Chopping the tacoma exhaust

No. It just added a nice enough tone for me to step back from messing with the crossover and muffler for now.

There is a small reverb at 1,500rpm that can only be heard in the garage. I have three vids in this post of me driving with the rear slider opened:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/chopping-the-tacoma-exhaust.632324/#post-21702748

 

Sorry, you're wrong.

Really? You can see my down pipe? The pic I quoted is the guys setup
above me I quoted it for the lines question.

 

No problem inside the cab at all. Normal air movement will activate it if CO is present.

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Sorry. I was going off that pic in your post showing the tailpipe going up in this post / no quote in there:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/chopping-the-tacoma-exhaust.632324/page-4#post-21748894

For me, I was not concerned after work was done. The right side axle housing was only slightly warmer to the touch. Then in another chop thread, someone posted that they had to reverse the mod because their housing was too hot to touch and their U joint was spraying after long hot runs. So, I rechecked mine with similar results. Just a bit warmer near the outlet. I even got down there after a 1hr trip up a mountain pass in hot weather. It felt no different. So IMHO, the lines on the back side of the axle are no issue if you have enough downturn, like mine. If you just chopped it without a tip, then I would worry and fix it.

 

I figured that man, all good. Going to grab a pic now, it's before it but the tip of the tip
hits the axle so my worry was it was beating on those 2 lines but while moving I can't imagine
it's doing much of anything.

Here's mine... Now that I'm looking at the pic, it seems fine

 

That was the small struggle that I had. @Bertw192 and I tried expanding a couple of the elbows on the cut section with the cheap HF expander. It was the only HF tool that really failed me. I was running around like this for a couple days until I could get a properly expanded tip:




I tried looking at autoparts stores, but they were either way to long or the tip didn't turn down enough. IMHO, I would be more comfortable if yours was shorter and turned down more. Just my opinion.

Like was posted above, I'd feel the area behind it after a good drive. Also, note the difference in heat between the tip and axle. I was surprised how hot the tip was compared to my axle.

 

same shit! happened to me with the HF tool, it is just not strong enough to expand the pipe and broke,
took it back and a local exhaust shop here did it for free for me.

 

Same! I still haven't returned it yet. I did compare the wall thickness of the shop tip to the OE tube. That shit was way thicker. I think a hydraulic press would have struggled a bit. The unfortunate part was that I messed up all the good bends from the tail. I wish I had one left for the shop to expand.

 

and that! the tip I picked up from Advanced Auto was pretty thick, the guy said, just come back if
it needs adjusting and showed me the same HF type of tool and I looked at him and then at the pipe and
said, I'll bet you can't expand this pipe with that tool - he said, nahh, I do it all the time, I said, ok try it, he
struggled his fkn ass off hahahahah and got no where, it didn't budge even a millimeter. I said, are you still
sure you do it all the time? "crickets"

 

Nice work calling him out. With two of us and a 'torque extension' on my heavy ratchet we barely got anything out of it. It was a good effort though.

 

Same here, he pulled out an extension and I assisted....nothing and then the
tool just broke in there.

 

That is the trail gear weld on cover. It was hilarious trying to find which specific one would work but all I can say is this. My truck is a 2008. It has a factory rear e locker. And this particular design of trail gear cover fits perfectly and it said on the description “does not fit trucks with factory e locker”. Hahah. The first one I bought which should have been correct indeed was a very poor fit

 

This is about how I did mine. Left a little more of the down turn though. Only time I can smell exhaust is when it’s running in the garage.

 

Good point there. Even at startup, the only time I get a whiff is when I'm rolling backward out the door.

 

Nice. That’s the one I’ve been looking at but that exact statement was the reason I haven’t bought it. I don’t think there’s a difference between the e locker housing and the regular open diff housing as long as they’re both an 8 inch. Maybe trailgear made a mistake? Oh well. I’m gonna order it. Thanks dude!

 

I ended up with the Ruffstuff weld on version. Taken allot of hits and the diff is still perfect.


https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.co...3E7UiflIxrEvf6G0y54YhMGGfCQLO6FIaAqJIEALw_wcB

 

I’ve looked at that one too. How’s the fit up on that? I order a lot of stuff from ruffstuff, in fact all my 63 swap goodies came from them.

 

Used a gas axe and some leverage in a vise to get the profile perfect - 10 minutes-ish - and then just flapper wheeled the dif and sprayed it with weld through primer and then did the same for the armor. Easy as as long as you remember to drain the gear lube out so you don’t boil it and any electrical locker connections.

 

I even asked Trailgear and I didn’t get a straight answer from them. Try to buy the one that looks like the one I got. Not the one that looks slightly different. And you’ll be fine.