Show off your Mountain Bike!!!

Your local bike shop recommended YT? That's odd

 

The Sweaty Yeti at Big Rock- DuPont this weekend.

 

Well, while they do sell Marin (i think..) he is mainly a repair shop and just a good honest guy running the place. I was having a road bike worked on & got into a conversation about picking a new MTB and b/c he isn't trying live/die by selling another company's bike (and rides a YT himself) I think he just wanted to spread the word.

 

I loved my jeffsy. thing was a fricken tank and never let me down.

 

With MTB season pretty much over at all my favorite places, I’m looking towards next season. I’ve decided to build my next bike. So here’s what I have planned so far. Still deciding on wheelsets and other “minor” stuff like pedals, cabling, etc.

I’m going to get an Evil Wreckoning LB frame in Fallout Green. Some of it can already be had on the bike. But other stuff like the dropper and brakesets are pieces I really want.


FRAME/FORK

• Evil Wreckoning LB
  • Medium frame
• RockShox Lyric Ultimate Charger 2
  • RC2 29, DebonAir
  • 160mm travel
  • 15x110
  • 51mm offset

DRIVETRAIN

• Crankset
  • SRAM GX Eagle Dub Boost 148
    • 170 cranks
    • 32T chainring
• Cassette
  • SRAM XG-1295 Eagle 12sp
    • 10-50T
• Rear Derailleur
  • SRAM X01 Eagle 12sp
• Bottom Bracket
  • SRAM Dub English
    • 73mm

COCKPIT

• Headset
  • FSA Integrated tapered headset No. 57/68
    • 44mm upper
    • 62mm lower
  • Upper Bearing
    • 30.2x41x6.5
    • 36/45 deg
  • Lower Bearing
    • 40x51.8x8
    • 36/45 deg
• Headset Spacers
  • XON Carbon spacer kit
• Handlebar
  • RaceFace SIXC 820 Carbon 35
    • Silver/White
    • 35mm rise
    • 35mm diameter
    • 820mm width
• Rear Shifter
  • SRAM X01 Eagle 12sp trigger shifter
• Dropper Post Lever
  • PNW Components Loam Lever
    • Red
• Stem
  • RaceFace Turbine R35
    • 35mm handlebar diameter
    • 40mm length

SADDLE/SEATPOST

• Dropper Post
  • PNW Components Bachelor Dropper
    • 34.9mm diameter
    • 150mm drop
• Seat Clamp
  • Hope Seatpost Clamp
    • Black
    • 34.9mm diameter
• Saddle
  • Spank Oozy 220
    • Green

BRAKES

• Front Brakeset
  • Hope Tech 3 E4
    • Black
• Rear Brakeset
  • Hope Tech 3 E4
    • Black
• Front Brake Rotor
  • Hope Floating Disc Rotor
    • Black
    • 180mm
• Rear Brake Rotor
  • Hope Floating Disc Rotor
    • Black
    • 180mm
• Brake Adapter
  • Post to Post

Behold:

 

That's funny. Mtb season is just starting back up where I live

 

One of the perks of LA, is that winter weather is actually better for MTB here. (especially for me, I love riding in "chilly" weather)

 

It's always MTB season here.

 

F you and your perfect weather and your perfect trails

 

LOL, better to be lucky than good is what I say.

 

This may be a noob question since I'm just starting to ride clipped in...but here it goes...

For reference I'm riding Crank Bros Mallet E pedals with some Gyro shoes (look like a hiking shoe), and have done about 100 miles.

In the last couple rides I've noticed my left foot has almost lost tension, it moves around quite a bit. The right is fine. The cleats are tight on both, and in a similar position.

I checked out the manual to see if I could adjust tension but didn't see anything. Any advice?

 

If there is no tension adjustment on the pedal and your cleats are not moving at all. The only thing left would be the actual cleat itself as in needs replacement because it's too worn. But I would be willing to bet your cleat is slightly moving as you twist your foot

 

I'll check when I get home, the cleats are definitely tight but I guess there's always a chance there is movement where they mount to the shoe under my body weight.

I'd hate to think the cleat is worn with that little mileage

 

Check the manual again for a "float adjustment" or something along those lines. "Pedal Float" is the amount of play your cleats have in the clip. So more float means your foot can move around a little bit while staying clipped in, aka looser.

 

Thanks, I'll have to google or youtube it so it seems lol. The manual doesn't have much info other than setting the spacing correctly

 

I don’t think crank bros are adjustable. They use a softer material cleat so I’d say they are probably broken in now. It is possible that the cleat is moving under the pressure of your foot but not from your hand.

It looks like they offer different cleats, might be worth trying to see which ones you have to get a better idea of how easy they should be releasing.
https://www.crankbrothers.com/blogs/news/cleats-customize-your-float-release-angle

 

Yea I was just looking at that article, it's just odd one has more movement than the other. From what I've read so far there definitely is no adjustment other than varying the cleats and positions.

Maybe mine moved a hair and that's whats causing it? I'll have to tinker with it to tell I think. The cleats don't look too beat up or anything so I think they're still fine.

 

A cleat moving under your foot can be a real pain in the ass. The weight of your body can move it and it still pass the finger-tight test

 

haha yea I bet. I'm gonna get this sorted out I tell ya...

 

Yeah a cleat that slightly moved could definitely give the feeling that it is releasing early. You might notice a weird foot position in that case though.

I’d start by making sure the cleats are in the same spot, tightening the screws, maybe even loosening them and applying grease to the screw before tightening. Maybe loctite. I’ve been told grease though.