2tr-fe 2.7L dirty coils

https://www.lceperformance.com/Street-Valve-Train-Kit-2TR-2-7L-4cyl-p/1021503-k.htm

 

That valve kit is $450, just replace em! Provided that shop can setup valves on a Yota 4 banger

 

that sounds about right to be honest which is why most folks go the used engine route. spending a little extra to know everything is done right is not a bad thing, though.

 

Thanks for the suggestion but I think I am going to have to pass on this one. $450 just does not fit the budget right now. I'm shelling out quite a bit as it is.

The header though...

 

Thanks Dad!

 

It's also $450! I have the header and the Pro clutch in my truck. Definitely more get up n go with armor and 255 KM2s, the 4.88s and rear locker are a solid addition as well.

You were willing to do all the work yourself or spend up to $4k? Now, you don't wanna buy go fast parts!? lol
I get it, I'm a cheap ass

 

Did you go with the intake manifold spacer yourself? I would think due to alignment issues you would need to replace the intake tube as well?

 

No, not yet. I'd like to find some kind of a tune available before I commit to the intake spacer. I'm adding all this better breathing ability, but that won't change an anemic ECU designed for fuel efficiency.
She's a fat 4 banger. I haven't seen over 19 calculated mpg in about 2 years, I'll start caring when it only gets 15

 

Well when push came to shove I decided to go the cheap route and just replace the head gasket myself. Early on I was really in dismay over what to do and was scared of this project tbh.

I think the header makes some sense to do right now. All the intake stuff can come after when my wallet recovers a bit. I missed the valve train "train" because the shop is assembling the head as we speak and I want to get this thing back on the road. Mom needs her Subi back!

I am interested in hearing about your rear locker job though. Did you go ARB? Have a shop do all the work?

 

I think I have decided not to replace the timing chains. There was basically no slop in the chain and the guides all have basically no wear. I will upload some pictures tonight when I have wifi for my mobile.

Two more things I am looking for.

1) The three O-rings needed for the back of the timing cover.

2) A replacement exhaust manifold heat shield if I decide to stay with the stock header. The old heat shield corroded out around all the lower bolt holes. The dealer wants $150 for this chintzy piece of aluminum and I cant find it anywhere else.

 

Haven't made it through the whole PDF to see the products you are talking about. This is the stuff I have already ordered based on another suggestion in this thread.

$22 Toyota Genuine Fluid 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EDDTV0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Good god this stuff is expensive!! Seems like you only need a little bit of it. Not sure what I'd do with the other $68 worth of sealant.

Looks like I have the right stuff for the timing cover on order.

$90 Toyota Seal Packing - 08826-00100

https://www.amazon.com/Toyota-08826-00100-Seal-Panelcking/dp/B01H137ZWE

 

Scratch this. I found the O-rings at the dealer and pulled the trigger on the LCE header...

 

I shopped around briefly for used engines but the prices were insane. $3k for a motor with 145k miles. Sheesh.

If I have to go through this all again at some point I will consider an engine swap for something different. V6 or diesel maybe idk.

 

So here are some pictures of my timing chain guides/tensioner. I think they look pretty good and am opting not to replace them.

Maybe that is a little foolish but I can’t bring myself the break open the second timing chain assembly and replacing all the sprockets seems like a real pain.

Let me know how you think these look.

 

It isn't a selectable locker, PowerTrax LockRite I think is the name. I swapped diffs with another TW member, he used my 4.10s as a core for his 5.29s.
I did the removal and install myself, with some help on the front

 

I don't know what that means? "Not selectable". It is limited slip or brake activated or something?

 

It's automatic, no air or electronics. Engages harder under more throttle, less engagement with less throttle. All mechanical.

 

Just found this thread. Thx for posting all the pics and updates. It's a great project to watch vicariously.

re. the timing chain. With the motor torn down as far as it is, it would be a mistake not to change the chain and tensioner. Much easier to do it now vs. having to rip it all apart later if the chain fails. Also, at 200k, there's no doubt the chain has streched.

Just my 2 cents. Look forward to seeing it finished.

 

I'd personally change the guides if I could afford it.
The chain I wouldn't worry about as much.
I don't know how the Toyota guides hold up.
But the Ford guides I've had the pleasure of dealing with tended to
break in pieces. Pieces of which ultimately ended up down in the oil pan.