you replace the front cab body mount?

 

Could you clarify what part of the installation are you asking about? At a high level, the process is to loosen all bolts, disconnect any wire that are in the way (ABS sensors), then remove all bolts from one side, jack up the body, remove old mounts, insert new mounts, lower cab, re-install bolts on that side, but do not tighten. Repeat for other side. Then tighten everything.

When you say front cab mounts, I assume you're referring to the ones at the front of the cab versus the ones at the radiator, correct? Happy to help...just need clarification on what exactly you're asking.

 

@Littles
Yes you are correct, the ones at the front of the cab. I was just curious how you remove the bushing but after some thought, it seems like you simply unbolt the bushing and jack the body up and slide the old bushing out from between the frame and body. Right?

 

Correct. There are two bolts holding on each of the bushings in what is basically a cup that sits inside the body mount. I recommend a little PB blaster and some heat on those bolts, and maybe give it a tap with a hammer from underneath if you can to help break the rust loose. I snapped the head off one of mine because I didn't take the time to PB blaster it. It's a tough spot to get a good angle but the double crescent wrench trick worked for me to get leverage.

You will have to jack up the body high enough to lift the cup out of the body mount...probably a good 3-4 inches. then drop the new one in and bolt it down. Just pay attention to your ABS sensor wires that are running down the by the UCA to make sure there is enough slack there as you are jacking up the body. You can always disconnect them if needed.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ok-so-here-we-go.486087/

This is the link I used when doing mine. It's 1st gen, however I imagine the rules are the same....

 

Is there any way to test a cab mount? I have a loud thud from the front right when I hit larger bumps and I thought it was something with the suspension....but it cant be. I have replaced literally everything you can think of. UCA, LCA, Ball joints, tried 3 different coil overs, brakes, cam bolts, all bushings, literally everything. So I think it may be my front right cab mount now but idk how to test it. I cant remake the sound my jumping up and down on my front bumper. Only by driving

 

have you checked motor/trans. mounts? more specifically, when does the sound happen? bumps? stopping/starting from a light? certain speeds?

 

You can look from the bottom of the cab mount and possibly tell if the rubber looks dried and cracked around the bolt. That would NOT be a definitive way of knowing that the thud you're hearing is coming from the cab mount even if they are on their way out. Could you have someone stand outside the vehicle and listen while you try to re-create the sound?

 

Only hitting bigger bumps in the road

 

Only when driving at any speed (other than like 3 mph over a speed bump) and I hit a larger bump

 

I have that noise. In my case, I think the pinch mount is hitting a slider support arm. I can see a line in the paint on the slider.

I can also look down the body and see the curve in the door no longer lines up with the one in the bed.

 

^^^
This, it happened to me before converting my sliders to weld on.

 

I dont have sliders or nerd bars so this is not gunna be my issue lol

 

well that leaves checking/rechecking all the frame mounts: body, engine, trans, driveline, suspension etc.
you can try jacking up each corner and measuring gap differences at the various mounts see if there is movement that isn't obvious sitting on flat ground.
if all else fails, try turning up the radio on the way to the mechanic.

 

I checked all motor and trans mounts and there good, idk about the front right body mount tho. I jacked the body up In that corner and the mount had at least 1" of up travel or "stretch" in the rubber

 

walks like a duck, quacks like a duck, shits all over your yard and pool... it's a friggin duck. if it isn't, you found something else that needs fixin. yay! truck lottery!

 

I am going by "front" you mean cab & not rad.... If so, I would ask someone to put their hand on the bolt head as you are driving. They may/should? be able to feel if there is any vibe. Also, I have read some stuff about pre-load & knocking/clunking, the solution being to add 1/4 inch spacers (I use neoprine washers) on top of the bottom mount. & I am sure you are torqued to specs, etc. My mounts are funky, or rather, my truck is as far as how the cab sits (I have the opposite of the tacoma tilt) & a botched mount install caused problems, so I am becoming anal about keeping an eye on them, measuring body to frame, frame to pinch weld, etc.

 

Here's one of the mentions I have seen regarding this preload. Worth a try?
https://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/fo...ore-POP-CLUNK-CLANK-from-body-mounts-!-HOW-TO