1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

hey what would elocker thirds without the actuators in need of a rebuild be worth to yall?

think i can get 150 each?

 

Jimmy Diresta Welding Tips

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OPeJGUPoCZ8

 

that movie was trippy!

 

https://youtu.be/34CZjsEI1yU

 

@JKO1998 https://www.instagram.com/p/B3UjxSrgU5L/?igshid=t85fxcw21d8s

 

My buddy blew his rear diff up in his can last month, can’t imagine it’ll take tracks too well

 

@Speedytech7 how bad is a clutch job on the 3RZ? Not that mine needs it, but with the rear main seal and the tranny/t case input/output seals leaking its gonna need done at some point in the near future.

 

Doing the clutch is simple. It's getting access to it that is a pain. Depending on how much lift you have you could drop the trans and change it with out needing ramps/jacks other than a trans jack. I've always done a clutch with the engine out so I've lucked out in that regard and don't have much knowledge in dropping the trans for a clutch job.

 

This will be me in a couple hours

 

what kind of face when parts go missing?

 

I have 2" of lift so I think I could slide it out with no issues, but I have ramps available if need be. Gotta do some research and get a part/tool price list made up and see of its gonna be worth it to do myself.

 

The hardest part is getting to the top bolt of the trans/engine, need a few long extensions and a weeble wobble to get to it if you don't have a body lift.

 

Cant get a long wrench down from behind the valve cover? Ive got some XL ratcheting wrenches, and there is a little bit of space between the engine and firewall.

 

You can it's just a lot of short moves compared to full turns with the extensions and impact drill.

 

I used a 10’ socket extension after I unbolted the transmission bracket and let it lean down towards the back. I hit the top bellhousing bolt from in front of the rear axle.

 

Seems a bit excessive considering the trans+t case is only 4ish feet long

 

Only if the last person to change it put the bolt back

 

I have a ton of welding experience with a 110 mig. I've used many different brands and models. I have never used a 110 machine that had gas hooked up to it that worked in a good enough manner for me to be happy with how it worked. I'm not suggesting it's not possible though. The 110 migs need a solid good supply of up to 15 amps otherwise the machine won't work as good as it could. Other than the 20+ year old Craftsman 110 mig I gave away about 3 months ago the only machine I would consider buying is a 110V Lincoln. I have never used a 110 Miller, I don't even know if they make them.
I've built complete car frames, boat trailers, utility trailers, heavy car frame mods, partial body panel replacement/sheet metal, exhaust, etc etc etc all with that 110 Craftsman. To my knowledge no weld I've done has ever broken or cracked.
If you're looking for perfect looking and beautiful welds out of a 110 mig then you have a disappointing future ahead of you. If you want to build a air or water storage tank with a 110 mig then you have a big challenge ahead of you but it can be done.
Lots of welders say flux core is trash but there are lots of idiots in the world. Studies have shown that flux core welds can be stronger than their gas weld comparisons. Skyscrapers are welded with flux core machines (strong weld and aren't affected as much by windy conditions while welding).
110 migs set up with flux core wire are the shiznit!