TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Did you go with gates brand or something fancier?

 

I went with the Timken bearings in the OP that @DocME did the research on. Here are the ones for three of the idlers and the s/c tensioner idler. There is one more thats a little smaller for the middle idler. Used a timken on that one as well. Replaced the belt last weekend with a 69" Gates RPM

https://www.qualitybearingsonline.com/63032rsc3-timken-deep-groove-radial-ball-bearings-17x47x14mm/

 

believe those are what i used last month to replace mine. iirc theyre made in china. hey, if they work they work. is there an option to get oem(ish) possibly made in the usa or japan? could there be a difference?

 

The double roller is over double the amount of surface area the belt needs to ride on alone. You will have no spacing issues whatsoever and if there was an issue I would not be running them nor would the various other members who run it either.

 

How did you lubricate them, what did you use?

 

believe theyre sealed. i used a little grease to pound them in easier.

 

Yes theyre sealed, i used a little copper antiseize to help drive them in easier

 

Which Apr studs? Got model # or specs handy?

 

Im not sure on a Japanese or usa made replacement option. I originally was gonna use NSK like what came stock, but i had a hard time finding them

 

Timken is a solid choice. In many cases they are rebranded Koyos or sometimes they even say Koyo right on the bearing races, and Koyo bearings are an OE choice by many Japanese brands including Toyota and Honda.

The bearings are incredibly easy to replace yourself if you own a set of snap ring pliers, an appropriately sized socket which fits the bearing face and a hammer. You just drive it out clean the surface of debris and gunk and then reinstall the new bearing. Done done done.

 

I would email Kiel and ask him about it. I know that there are some custom spacers you need for the springs to work in these heads. They had to rush to make more while they were producing the batch of cams we all ordered.

 

I may try some Koyo's next time around if i can find them in the right size. I did buy

$35 Channellock 927 8" Snap Ring Plier | Precision Circlip Retaining Ring Pliers | Includes 5 Pairs of Interchangeable Tips | Made in the USA

these snap ring pliers for this job, and they worked fantastic! Like you said, super easy to swap them out, i used a vice and a couple pieces of aluminum angle to hold them in place while i hammered out the old bearings

 

I think I know

 

Y pipe. I was eyeballin it hard

 

Awesomeness. Thanks bud!

 

Yup, JFR #20

 

You'll most likely want to tap the holes again. From factory they fit extremely tight and the apr studs will not fit well. M8x1.25. Either the factory block is heated prior to install or the factory studs are cooled.

 

Did you use helicoil or time-sert or other brand? Or just straight up drill and tap?

 

I think there are earlier model years that are like that.
My old ones came out, and those same ARPs went in without issue.
I used heat and wax to get them out with none of them breaking off.

This thing helped a lot.
Shop Iron 16023 3/8" Drive Stud Extractor

$19 Shop Iron16023 Damaged Bolt and Stud Extractor Tool for 1/4" to 1/2" Studs

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00265M8N4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oUKMDbN1H7WQK