Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

I just tack weld mine in place haha

 

Same. Though my tacks look like 1” beads lol. Haven’t had issues in the last year of me beating my truck other than toe going out a time or two

 

any rubbing while driving? my 295s clear the cab mount while stationary on the driveway but will rub at full lock reverse when driving. It doesn't rub at all while moving forward though.

 

What offset wheels do you have and what are your alignment specs?

And what does it look like at full bump, full lock?

 

that i cannot provide lol.. my alignment guy refuse to give me the sheet printout. but its on spc uca and 0 offset method.

 

What happens if you bottom the truck out while turning?

 

I wouldn't know for sure.. I haven't cycle the suspension while testing other than driving it onto a small ramp and full lock with clearance. I was just wondering if your current setup right now will rub on the street while reversing in full lock.

 

I already did my CMC prior going offroading, but this was just my experience before i did the cmc.

 

This is true even for smaller tires. Mine are constantly self clearancing but that's due to the offset and width of the wheel. My set up is really aggressive it's a give and take. I like a square stance and can't stand rear wider than the front or visa versa so mine are stuck out pretty far. That and also it helps with keeping the body away from possible damage on our tight trails here in the SE.

 

It clears all the way through the travel lock to lock

 

I like that. You should sell extra tabs so that after we've ground the weld off twice they can be easily replaced.

 

They aren’t intended to be welded on. Once the alignment is done you match drill the hole on top of the key to the lower arm tab and run a pinch bolt

 

I know, and the alignment will be good until the frame gets tweaked. Then the hole will be too close to re-drill and use a pinch bolt.

 

It takes some work to bend the frame a little, but it's pretty easy to do, especially if you drive fast and hit things.

 

That's what boxing and triangulation is for


Well it'll help some and better than factory

 

It certainly helps. But you also need a shock tower cross brace, at a minimum.

 

If I ever get to that point all I have to do is cut out new tabs with the pin bolt hole in a different location. The reality is if I’m bending my frame enough to where I have had to drill multiple holes then I’m probably driving way past the limits of a truck with no cage

 

True. It's certainly pushing the limits of an uncaged truck, although both times mine has tweaked I wasn't doing anything that crazy.

Really the point is that it will happen often enough that your users will be concerned about it.

 

It really is amazing how much the frame and body flexes. Just watching other trucks going over obstacles you can see the bumpers and body move differently.

 

Frame flex is huge on these trucks. I fork lift flex tested the rear of my truck before and after building a more solid cross brace and lost 2” of “flex” before lifting the opposite tire off the ground.