1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

I'm thinking the most difficult thing to remove would be the ADD piece/tube from a front diff if I can't find a front diff that used manual hubs.

 

ideally you want both. the 3/8 is more useable for everything but wont do the big shit like the 1/2

 

I got to use my co2 that day (it was just last week) and the guy's mind was blown

 

The only time I don’t use my 1/2 pneumatic gun is when I’m doing small fasteners, like M6 and below. A majority of what I do (e.g. removing horns from old GM sedans) only requires low power attacks. I don’t need a huge 1/2 to remove an M6 or M5 bolt or nut.

 

Ever since I left my rear diff drain plug finger tight a couple years ago I always do a mental check list of torqued bolts when I get into my truck after working on it. I got lucky that time that I caught the leak from it the next day...even luckier it didn't come off completely while driving

 

IR 1" impact for the win. For when you have to break the lugs loose on your Mack Dump Truck.

 

Even my 1/4" drive Makita can pop crank pulley bolts loose. Honestly nowadays unless you're in the rust belt I think most of the electric ones are good choices. Maybe get something you have batteries for already, that's the expensive part.

 

Batteries I have are for the lower powered Craftsman tools so I'll be starting new all over again.

 

Do yourself a favor and replace the e-torx fasteners that attach the tube to the clamshell with hex bolts. The e-torx strip really easily. I had to weld a wrench to my old diff to get a stripped one off.

 

While you're at it, look at the tools that share the batteries with the tool you want, and possibly those that your friends have. Buying a battery powered tool tends to get you into an ecosystem from that manufacturer, and if you can share batteries with friends, it's that much easier.

 

Oh I was definitely planning on it; I saw @Uphillshunter replace his when he did his big swap.

 

Ohhhhh yeeeaaaaahhhh

 

Btw, @BartMaster1234 you know it's pretty much your fault that I got a prerunner and decided to do a 4x4 swap right?

I had gotten rid of my 2007 Nissan Frontier only because I like the way the Tacoma drove/felt vs the Frontier I owned.

 

Or for 5-ton owners...even if it's an imaginary 5-ton

 

I have a 1” at work.



For Honda crank bolts

 

On the plus side...imaginary tools for an imaginary vehicle are cheap

 

"MAINTENANCE IS ALMOST NON-EXISTENT!"

 

Huh??? What kinda Makita 1/4 impact can get a crank bolt??? Oh maybe brand new car with no loc tite. Doubt it'd work on any of the crank bolts I've removed for timing belts

 

Stripped fasteners suck. I don’t know why Toyota used E-Torx.

 

I saw the south main auto guy on youtube do a timing kit on a pilot. He used a really thick walled impact socket and buzzed it off with a smaller gun. Used a normal socket for demonstration and it wouldnt budge.