HP Tuners for 2005-2015

good question. i removed all my gear but saved it.

 

Sorry this is short. Today has been crazy for me..

The short answer is Toyota will not be able to update the ECU (currently) as HPTuners updates the calibration ID to the latest version. Techstream cannot flash unless there’s a newer calibration ID available. So with HPT having the latest calibration id, there’s no chance in having your tune overwritten. I do not see Toyota developing a new calibration for any 2nd gen vehicle while 5 years into 3rd gen production.

 

Probably need to talk about that somewhere else , some other way .

 

As @TacomaSport86 pointed out and should be mentioned, these modifications of the SAI are in NO way sanctioned for on-road utilization. @TAC1 , these mods are for off-road purposes only, either race or recreational and any utilization on-road would violate current laws. Any efforts to intentionally subvert these mechanisms and knowingly use the vehicle on public roads is at each individual users own discretion/risk. The tuners and their intellectual property is not to blame for any users intent to break the law.

Sorry, back to regularly scheduled programming...

 

Good to know. Thank you. Hope you have a better day tomorrow. As for me, October just started & I can't wait until November. . You know my reasons.

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Thanks man for tagging me in this! Time to get that zoom back!

 

If anyone wants to see what some bad gas does to your truck..... see below. Its pretty amazing how the systems in these trucks react and protect and then regain performance in a relative quick manor.

the ONE time i fill my truck up with premium (admittedly from the cheap arco in town that probably has very little premium purchasing) i have this happen. The reason for filling up with premium vs regular was to flush the single line of the pump of the more than likely 87 that was in it before filling up the standup jetski and a 5gal gas can (need pure premium).... so i said fuck it and filled up with ~13 gals of premium in the truck before ski n gas can (ski only got 1 gallon in its 5 gallon tank).... 5 gallons in the can went back in the truck, not risking that shit in the standup thats probably borderline too much compression for pure 91 octane.

Next day coming home from work, nothing crazy as far as conditions, 80ish deg out, came down the lil grade truck running great like normal with my JustDSM tune and v11 trans tune.... and was sitting at the stop light for ~ 5min, went to take off and the truck felt G U T L E S S.... im talking like the parking break was put on HARD while towing a big ass load up a hill gutless.

I got through the intersection and went, shit, did SAI put me in limp mode? Is my fuel pump going out?.... just so happened to have my laptop and MPVI2, and plugged her in. No codes, throttle plate opens up all the way (no sai problems), AFR's measured looked fine so fuel pump is good..... maybe bad gas? The more i looked, the more it points to bad gas. Pictured is me pulling out into traffic from a turnout in the road.... that is ~70% throttle, at all of 10 mph.... note actual spark number.... NEGATIVE 4 *! Knock Correct Learn WAY down at 4*.... The SLOOOW pull in 1st gear started at NEGATIVE 15.5 deg of timing, and ended at 8.2 Deg... A typical pull of that sort is like 15 to 25 positive deg.

drove home the next 8 miles or so and by the time i was home the truck felt back to normal.

 

You do know the splash of 87 that may be in the hose isn’t going to hurt any motor once mixed in with more than a gal of whatever fuel it is supposed to have.

Still sucks and I would think “bad gas” would give more consistent symptoms and not just this short instance.

 

depending on where you look, its on average ~ .5 gallons of gas in the line, (figures say 1/3 to 1 gallon). If i was to not flushed the line and filled the jetski with the 1gallon it needed.... id of gotten 89 octane of lovely CA gas.... the jetski is ~5psi of compression away from needing greater than 91 octane... I aint taking chances.

Plus i was being lazy on that day and didnt want to pay multiple times (reg for the truck and premium for the can). Also lil motos like my grom with all of a one gallon tank are very much effected by leftover gas in the line, so i have always just gotten in the habit of "flushing the line" before filling up my can / motos / ski.

And yeah im not sure what really happened, this was just upon being warmed up and engine braking down the lil grade then stopped to idle and with AC on... the perfect storm maybe?

 

What method do you use to flush the line before filling up?

 

fill the truck up with at least a gallon or two of "premium" before filling the 5 gal can (to take back home n fill whatever up) or fill whatever moto is in the truck or trailer


EDIT - Id say just pour out a gallon of gas on the ground as a joke, but some CA official would probably send SWAT for me.

 

I feel this comment needs a prop 65 warning lol. And holy f*^king hell that warning is literally on everything. Like save the billions of stickers being printed for it and just put them on the signs when you enter the state.

Welcome to California. This state is known to contain cancer.

 

HAHAHHA right... what if the sticker itself needs a prop 65 warning.... ever seen like a recording of a screen displaying a recording! HAHAHAH.

also... statewide law went into effect yeserday.... you have to ask for plastic straws now everywhere that is dine in... sigh... i wonder how much pollution was created from the machine and the crooks talking smoke out their ass when making that law.

/CARANT.

Now back to your regularly scheduled HPTuning program.


Im excited to see what JustDSM has in store.... hes been working on something me thinks.

 

Yes I agree, if you want a can of premium you need to put a gallon in the truck/car first so you know you are getting 91/93.
I try to find pumps with a hose just for 93 for the bike.. In the car I run flex fuel, so it's not as bad...

 

So we went to the dunes a few weeks ago and the tune made a huge difference.
I went from needing a v8 swap to it would be nice but not needed.

Using component protect you can build a fuel map so the power is smooth, continuous and linear no matter what throttle position.
Last year the engine could bog all the way down and you would have to back out down the hill.
Now I can climb any dune at about half throttle.
Hold it around 3,000 to 4,000 and it just goes straight up.
Also gets an amazing 13.5 mpg.......... This engine loves gas....

Now I'm back to working on my daily map. Trying to get back up to 17 mpg with out killing too much power.
Trying to find the balance point of everything.
Just making small changes every few days.
Smoothing out the transition with component protect off just a little flat spot before power enrichment.
Runs much better with it on but seams to eat more gas...

 

I have to give a shout out to @JustDSM and @nd4spdbh for their collaboration on the tunes for the community! Top notch guys who really put a lot of time, effort and passion into it for us to enjoy. I have only ran the tune tune for a few hours but it is how it should have come from the factory, plain and simple. Some notes....My engine is all stock except for a drop in AFE dry filter and I have one size larger tires. No other performance mods. Here are the highlights as of right now:

-More linear throttle response
-Seems like there is more torque throughout the entire rev range
-Normal acceleration is more effortless now
-Shifts feel a little more firm (nothing crazy though), especially the 1-2 shift under heavy throttle. Before it seemed like it pulled power on that particular shift and now it just keeps on pulling.
-Holds torque converter lock and gear on the interstate like it should instead of being so shift happy under the slightest load/throttle input.
-In town driving is much easier, slight acceleration is much more normal. You don't have to push the throttle so much to make it do something.
-Cruise control actually works well!! I know that the cruise control logic isn't something that can be changed, but the transmission logic makes it so much better. It doesn't overreact on hills like it used to causing it to drop speed so much before downshifting and accelerating to the point of going 5mph over the set cruise and then back down and the story continues... But now it holds onto the converter lock longer and downshifts appropriately so it't not dancing between gears and over/under reacting all the time. Living in Iowa with South Dakota and Nebraska out my back door all we know is rolling hills, nothing like the rockies or smokies.

Anyway, my current conclusion is this is an amazing tune! Totally worth it if it's in your price range! For some of you that may not want to buy the HP Tuners MPVI2, check with some local tuning shops. Chances are they have it or see if any of the local car guys have one. I'm lucky in that the midwest is pretty much the land of LS swap everything and a lot of the guys I grew up with are DIY tuners. So all I had to do was pay for the credits and the tune. It takes all of about 5 min to get the Stock map saved and emailed. Once you get the tune back it takes about 8-10 min to install the tune....probably faster if your computer is 6ish years old like mine is (I really wished HP Tuners worked on my MacBook).

A couple things to note....I am experienced with working on cars and programing with OEM scan tools, but this is my first time working with HP Tuners, it is fairly self explanatory. But it can be a little difficult to navigate if you're not used to woking with automotive computer stuff and things. Also MAKE SURE YOU USE A CHARGER and TURN OFF ALL ACCESSORIES!!!!!!! I noticed as I've been reading through the pages (I've been following this almost since day one) that there has been some mention of "bricking" your ECU. I noticed that when I had my charger on that it was charging at a constant 8-10 amps while doing the tune. This is on a high capacity AGM battery. It may have been a software update issue on the HP Tuners, but this is something that you should do when tuning any vehicle. If you go to tuning shops you'll see a charger being used when they are tuning so they do not drop below the minimum voltage. Also if you dig deeper you'll find that Euro cars that have modules replaced and need reprogrammed will require a "power supply" so too speak. These are capable of 100A output and anywhere from 13.6-14.4vdc depending on the manufactures needs. So our little Tacomas are quite basic in comparison, but there is still precautions that need to be in place to ensure that nothing bad happens.

Again, a big thanks to JustDSM and nd4spdbh for making these tunes happen! Also @HPTuners I want to thank you for giving this community some much needed love, your work is very much appreciated!!!

 

I got my HP Tuner but my old ass laptop doesn't meet the minimum system requirements so I'll have to find time to get a new laptop.

 

I was almost in that same situation. My windows laptop is 5-6 years old and I haven't turned it on in almost year, it took almost a day to do all the updates. haha I wished HP Tuners worked with my MacBook, sooooo much more stable of a laptop!

 

Which battery charger are people using? Schumacher seems like way more than I need.

 

I’m having the same predicament. $600 can buy several ECMs