Anybody put a steering stabilizer on a 3rd gen?

Also balanced and new tires. 3 different wheel alignments (because I'm extremely OCD about alignments)

 

Did you throw UCA / LCA on at trying to fix the problem, or did you throw rack / tie rods on trying to fix the problem after changing UCA & LCA created the problem?

 

I did the UCAs because I went with JBAs for the lift. The lowers I changed because the original ones were pretty bad from the previous owner. The rack I changed because it was leaking and had to get replaced eventually. And with that came new tie rods. Honestly dont recall the bump steer before the lift. But also I should mention that the previous owner had a spacer lift on the truck when I bought it.

 

Also no play in any of the components. Also got new cam bolts from toyota because the previous ones were pretty ugly

 

With all that, you probably have the geometry going out of wack as the suspension rises or lowers. Either the UCA or LCA is not designed/ setup to work with the other. Take it to a shop than knows how to measure/ set this and they will figure it out. Or you can pull the shock, and cycle/cycle/ re cycle the suspension and figure it out.

 

Well its toyota LCAs and the JBAs are tacoma specific. So I dont know how that wouldn't be set up for the truck. And the shocks are Bilstein 6112s, set at notch 4. It tracks completely straight and will do that even at 70. But slow speed bumps, will definitely throw me around. Not to the effect of the steering wheel shifting, but enough to annoy me.

 

I'm even considering removing my sway bar

 

How much lift is that providing?

 

One big problem is I never measured the before height because it was already lifted with the spacers. But if I had to make an educated guess, I'd say at a solid 3 inches. Rear is 1.5 inches higher than the front. All current measurements are even left to right

 

I am gonna have to say that's more than likely your issue right there. What springs are you running, just because they have a notch that high doesn't mean its recommended to run it there. Lower that clip and get mew springs that are specific to your needs.

 

Running the 600s. But I originally put it at that notch because the plan was to get a bumper and winch. But that has to wait now. And pulling these things out to change the notch multiple times is a PITA

 

Also, I kept asking around if lowering to notch 1 or 2 with 700 springs with get me the same height and NO ONE could get me a straight answer on that. Not even the vendors

 

Because you need to look at toytec or ome springs. 888 or 887s

 

I’ve never been a fan of Bilstein for off-road applications and I’ve never see enough rebound dampening for the unsprung weight people add these days, but I doubt that’s your problem. A good shop will be able to sort it in no time, but finding one and their cost you may not like. Do you have the cam set correctly in the UCA, that’s probably the first thing any shop would check:

EDIT
Other thing to remember is your alignment was done at static sag. You may need the alignment done at deferent travel heights to get to the root cause.

 

Those springs are for 5100s. I have 6112s

 

The JBAs aren't adjustable. They just allow for more adjustment on the cam bolts when doing an alignment. But 2 separate shops gave me caster readings of almost 4 and nearly zero on everything else.

 

Pretty sure they are the same, just larger diameter, but the springs should still be the same application (meaning should fit)

 

I have only seen people run into issues with setting it any higher than the second clip or at least being happy with the ride quality.

 

Oh yeah ride quality is definitely shit. But I expected that so it didnt bother me. Plus when the added weight finally does get installed. I'm expecting it to soften out a bit. I just hope that weight also helps with the geometry issues as well

 

It will to a point, but I am afraid your coil will be almost completely compressed at that point.