Wiring dual fuse block.

I currently have a 12 circuit Blue Sea fuse block all wired up, but would like to get a split unit (or a second one) that would be an acc switched circuit. My though is to add a relay and trigger it with a fuse tap that is switch power from the underhood fuse box. Then wire higher amp wire from the constant power side to the rely, then that connected to the input on the switch power side. So when switch power is on the relay closes and routes power from constant side to the switched side. Any of you wiring gurus have any thoughts one that?

 

@Redmann

 

I thought about it, but opted for the LVD as found here. Either way, there are many combinations including having one side of the 12 blade switched and one side using the LVD. GL!

 

For reference,

$41 Blue Sea Systems 5026 ST Blade Fuse Block 12 Circuit with Ground and Cover

Standard and

$47 Blue Sea Systems 5032 ST Blade Fuse Block Dual 12 with Ground and Cover

Split...

 

Currently have the "standard" and would probably go with the split or perhaps an additional smaller (4 or 6 circuit) one. Either way, I'm thinking of getting the power to the second side via a relay triggered by tapping into a switch circuit from the fuse box and the power coming from the constant power side. My question is, is this a reasonable way to do this or is there someplace to tap into at least a 30 amp source of switched power.

 

Mine, mounting tomorrow

 

This is what a other guy did here on Tacoma world

 

Have you looked at the

$22 Stinger SGP38 80-AMP Battery Isolator and Relay,BLACK

Stinger battery isolator and relay?

 

I guess that would work for the relay, but I'm still questioning if the method I described is sound. That is, switched power to actuate the relay, and power coming from the constant power fuse block.

 

I currently have something similar. But these circuits are all constant power, I want to add some switched (only on when ignition is on) circuits.

 

So you want a switch that will close the relay, with a lower amperage wire, which then routes the higher amperage wire to another switch? Am I reading that right?

I mean, anything is possible. Just follow the flow of electricity. Put in line the various things that you want to i.e. a relay, switch, or accessory.

 

Yeah that's pretty much it. End goal is to have a small underhood fuse block that provides switched (ignition on only) power. Like this: (excuse my non professional electrical drawing skills)

 

That looks OK to me. You probably know this, but I think you need to ground the relay.

 

Use an add a fuse that is on an "ignition on" circuit in the oem fuse panel. I just did that for power to my compressor switch. The compressor switch only will be powered up when the truck is on. Easy to find with a meter. No power when truck is off, 12volts when the truck is on.

Take the wire from the add a fuse and run it to a relay. Use the pin that will close the relay when the power is applied. Take your feed for the 2nd fuse block, from whatever heavier amperage source you want, and go to the other part of the relay, then to the fuse block. This will power up the 2nd fuse block and will always be on while the truck is running. turn the truck off, fuse block turns off.

Or if you want an extra switch in there to solely turn on the 2nd fuse block even when the truck is running (meaning while the truck is on, you can manually turn off the 2nd fuse block) then take the add a fuse wire to the switch, then outa the switch to the relay. Then continue like I said above with the heavier wiring to feed the fuse block.

In either instance, I'd fuse the feed side of the higher amp wire, between the source and the relay, with an inline fuse holder of some sort.

There's more than one way to skin a cat. Pick what you like and go with it.

 

If you want one fuse box for higher currents and one for lower accessory power the Safety Hub 150 would be good to use as the high-power block:

 

My idea was something like this:

 

Yes, I'm intending on doing a fuse tap from the OEM fuse panel to pick up the switched power to activate the relay and thus add full power to the second side. That's what's represented in my little drawing.

 

In this set up, what actuates the relay?

 

An add-a-fuse from an ignition circuit on the fuse panel.

Edit: instructions uploaded (see 2nd part), also, some reviewers are saying does not work good in below freezing temps...

 

70amp Relay with positive or negative activation .

Relay Switches Positive voltage to load.

¼ amp relay activation great for ECU negative outputs.