Help! How do I handle this stripped/seized bolt? (pic)

That was the first thing I did. The chisel was my last ditch effort. But apparently there are way more second options

 

Sweet! Got pics of your rig? I’d like to see everyone’s setup if you don’t mind.

 

Sure. My wheeling rig is a 97 4runner. It's got the same front end as a 1st gen Taco. Here it is in it's natural habitat.





Here it is in it's other natural habitat:




Here's a shot of my driver side. SPC UCA's, Kings, RCV CV's, TBU, Total Chaos spindle gussets, TG 8" limit straps.




Here's what your steering rack d-ring looks like after a few wheeling trips. Old D-ring and bushing on the left compared to new on the right.

 

I need to replace my steering rack bushings. Have a new set but been putting it off because the diff drop prevents me from getting the long bolt out on the driver's side (barely but prevents it from coming out). Probably just going to remove the diff drop since it does jack all anyway

 

Wow sweet rig. Looks fun. Looking forward to doing more when this thing is fixed. Yeah the diff drop did nothing for me except decrease my approach angle

 

Didn't do anything for me either, was having CV boot issues but the diff drop hardly made a difference...not worth the $20 or 30 min it takes to install IMO. And it screws with your ability to replace your rack bushings lol. Ended up lowering my front lift a bit which solved the boot issues (mostly).

 

The diff drop does one thing very well. It prevents the long bolt from coming out. lol

If your worried about your CV"s a limit strap is a way better solution, IMO. Sacrificing 1/2" of droop to keep the CV's from binding is well worth it. It's even more worth it if your front locked. You will never notice it at all. Although since I've gone to RCV's i haven't broken a CV in a year. That's with a lot of hard miles in that year. lol

 

Yeah I think welding a nut on there is the best option, or just a piece of rebar straight to the nut lol

She's only a 2wd tho

 

Damn this ones sick!

 

Thanks

 

Let's see your rig, besides a beat to shit nut

 

starting to feel bad for your nuts

 

It's his nutz man

 

Lol, let me clean it up a bit and get this nut out and I’ll take some pictures.

 

How did it strip in the first place? The bolt doesn't look corroded. With a 6-point socket squarely on it and a cheater bar either the bolt comes out or the head of the bolt breaks off. Or am I wrong? Maybe the bolt isn't a high grade?

 

Did not see this suggestion exactly - cut the head off with oxy Act. Visegrip on the remaining shank of the bolt. Also Kroil is the best stuff for frozen bolts. (better then PB blaster. Equal to automatic trans. fluid mixed with Acetone)

I believe one can not do the full sprectrum of automotive service without the hot wrench.... (oxy/acct. set up)

 

Could try grinding it down to fit a wrench then a bar and etc.

 

If you have them, a dremel and cut off wheels if space is tight. Just cut the head off. Then penetrate with aforementioned Kroil (or atf solution) as you’ll be able to get it in closer to the threads. You’ll also be able to more effectively heat the shank with all that other mass out of the way as well as absorbing the heat away from the bolt. Then vice grips / ez out etc. and maybe chase the female threads.

 

If you don’t have oxy/acetylene try mapp gas instead of propane.

 

These work great