Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

I understand all uncaged trucks flex and honestly the Tacoma isn’t really that bad compared to others.

My question would be how often are you bending your frame to the point of needing an alignment?

 

I need an alignment almost everytime I go out. Between knocking the cams out, flexing it like crazy, or jumping teeth in the rack. You do anything rough or flexing it hard it'll get knocked out pretty easily. There are a lot of weak links that off-roading really makes more noticeable.

 

Sounds to me like you need to cut the arms off the truck and run an axle.

 

Oh I was just confirming what @ovrlndkull was sayin. I was to the point however that I was needing an alignment ever few times I took the truck out. Mostly cams moving, though I would doubt my frame is perfectly straight still. I ended up welding one of the cams per bolt to the frame so that lcas can still be removed, and have only needed one alignment since to fix toe. Castor/ camber numbers remained pretty much where they were set when welded.

I think your cam/ pinch bolt idea is great and a set of cams cut to fit the factory alignment tabs that did the same thing would be an awesome product. Frames get tweaked, but it takes some serious abuse to do so.

 

wow nice work

 

That’s brilliant. Definitely doing this, because toe is easy to adjust at home.

 

how much money you got?!

 

Plenty but I’m a cheap bastard

 

Nope not happening. IMO a SAS'd tacoma is useless unless you hack the crap out of it and end up with a truggy more or less.
You probably aren't putting your truck in some crazy situations to notice as much as others.

But will you get it so that not only the wheel is straight but not out far enough to cause poor tire wear. I'm not a fan of home toe adjustments on vehicles where toe can be adj. on either wheel independently. It's not accurate for my liking. Unless you have good string gauges and such.

Exactly.

 

Very nice work, I like your approach. Just curious though, why not go with a lca and move the ball joint forward and keep the frame pockets where they’re at? With that uca you fabricated couldn’t you achieve the same the same thing?

Your work looks exceptional btw.

 

While I easily could have done a new lower that wasn’t the objective. I wanted indestructible 1/4” lower arm mounts with an integrated cradle/skid plate that allow 0-1” adjustment range and lockable alignment cams that use larger grade 8 pivot bolt.

Also now that ive invested the time and money to get this done JD Fabrications has the templates and jig to build more kits at a lot less than any lower arm would cost

 

So what’s the cost for a kit?

 

I don’t know exactly but after talking to the owners of JD they think the final version will definitely be under $1k

 

This is no joke..... the frames on our trucks are fleeeeexy. Actually broke a flag a few years ago that was mounted in the bed at bed level cus the ass end of the truck "twerked" so much.

Reminded me of ye ole tundra. haha.

 

this is teh sex. talk about TUUUUUUUCKED

good job sir!

 

I understand flex but bending the frame to where the truck needs an alignment after every time in the dirt doesn’t make sense to me

 

Absolutely agreed. If you are driving that hard to BEND the frame permanently you need to reassess your choice of vehicle.

 

Exactly!

This is why I built my 81... I’ve beat the living hell out of it for years on 37’s and it’s never once needed an alignment. And I mean beat on it!!!

 

Given your fab skills on the build within this tread.... i dont doubt you could beat the snot out of your 81 and never have issue!

 

Thank you! Fab skills are one thing but the design and parts are just as important. It’s all about designing and building the truck based on the intentions it will be used for.