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1st gen 105 amp bolt in alternator.

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by chagovatoloco, Sep 21, 2019.

Page 8 of 23
  1. Oct 1, 2019 at 9:37 PM
    #141
    Empty_Lord

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    thought so. might be doing the upgrade on the 02. unless the noise is coming from elsewhere. no time to pull the belt this week though
     
    Empty_Lord, Oct 1, 2019
    #141
  2. Oct 1, 2019 at 9:37 PM
    #142
    chagovatoloco

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    chagovatoloco [OP] Active Member

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    Correct, if you bypass the factory alternator fuse and go straight to the battery there is no need to upgrade the fuse.
     
    chagovatoloco, Oct 1, 2019
    #142
    1997tacomav6[QUOTED] likes this.
  3. Oct 1, 2019 at 9:38 PM
    #143
    Empty_Lord

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    i would install one though.
     
    Empty_Lord, Oct 1, 2019
    #143
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  4. Oct 9, 2019 at 7:42 AM
    #144
    1997tacomav6

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    Ok, so I’m not running any high amp drawing items on my truck.

    So since I’m running a positive power line directly from the alternator to the battery I should have
    an in-line fuse just for safety.

    What amp in-line fuse should I install? 100?

    Can I use any audio type in line fuse?

    2AEDF406-FE99-4FED-BC88-13B6A22E3759.jpg
     
    1997tacomav6, Oct 9, 2019
    #144
  5. Oct 9, 2019 at 7:45 AM
    #145
    ThunderOne

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    ThunderOne Well-Known Member

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    you should get a fuse that is slightly higher than the max output of the alternator, I would assume.

    I'm not a fan of those vial type fuses. They sell high amperage fuses for car audio that are a bit better.

    These mini ANL fuses are the ticket. Or you can go with a full size ANL fuse also.

    https://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i767_afs-mini-anl-fuses.html

    https://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i260_anl-fuses.html
     
    ThunderOne, Oct 9, 2019
    #145
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  6. Oct 9, 2019 at 7:48 AM
    #146
    1997tacomav6

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    But if you have two power wires going to the battery, the stock wires and then the added direct wire to the battery has does that change the amp flow?
     
    1997tacomav6, Oct 9, 2019
    #146
  7. Oct 9, 2019 at 7:48 AM
    #147
    chagovatoloco

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    chagovatoloco [OP] Active Member

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    If your going to use a fuse I would just use the OE toyota one and swap it out for a 120. The toyota fuse setup is nice and easy to find replacements if needed.
     
    chagovatoloco, Oct 9, 2019
    #147
  8. Oct 9, 2019 at 7:50 AM
    #148
    ThunderOne

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    ThunderOne Well-Known Member

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    I have no idea. That's something I have been wondering about as well. Plus, if you have two separate wires generating current to the battery, would you even need to get 4 gauge wire? You might be able to get away with 8 or even 10 gauge. Again, I have no clue about the efficacy of this. I haven't installed my alternator yet. Still sitting in the box :( Too many other projects going on right now.
     
    ThunderOne, Oct 9, 2019
    #148
  9. Oct 9, 2019 at 7:51 AM
    #149
    ThunderOne

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    ThunderOne Well-Known Member

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    that would work as well, but looks like he's got two wires going from the alt to the battery. One of them is the stock wire and another is going straight to the battery.
     
    ThunderOne, Oct 9, 2019
    #149
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  10. Oct 9, 2019 at 7:53 AM
    #150
    chagovatoloco

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    chagovatoloco [OP] Active Member

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    Two wires on the alternator, I guess that'd work but it's a little much.
     
    chagovatoloco, Oct 9, 2019
    #150
  11. Oct 9, 2019 at 7:54 AM
    #151
    ThunderOne

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    yes
     
    ThunderOne, Oct 9, 2019
    #151
  12. Oct 9, 2019 at 8:00 AM
    #152
    1997tacomav6

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    Ok, but the
    yes, instead of replacing the stock alternator wiring harness with a 6 gauge I added a 6 gauge directly to the battery from the alternator as some others have done.
    So the alternator power is split in two wires back to the battery.

    If I upgrade the stock fuse to 120 I would think I need to change the gauge harness if I didn’t have the other cable to the battery

    So if I keep it the way I have it with two power wires back to the alternator I’m guessing the current is divided in two, so maybe I need a 65 amp fuse?
    Not sure

    Running a cable directly from the battery to the alternator would take the load
    off the stock wire harness is what I’m thinking for the added amps.
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2019
    1997tacomav6, Oct 9, 2019
    #152
  13. Oct 9, 2019 at 8:12 AM
    #153
    Gen1FTMFW

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    The fuse is protection for the wire itself so that you don't overload it (i.e. burn the insulation and cause a fire). Use an ampacity chart to determine the current that the wire can handle and go with a fuse that's rated for that current (or smaller). You definitely do not want to use a fuse that has an ampacity greater than the wire. This works for parallel runs as well.

    d1ae3503b69382d19c526c0ad368ba34.jpg

    For example, a 18awg wire that is less than 3' can handle up to 40A. It would be fused at 40A or less.
     
    Gen1FTMFW, Oct 9, 2019
    #153
  14. Oct 9, 2019 at 8:18 AM
    #154
    1997tacomav6

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    Ok, so if we have two wires in parallel, one that’s 6 gauge (that I have installed with no fuse yet) and one that’s 8 gauge ( stock harness with the stock fuse I’m thinking) going approximately 2 feet from the alternator to the battery with a MAX output of 105 amps,
    What fuse should be used on the two different cables?
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2019
    1997tacomav6, Oct 9, 2019
    #154
  15. Oct 9, 2019 at 8:32 AM
    #155
    Gen1FTMFW

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    You could potentially go with more than 200A per. Again, the fuses are only there to protect the wire. The output of the alternator doesn't matter because the fuses aren't there to protect the alternator. If it makes you feel "safe", you could put 65A or 120A etc on each and risk blowing them. Bottom line, don't exceed the ampacity of the wire.
     
    Gen1FTMFW, Oct 9, 2019
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  16. Oct 9, 2019 at 8:37 AM
    #156
    1997tacomav6

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    Haha, that makes sense, so I will keep the stock fuse that is rated for the stock cable and add a 120A -200A fuse for the new 6 gauge wire that I added from the battery to the alternator

    That should work?
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2019
    1997tacomav6, Oct 9, 2019
    #156
  17. Oct 9, 2019 at 8:39 AM
    #157
    penadam

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    penadam Well-Known Member

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    If you're curious, for equal length 6 and 8 gauge wires, you should expect to see 61.4% of the current in the 6 gauge and 38.6% of the current in the 8 gauge. For a 105 A alternator, 64.5 and 40.5 amps respectively.
     
    penadam, Oct 9, 2019
    #157
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  18. Oct 9, 2019 at 8:41 AM
    #158
    1997tacomav6

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    That’s interesting, so the 6 gauge wire will take the majority of the load then?
     
    1997tacomav6, Oct 9, 2019
    #158
  19. Oct 9, 2019 at 8:47 AM
    #159
    penadam

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    penadam Well-Known Member

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    Yes, it's a larger wire (lower resistance), and it will therefore carry more current. For wires (or any resistors) in parallel, the voltage through all of them is the same, but the current through them is split according to the resistance. The equivalent system resistance is calculated as follows:

    1/REquivalent = 1/R1+ 1/R2 + etc... So you can see the equivalent system resistance is less than any individual wire. To find the ratio of the current that flows in any particular wire, you divide REquivalent by the resistance of the component in question.
     
    penadam, Oct 9, 2019
    #159
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  20. Oct 9, 2019 at 8:50 AM
    #160
    1997tacomav6

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    That’s what I needed to know, thanks, will definitely keep the added 6 gauge wire then and not worry about the stock wire harness as its carrying only a small load now.

    What’s my best choice for a fuse for the 6 gauge wire? with the stock harness in parallel?

    120a, 200a?
     
    1997tacomav6, Oct 9, 2019
    #160
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