Wheel Bearing Already Spent? **Updated With Pics**

I replaced both front hub assembly's at the same time and the seals. The same noise is still there.

 

I was looking at this situation this morning. I noticed a much larger gap on the PS than the DS between the end of the CV axle and the knuckle. Is this normal?
DS:

PS:

If this isn’t normal, what would cause this?
The PS, which I think is the one growling, has the larger gap and I don’t know why.

 

looks like the seal didn't get seated all the way. But is it a problem?

 

Well, the bearing shit the bed in 12K miles. Is it because of this, I don’t know.

 

Probably your tires then.

 

I have a set of mudders that I run offroad but the noise is still there until the roar of the tires drown it out. It sounds just like a bearing but I've had both go bad in the front and the noise never changed. It could be the rears but I can't find any seal leakage and everything feels fine. Idk.

 

oh wow...just reading this and realized i may have a problem with my truck...I don't mean to hijack but it seems like the right people are talking about this here. I have a vibration primarily when making right turns. At first I thought it was the CV play but the mechanic said it was fine (sloppier than i would have expected though).

then i see this mention of the ECGS sleeve and bad wheel bearings in general. I have a the 5100s up front at 1.75" lift and the noise didn't start particularly soon after those went on. I noticed it after I pulled my boat out of the river in 4 wheel drive on pavement and thought I tweeked something in the differential. Had stuff looked at when i got an oil change and they said everything was fine so I haven't done anything but now I'm thinking they were incompetent (not surprising) and that I should do something about it. I've probably driven close to 20k miles on it like this.

If i'm a total jerk and thread-jacking here let me know and I'll repost.

 

No problem man.
My bad bearing was actually quieter when turning.
The noise was much more prevalent going straight.
I replaced both bearings at the same time.
My LEFT Front was the culprit.

The needle bearing usually causes Vibrations @ 30-50mph.
And it typically goes away if you put it in 4H.

My preliminary guess is yours is maybe a CV issue.
Since you don’t have any sounds until you are turning?

 

My wheel bearing moans going straight (sounds like loud tires) but when I take a curve in the road it gets louder curving to the left, goes silent curving to the right.
It did this same thing last time. Everybody said that means it is the PS bearing but it wasn’t. I replaced PS, same noise. Later that day I replaced the DS, noise completely gone.

 

I use bluepitbearings. I've got 10k on mine.

 

Did you get them from this guy who’s been Permabanned?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/banned-members-memorial-thread.115215/page-1857#post-21269441
(Second one down, Bamatoy1997)
Also check this thread:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/jersey-built-hubs-customer-service.584773/

I can’t remember how he marketed himself but it seems, from the content of the ban notice, his services went down hill over time.

You might want to bite the bullet and get another set, some seals, and do it again. Might be the path of least resistance.

This guy seems solid, a hard worker who keeps his customers updated:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wheel-bearings-hubs-press-service-4x4-prerunner-nsk.537080/

 

Yes, they were built by Bama. I’ve never seen anyone complain. About his quality, only his timeframes on delivery.
Was his quality poor as well?

I will be buying from @05Taco4x4 from now on.

 

I don’t know about his quality, just from what I’ve read here including how the mods referred to other issues in the ban notice.

Good Luck!

 

I don't really want to try turning in 4H on the road and not sure when i'll be off-road next especially with the right conditions to be able to detect the difference...not a lot of flat dirt roads i can take turns on at 30-50 mph around here.

Mine does only seem to happen during turns...I have mud tires so if it's happening straight, maybe i can't tell, it get's a pulse to it though when turning and mostly right turns.

The way i see it is this (let me know if I'm wrong about any of this):

1. If it's a bad wheel bearing that could leave me stranded and do damage to the hubs requiring new hubs
2. If it's a bad ECGS sounds like that doesn't hurt anything over the short run, but I've been running it this way for quite a while so it could be introducing unnecessary wear on the front diff
3. If it's the CV joint the only thing to do would be to replace the axle, so maybe just wait till it gets worse?

Are there easy ways to test any of these? For the wheel bearing, i'm guessing you disassemble the hub, inspect and repack if they're ok, replace and repack if not or just replace since they're probably cheap. CV play seems subjective and while i thought I had too much, it's not noticeably different than what I've seen in a video elsewhere on this site. Is there an axial play measurement you can do for the ECGS?

 

The differential output needle bearing issue is that it wears and causes increased radial movement in the axle- not axial play. Compare it to the passenger side and the driver's side will be much worse- push up on the inner CV where it goes into the diff. If you have more than 80K miles it is probably ready to be changed. Lift above factory height = increased bearing wear rate.

On wheel bearings, if the noise goes away when you turn, it's probably a bad bearing. You can jack up the front and rotate a wheel by hand and listen. Keep in mind the brake pads will be dragging, but a bad bearing will make a different sound.

 

Thanks, I'll give that a try...I used to check wheel bearings by rocking the tire toward and away the center of the car to see if there was any axial play as well.

I've got close to 90k mi on the truck and the last 20-30k have been with the 5100s lifting the front up a bit.

I thought i read that it was normal for the driver side CV to have more play than the passenger side due to the difference in length of the axle?

 

I'm in the middle of my hub assembly replacement. I noticed one corner of the flange has a green mark on it. Do these have to be clocked to a certain direction?
Assembly is a doorman 950-001 111

 

I don't think so. When I replaced mine with bluepitbearings, they didn't have any specified way of putting them on. I would place all the green lines on the same stud tho.. just to be safe. I can't see how that would matter much tho

 

I have it all together, seems like it's all good. thanks for the response

 

I didn’t notice any markings on my set.
We just stock the on, the important part is to remember

Awesome!

Did you remove the wheel speed sensor when do this?
I’m only asking because I usually do, but with over 13 years on my current sensor.
I’m a bit hesitant to pull it out the next time I need bearings.