50psi ok on stock wheels?

The extra mpg is pretty negligible by the weight of the tire alone. Rolling resistance of width and tread pattern will be more of an influence. Find a psi that works for you and be confident that you'll be less likely to get a flat than most other drivers. Heavy tires are more difficult to balance for our trucks. That's my biggest issue - the bouncy feeling in the rear or the steering wheel shake in the front. This will become more of an issue when they are getting worn down. Just make sure to rotate them regularly. I often have to loosen and retorque mine properly any time a mechanic touches my wheels to keep the truck rolling smoothly.

If you're looking to trade, I have a set of nearly bald 235/85/16 load E highway tires on rims for you

 

A lot of incorrect information in this thread. Here is an old post I made (2014) that talks about tire pressure, weight capacity, etc. On LT tires, 35 PSI is the LOWEST pressure specified by the manufacturers. Going lower than 35 PSI is not recommended on LT spec tires.....

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...between-psi-load-lt265-and-lt255-data.311659/

 

This post is completely and totally WRONG. A P-metric tire will carry more weight at a specified PSI than an LT tire, C, D or E-rated is irrelevant to weight capacity at any given PSI (a C tire will carry the same weight as an E tire at 50PSI for example). E rating means the tire can withstand more pressure than C rated to gain the higher load carrying capacity.

 

No, exactly the opposite. For the same size tire the LT load inflation curve requires *more* PSI for the same load as a P tire. Go look at the load inflation curves for tires.

And you can just look at the door stickers from Toyota to know this as well. The TRD OR uses a P265/70R16 with recommended inflation of 29/32. The TRD Pro uses a LT265/70R16 with recommended inflation of 46/46.

Yes 80 would be insane. What is "right" depends a lot on the particular size of tire. The load curves are different for every tire size. An LT285/70R17 would be at about 35 on a Tacoma. Meanwhile an LT235/85R16 would be up around 49 for the very same load.

So basically whenever someone on TW says "I used blah PSI and it was perfect" and doesn't actually state what size tires they have they are just spouting useless numbers of nonsense. Without the specific tire size the information is meaningless.

Again, what size tires? 50 PSI might have been exactly the recommend pressure for the tire (though there are very few sizes that need that high on a Tacoma so yeah you are probably right it is high). On the other hand 32 PSI is actually below the bottom of the load inflation curve for an LT tire (they start at 35).

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Sigh - another cluster fuck of a tire pressure thread on TW. Can we just make a sticky with actual factual information in it?

OP - without knowing the size of your tires no one can really give you accurate information. The load curve for a tire is different depending on the size - sometimes quite a bit different.

50 PSI is *probably* higher than necessary but could be spot on for certain tire sizes. Even if 50 PSI is the "recommended" pressure based on the description below there is still typically a lot of leeway to adjust down from there if the ride is too rough.

Note that load inflation curves/tables show the *minimum* PSI required for a given load. Manufacturers typically recommend a fair bit more PSI than that minimum. They base their recommendation on more than just load but also on ride and handling characteristics.

The standard practice for determining what PSI to inflate a tire to is of course to use the door sticker if the tire is the same size and is the same P or LT. If the tire is a different size (or P vs LT) then the standard practice is to look on the door and see what the PSI is for the OEM tire size, go to the inflation table for that size to see what load that is, then go to the inflation table for the new tire and see what PSI corresponds to the same load. This is how most tire shops and tire manufactures come up with their recommended PSI when installing non-OEM sized tires.

Now then - that is just a starting point really as typically this inflation pressure will still support quite a bit more load than required. Again - the vehicle manufacturer used ride and handling estimates when they came up with their inflation recommendation not just the expected maximum load. For example the Tacoma door PSIs correspond to a truck weighing over 8,000 lbs. So you aren't going to kill yourself if you deviate from this in a reasonable way. Reasonable meaning if you air down some you don't get below the pressure required to support the actual load on the tires. Also reasonable meaning you don't over inflate so much that the tire is so rock hard that handling is compromised badly.

So depending on your tire size (please let us know what that is) it is quite possible 50 PSI was in fact the appropriate starting point. And it could still be perfectly appropriate to do something lower.

And please - ignore every single mention in this thread of "my tire is at such and such and rides great" or "use XX PSI and you'll be good". The people saying this simply don't have the information to have given you an answer in the first place. Until you say what tire size you are running we can't know. And anyone that says what they are running without saying what size tire they have is also not giving you any actionable information - again see the example up above where depending on the size and type of the tire anything from 29 to 49 could be correct.

 

Great thing about E rat+

Since I reread what you asked. Did you inflate the spare also? Having a large difference between the spare and the other tires would cause the light to stay blinking. Also not sure what would cause the delay but I had a flat earlier this year and my tpms light didn't go on until 25 mins after I changed out the tire with the spare.

 

50 psi is over kill, tires will not wear right

 

How do you know?

 

There is no need to inflate your tires to the max rating. Had an outfit change my tires (winter/summer) drove 1/2 mile back to my house it felt like I was riding on the rims that's how hard 50 psi feels. Maybe 40 when I tow a camper on the rears. Want to wear the center of your tires out put 45/50 PSI in them.

 

This isn't that tricky. The expression, 'why reinvent the wheel' applies here. Refer to the tire and door jamb, and go figure something else out.

 

Cap, fridge, skids, not light, but not as heavy as many on the forum. In fairness I run 40 front and 45 rear. Mine are C load rated, in fact it’s the reason I went to a 17 inch wheel.

 

Door stickers are dumb.Door sticker in my truck says 29 front 32 rear. That is curious because the front weighs much more than the rear, so the front should have more pressure than the rear to have a proper contact patch. And notice the door sticker doesn't mention changing the rear pressure when fully loaded vs empty. I run 35 front 30 rear in the city. Off road anywhere 15-25. Fully loaded right now on a long highway trip 40 front and rear. More weight=more psi.

 

My door sticker says 30PSI. But I run 35PSI and l like the ride better,.and my truck bed is usually empty day to day.

 

Because.... physics!

Ok, so I think that the big thing to think about is that you probably shouldn't take opinions from random places on the internet. Lots and lots and lots of people don't know squat and try to pass themselves off as experts. And on the flip side, lots and lots and lots of people know that they don't know squat, and assume that everybody else also doesn't know squat, but that's for another story.

Point is, a good place to do your reading is actually from sources that have a vested interest in not getting sued when you die in a fiery crash because you lost traction due to too small a contact patch when you're running the tires on your compact pickup at 80 psi without even having a load in it (yeah, I blew up the numbers to make the point without implying that you went too high).

So those sources are...
- tire manufacturers.
- certain tire retailers (tirerack is pretty solid on their technical articles).
- other places.

And those sources definitely are NOT... car owner forums (like this one!).


I have a theory... that when you look at all the people who vehemently complain that "E" rated tires ride extremely harshly, those are the people who look at the number on the tire sidewall when deciding how far to inflate their tires.

Personally, I run my E's at 35 psi. I raise the rear 40-45 when carrying a load or high tongue weight. I raise the front to 40 in the winter to carry the snow plow.

Why E's for me? Because I have 200,000 km on this set, and they look like they'll be good for at least another 75,000. Oh, and they're snow rated where the C's are not (the C's also start with less thread depth).

 

If by "stock wheels", you mean the rims (in my books, the word "wheel" includes the tire, of which yours aren't stock, so the question doesn't really apply)... you will make the tires go boom way before the rim gives out due to overinflation. Even your E's.
Have you tried resetting the TPMS? There's a button below the steering column, and instructions should be in the service manual.

 

To clarify slightly, the door jamb numbers are for the stock tire *SIZE*. A bigger tire will generally require a lower pressure.

 

you sure? dclb sport trim, going off the door sticker the front weight is 1249kg the rear is 1410kg.

 

Were you a hall monitor in high school?

 

Were you dropped on your head as a child?

 

That's with a fully

I'm sure. Trucks weigh a lot more on the front tires than the rear due to the engine, transmission and all that other heavy stuff sitting in close proximity to the front tires.

The door sticker says "GAWR" then gives those numbers. GAWR isn't close to where an empty truck with 1-2 passengers is driving around at.
"The gross axle weight rating (GAWR) is the maximum distributed weight that may be supported by an axle of a road vehicle. Typically, GAWR is followed by either the letters FR or RR, which indicate front or rear axles respectively."

 

Those are the axle ratings - not the weight of the truck.

For reference I took my DCSB to a truck scale right off of the lot when I bought it. Front axle 2400 lbs, rear axle 1900 lbs. That was with no one in the truck (no driver either) and a full tank of gas. With a driver and less gas it would be a bit more front heavy.

These days with aluminum armor on the truck, steel sliders, a Flip-Pac on the back and a whole bunch of camping gear in it the weights are front 2640 lbs and rear 2760 lbs. I really go out of my way to keep the truck as light as I can so stock front bumper with no winch, aluminum rear bumper and no receiver hitch. If someone puts a steel front bumper on with a winch then the front is going to be way heavy - likely well past the front GAWR. A steel rear bumper with a swing-out can really load down the rear axle.

So once someone starts modding the truck it is hard to say exactly whether the front or the rear is going to be heavier. But stock the front is definitely heavier by nearly 500 lbs even without any passengers. Throw on a steel bumper with winch and you are pretty much already over the front GAWR (which is only 2775 lbs).