What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I got my tent from 4wd Parts on sale. It was $550 and they paid the tax. (they run that sale about twice per year)

I bought the awning (un-used) from a buddy for 100 bucks.

The Annex was an Amazon Warehouse deal for $135. (the box was open, but the Annex had never been unfolded)

 

Nut: 90179-10067
Studs: 90114-10002
Special stud: 90114-10021

 

what's the special stud? Lol

Thanks btw!

 

So there are 3 studs and a single stud like this:



The e brake hardware pivots off of it. Learned that when I rebuilt mine haha.

 

ahh I gotcha. Well at least that one isn't messed up. Just one of the nuts stripped out. I am hoping the stud threads itself are okay but I won't know until I cut that nut off.

 

If it is the studs are super easy to replace.

 

Yeah hopefully I won't need to, but I may have to hammer that sucker out as well.

 

If it's not gusseted it's likely not we'll enough to prevent it from bending. It's still going to do it's job just fine though.

 

For me to install my ifs skid I get the front two bolts in first. I'll sit and put the skid on my feet to raise it high enough that I can get the front bolts started then move on to the rest. It's definitely easier with a jack but it's also doable when on the trail. It's something you should be confident you can do should the need arise.

 

I always liked relentless's gussets at the bend.

 

Reminded me of this. Putting a skid on in the mud and snow.



Which reminds me, I should go on a rant about cheap CVs and binding.

You've got a welder. Just make your own.

 

That's what I wish my Budbilt had, over the last couple of years it's gotten twisted to one side just past where the bend is. Makes it difficult to line up right to put back on.

 

Question:
(Pretty sure I know the answers, but figure I'll throw this out.)

My truck has not been starting on the first turn of the key lately. When I turn the key, all of the lights come on like they should. Auto locks lock like they should. My battery gauges are showing 13.5 volts or more (with the truck not running). But nothing happens with the starter on the first turn of the key. I can turn the key again and the truck fires up and doesn't sound sluggish at all.

So, there is nothing wrong with the batteries or charging system... do I begin this by looking at the solenoid or the starter... or maybe the ignition switch?

 

You will know for sure if the starter is going bad (mine made this weird hooshing sound like a 1970's LTD with a whole in the exhaust manifold).

I had a solenoid go bad in my '86 Mustang GT and it was easily diagnosed and reproducible.
We also had a solenoid shaft get bent (how that happened, I have no clue) but after banging on the side of the solenoid, the Trooper started.

I have only Honda experience on a bad ignition switch (too much weight on the key ring cause the switch to come apart internally).

 

I just pulled the starter out of my T100 last week because it was taking multiple attempts to get it to turn enough to fire. All I did was pull it apart and clean it. It's worked perfectly ever since. Free fixes are the best!

 

Even OEM manual hub CV's?

I have manual hubs and will eventually be getting a front locker. All this talk about the weakness of the manual hub axles has me worried about breaking tons of parts.

Do you still have manual hubs? When you broke that axle, where did it break at?

 

Hmm...I have like 10 keys on my truck's keyring, maybe I should shed some of that weight off lol.

 

How do you drive with that shit bouncing and banging against the dash?

 

Doesn't really do that driving around on the street, but when I'm wheeling I have another set of keys that I use with only a few on there. One for the truck and a couple for truck related stuff that has locks.

 

This is how I do it... I just unhook the ignition key and run it by it's self when I'm off road.