TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

@12TRDTacoma theyere not talking about your party release

 

Spare tire weight reduction guys! Also a change to the JL 12W6. Box is birch instead of MDF.

 

@12TRDTacoma theyere not talking about your party release

 

Just to check the easy things I had my son start the truck while I watched the bypass valve. When you say it should snap open, how fast are we talking? Cause mine definitely didn't snap. It moved, but not fast. Lol. Now, the next question. Could the leak cause it to be slow? But I am starting to wonder if I have not had a bad bypass the whole time also. Too many variables and too many things just not feeling right. Getting very frustrated. Especially after driving the customers truck and seeing his boost level and feeling how responsive his truck is. It makes mine feel like I have a 4 banger with low gears and that is all.

 

A leak could cause it to be slow, because it does run off vacuum and boost after all. As of right now your best bet in ensuring it's integrity is to vacuum test it with a hand operated vacuum pump as I previously instructed you on how to test it.

 

Lol. I tried to do that but I think I am an idiot because it is obvious where the one end of the valve is at, the hose. But where is the other side of the valve? Is there a port somewhere that I cannot see? I hope there isn't supposed to be another hose coming off of it because I only have one. I will refer to page 1 again. Thank you for the thread again. And to everyone in here!

 

There is just one vacuum hose. One side attaches to the bypass and the other to the sc inlet. Let me find a pic.

Your bypass is spring loaded closed and should open quickly when starting the truck (like a half second).
When giving quick hard throttle in park you should see the bypass valve actuator open and close.

I know its frustrating but think of it this way, you have now finally realized there IS in fact an issue which means there is much power to gain when we figure out the problem.

 

Hope this helps.

P.S. The sc is upside down in the pic.

 

The bypass valve is a simple spring and diaphram setup. Spring pressure forces it closed and intake manifold vacuum opposes the spring pressure to open the bypass valve in vacuum.

 

OK, I thought I knew the charger pretty well, but then was starting to doubt myself. When I checked the customers valve operation yesterday he only had one also so I was pretty sure I wasn't loosing my mind. But I have been so busy with work and life lately that anything could be happening. I have access to a hand pump so I will check it that way right now and see if I can hold a vacuum. I just hook the hose to pump and hold the valve closed correct?

 

Correct. Apply vacuum to close valve then see if the valve holds vacuum. If it doesnt, the diaphram inside is ruptured.

Did you remove the bypass valve restrictor orifice?

 

That's a great price!

 

Remove vacuum hose, cap to prevent new leak, test drive. See if truck is noticeably higher in boost. If so, there is your problem.

 

Good call just dont keep it that way because you will always be in boost.

 

Yup^

 

I did along time ago and couldn't tell a difference at all so I put it back in thinking that if it helps take the shock out of slamming open and closed with no change in performance it would be best to have it in place.

 

Mine is in as well for the same reason. I'm just trying to eliminate variables.

 

Plugged restriction? Can't remember how small that hole is.

 

It's less than 1/32" small if I remember correctly.

 

I pinched off the line between the housing and the bypass with a set of line locks a tech had and volunteered to go pick up some parts and took my truck. I have never driven my truck with that kind of throttle response or low end power. I know since I am boosting at all times it might be slightly exaggerated but wow! I still couldn't get more than 3.2lbs of boost but it came on much sooner than it ever did before. I think I may have had a bad bypass since day one. I am going to order a bypass from Magnuson and then install it and helicoil the 12 intercooler bolts and replace the surge manifold gasket and the gasket on the intercooler lid all at the same time. I don't like changing too many things at once but I also don't want to take the unit off multiple times. I just might absolutely love my truck again! Thank You all!