TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

by a little more work he means 2 minutes of grinding. super easy.

 

@12TRDTacoma , whats the torque on the s/c snout bolts? going to do mine soon.

 

So to clarify, when getting the Roush tensioner, we should also get a 50mm double roller bearing linked on page one? The bearing that comes on it doesn't fit properly?

 

I agree, i just reinstalled the stock tensioner. Gonna go for a test drive here in a bit, but alignment already looks better

 

get the 50mm. its worth the peace of mind.

 

i believe its far too large. interference issues.

 

What about the stock one? Can’t you just swap them? Maybe I misread the previous posts. Does the stock pulley on the roush tensioner is not properly aligned?

 

Thats the case with my setup. Running the stock tensioner pulley on my roush

 

Working on making a custom spacer right now to get things back in line

 

Just did this today when swapping in the 2.5. Installed rousch tensioner with stock pulley. I first tried the 69.5" belt but it was too tight and the tensioner had too much preload. Put the old belt back on (70.2) and it was just right, slight preload on the tensioner. Very little if any misalignment.

 

It took me a little longer with the Dremel, but when I did it I was going for a semi pretty finish.

That's not a serious question is it? Lol. There is sealant all around the snout housing. If you use silicone or the sealant Magnuson recommends it doesn't make a difference. Guttentite is the torque spec brotha.

Guttentite is my torque for everything under that engine bay outside of critical internals.

The bearing that comes with it is MASSIVELY oversized and is meant for a Mustang V8.

 

it was a serious question. i bought the red silicone as you advised. too often i use no torque wrench. after hearing of intercooler lid issues with stripped threads and problems i thought id ask.

 

@12TRDTacoma a stock legnth rpm with a belt wrap and roush is fine yes? not sure im going 2.3.

 

To be honest I think that the intercooler and general blower issues that have occured have been so due to either misfortune or just inexperienced installation. Not to insult anyone here if anyone takes that personally because that's not the goal here at all. You just need to have have enough experience to know when to stop on fasteners, but going good and tight on them should never present you any issues. If it does, then the question of use of or the quality of the metal should come into question.

A belt wrap will help absorb the slack so yeah. I'd prefer you use a Billdacat wrap if you are going 2.5 and smaller though. 26 and up you are good to use JFR if using a non properly sized belt.

 

So here was my solution.. took a thick grade 8 washer and enlarged the inside of it and then ground down the outside of it with a dremel so it would fit between the stock idler pulley for the tensioner. Put this spacer on and used the longer bolt that came with the Roush on the stock tensioner pulley. The belt was riding about and 1/8" off of the idler before the spacer and now its back on the pulley and lined up nice

 

Do not space it out much further than that. Remember that sleeve that you put the washer around secures the bearings inner race. You want that inner race held down and secured tightly. The bolt helps that to an extent but the sleeve itself is the other side to that coin as far as support goes.

 

Theres just enough of that race still sticking out to keep it centered i think. Im gonna leave it right where its at and see how it does. Fingers crossed this is all it needs

 

I would personally run that temporarily and run a double roller as soon as you can. You will notice an improvement in the switch. Between the upgraded tensioner and the upgraded roller I found a notable increase in boost holding stability while at any particular range in pedal position while in boost.

 

not to mention longevity. 2 bearings to cope with that force should last much longer.

 

Im fairly sure id have the same if not worse spacing issues with the double roller. Since i just replaced the all the idler/tensioner bearings today, im gonna run this for a while unless it fails for some reason. As easy and cheap as those tensioner bearings are, ill just swap em out every 10-15k so i am less likely to have issues. after 25k most of mine were hard to turn so it was time for some new ones