What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

The part that goes into the manual hub is 6mm smaller. The rest of the axle is identical to an ADD axle. It broke inside the hub and destroyed the hub with it. Finding new hubs is getting more and more difficult to find and the brass bushings are almost impossible to get unless you want a used spindle.

$50 ADD axle

Or

$50 manual axle + $100 for a new hub + whatever it cost to get a bushing if you mar it up enough.

Those were the junkyard prices I used to go to.


I've since swapped back to ADD.

Run what you have and find out if you push it hard enough to break things. Along with a spare axle carry a hub as well.

 

Love it. Mountain bike with a motor.

I'm a small guy though, and ride techy single track mostly.

You need to know how to ride a small bore 2 stroke, but if you do it's way more fun than the 250s and 300s IMO.

 

Hmm. good to know. Thanks for explaining.

I'll run what I got until when/if I find it's not strong enough for my needs.

How do you like your front auto locker? Any regrets/complaints? Given my truck is a DD and I have manual hubs, I figured an auto locker would be a good cheaper option upfront rather than a selectable.

 

I was out at the KTM Rally, great riding in the area

 

What did I do to my 1 st Gen today just got it and drove it home.

 

Started replacing my air conditioning components and hit a snag. The original compressor pulley and clutch assembly is larger than the new one. Now I need to figure out which belt to get.

 

Verified my EGR is actually working by running a vacuum line into my cab while driving around. Also tried to get the O2 drive cycle to trigger by driving around for 2 hours, no success there.

 

I was pleasantly suprised to find my Autel OBDII will cycle a ready test while driving in 4mi.

 

I've been using torque pro on Android for years. I wonder if I can use a PID to trigger it.

 

It gets kinda creepy at 50 mph when the ABS dash light flashes and cycles the ABS motor. I thought I really effedup Sounded like rats fighting in the glove box.

 

Worth a try. would save drive time. I had no codes present or pending, hit clear codes which also cleared ready check then I/M button which initiated an engine ready test and watched as the PIDs individually popped green check marks. Took all of 5min. Autel OBDII operating manual makes no mention of this feature but I had it linked to my laptop and loaded latest updates prior.

 

pondered the defective Toyota frame paint with some new thought-provoking idea by fellow TW member @onakat regarding condensation issue

 

Found myself in the SF Bay Area and in Hwy 80 crap commute traffic at about 7pm on a Friday. 2-4mph stop-and-go-shit-traffic. Pushed in my clutch and it felt "different." Next time I engaged the clutch to get out of gear the truck immediately pops back into gear with the clutch pedal still on the floor. For the moment not knowing what is going on but knowing I don't want to figure this shit out in the middle of hundreds of moving vehicles I made my way over the the right lane and then off to the Powell Street exit and limped into the Chevy's Mexican Restaurant parking lot. This is about 7pm and I was lucky to find a parking spot. Once situated I looked up my symptoms on this forum and decide my clutch slave cylinder is shot. Went into Chevy's and let the manager know my predicament and that I might have to leave my Tacoma in his parking lot over night and he is chill about it but lets me know, in NO uncertain terms, that I should remove ANYthing of value because the vehicle WILL be (not might be, will be) broken into overnight. Called a friend who came and we took 30 minutes to unload my dog and anything else I cared about and then dropped her (dog) and stuff off at his house in Orinda. He brought me back and I called AAA but they were having a bad night and it was going to take several hours for them to make an appearance. Where I am parked I had cars on both sides of me and behind me and trying to drive the Tacoma in this state was just a recipe for smacking into someone and so decided to just chill there for a few hours until closing time at Chevy's and then try to rev-match shift my way back to my dad's house in Orinda. I get into the camper shell and take a nap (naps are good). Closing time is at 11pm and finally I wake up to the sounds of drunken morons coming out to their cars, standing around for 10-15 minutes right next to my Tacoma chatting with chicks they are trying to pull, being unsuccessful, and then finally getting the fuck out of my way. By 11:45 there are no cars on either side of me and the car directly behind me is gone so I have some wiggle room. So I open up my shell's "windoor" and crawl out only to see a police officer sitting in his car one row away behind me and he immediately puts on his lights and drives over to investigate. So, 10 minutes later I have explained to him everything I have just told you in 1 minute and showed him my license and showed him my registration and showed him my insurance and had a brief talk about my trasheroo kinda/sorta obscuring my license plate before he is satisfied and let's me try to get the fuck out of there. Finally start the Tacoma, get it into 1st gear and limp out of the parking lot. Hit a red light on the onramp to Hwy 80 but no one is there and just glide through, up the onramp on to 80 and then rev-match shift for 15 minutes back to Orinda and park at my dad's place.

Decided to replace both master and slave cylinder. Ordered OEM Aisin parts from Amazon. About $90 delivered. Had to wait until Monday. Took that time to read up on the replacement process and watch a few youtube videos and go buy a 10mm flare nut wrench, brake fluid and a turkey baster to suck the old, nasty fluid out of the master cylinder. Process was easier than I thought or was expecting. Sucked out the old fluid. Replaced the old slave cylinder. Replaced the old master cylinder. Filled the new master cylinder with fresh fluid. Had a friend pump the clutch on my command until the old, green, nasty fluid was out and new, clear, bubble-free liquid was coming out the nipple into the clear 1/4" tubing. Buttoned everything up and the clutch works again!

"Fun" experience. Learned a lot. Saved several hundred dollars on labor. For a brief moment I think I am a mechanic who knows what he is doing (not really).

Old parts (that's not fluid in the master, that's a stain):


The tint of the old fluid:


Shiny new master cylinder with pretty, clear brake fluid:


New, clean slave cylinder:

 

All shiny, will start putting back together tomorrow morning

 

Being that my frame warranty is up in 11 days, I crawled under and inspected/removed all rust that I could get to. Also shot a can and a half of fluid film in the inside of the frame. Didnt see anything worth bringing up to the dealer, only spot I couldnt get was inside the coil buckets, so I just shot a ton of FF in there. Ill coat the outside of the frame at a later date.

Also found a new leak. Gonna keep an eye on it, no rush to fix it.

 

A/C repair time, I replaced the compressor, condenser, dryer and oil.

Now I need an evaporator...

 

Is something you ran or factory? just curious

 

After 16 years, I decided to get wheels

 

I personally don't think there are any negatives to it other than you don't have an open diff anymore. I am able to enable/disable my ADD so I'm not truly locked all the time. This makes turning easier and isn't always binding things up. It does induce a good amount of torque steer though. I've gotten used to it now and don't mind it. You won't notice it's there at all when in 2wd. If you need 4wd while commuting I'd be careful. I've lived in the Rocky's for the last 4 years and kept it in 2wd unless I was leaving a stop going up hill. Once I got moving I'd go back to 2wd. There was 1 or 2 days I drove with it locked on my commute and never had any issues, they're weren't really any sharp turns to cause any understeer situations though.

I drove 6 hours home without a clutch once. Fortunately there were only 3 red lights and no stop and go traffic.

If it's resting on the clutch line I'd zip tie it somewhere else. I wore a hole in that line, hence my predicament above. Could have easily been fatal for me as it was an hour after completing Black Bear Pass.

 

What size socket is for the thing that plugs into the rear diff (not the housing) for the e locker? And does anyone know a part # for it?

also, can I drive without it plugged in or will gear oil puke out of the hole?



notice the hole under the connector where said sensor or doomaflotchy goes (edit, apparently its the rear diff lock indicator switch)

apparently according to Ih8mud the

$19 beck/arnley 201-1788 back-up switch

beck/arnley 201-1788 will work just fine so I'll just get a new one.