1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

Errand time.

Good looking out Tyler, sent a message on that diff.

I've already got manual hubs (2 sets), spindles, and axles.

Front diff, transfer case, and transmission are the biggest items I have left.

 

Haven’t found a drivetrain in car-part yet?

Also did you get the cone nuts out with the brass drift?

 

Building on the last one

 

That one bolt had bottomed out. And you railroaded it because you knew it wasn't cross threaded because other wise how'd it get in so far? But yeah thats how we learned the reason for the longer bolts right? For the LBJs that have the dust cover with that solid spacer in it? At least I thought that's what we learned

 

yeah that's right, it was that damn washer-type thing that was supposed to be on 2 of them to hold the dust cover in place...wasn't on there so that bolt bottomed out before torque could be reached, and snapped.

When I take them out now I always put them in the exact same hole they came out of, don't mix them up so I don't forget which one has the dust boot washers and which ones don't

 

Badass if true. Not any old schmo can pull that off

 

I'm just glad you said pretty descriptively what happened and what you did. I don't think anyone ever mentioned about the longer bolts in any threads.
And what the thread locker can do if reusing the LBJ bolts(I do reuse but no threadlocker) is cause it to show a tight torque reading way prematurely as that crap builds up in the threads and has nowhere to go and it's hard and crusty and fuggerin up the torque reading. So Dan gives pretty good advice above. I didn't know there was a chart to compensate for torque specs on threadlocker

 

I haven't put much effort into the drive train due to my apartment hunting.

I'll snatch one up after I get a place with a garage.

And the hub assemblies were all pulled out last week; brass punch worked like a charm .

 

My family fckn hates me

 

The inside of the hubs don't need much grease. You just put a light coat of grease on them, basically where the parts slide against each other. Where you need grease is on the end of the CV axle, where it goes in to the hub.

I used Redline CV2 grease for the light coating of grease inside the hubs, on the end of the CV axle, and also inside the boots of my CVs when I rebuilt (re-booted) them. You just need to use a decent grease that's rated for a heated application. Some of the heat from your discs is going to bleed in to your hubs.

For the rubber O'ring on the manual hub dial, I used a waterproof o-ring seal grease. I wanted to try and keep water, dust, debris out of there because it will make your hub dials start to get hard to 'lock/unlock." NAPA sells a product called Sil-glyde. That's what I used. But I'm sure there are other similar products out there that would do the same thing.

 

Yeah I've read that if you put too much grease, it'll be harder to turn.

I've got new o rings and gaskets as well. Just read too many different threads from people all over that rebuilt their hubs with different oils/grease. We're both in Cali so I figured I'd use whatever you used.

 

Oh and the brake/dust shields are dented to shit, thinking of just removing them.

 

It bends and crumbles up like aluminum foil; if I flatten them while they're off, I bet I'll bend them back up upon reinstallation of the spindles lol was just trying to find an excuse not to use them if there are no ill effects.

 

I got my diff from Tyler... But I got the trans, t-case, and front drive line from ToyAuto Mart in Rancho Cordova. They even delivered them to my house. To say I highly recommend ToyAuto Mart would be a severe UNDER statement.

 

I've seen that place, looks like damn Tacoma heaven. Kind of why I stopped looking for a drive train; would hate to have a transmission sitting outside or worse, in the extra bedroom if I got one anytime soon.

I saw your post and your experience with them. It's not too far from me so for that, I would just make the drive and forego shipping.

@Area51Runner I never asked, you going ADD or manual hubs on your swap?

 

LOL... shipping was 50 bucks... It was money well spent for me. I couldn't have paid for the round trip in gas + lunch for 50 bucks.



I see you're asking @Area51Runner about manual vs ADD on his swap. I will make a note on that. I swapped and used manual BUT I plan on going long travel in the next year or so... at which time I will swap to ADD hubs with my manual J-shift t-case. Unfortunately this will make my CVs spin 100% of the time... but the long travel needs Tundra axles and those wont work with manual hubs.

 

That's one thing I always noticed about my old v8 ram's engine bay lol. I could nearly stand inside the bay on each side (passenger and driver) Wish I still had the damn thing bc there was so much room for upgrades

 

If I ever do get around to it, more than likely manual hubs but definitely want to explore what it would take for ADD.

 

That is fucking cheap...damn.

I was asking Mike because he plans on doing a 4x4 swap as well, but after I complete mine lol. I'm specifically going manual hubs with no plans to go long travel/add.

Biggest suspension mod that'll come is a rear shock relocation, and Possibly spring under but that's it. In the meantime, I'm milking it and sloooooowly getting new parts where needed, and cleaning up/rebuilding parts that are serviceable before doing the swap.

 

Oh nice