01997 Tacoma SX v6 5sp TVS1320 supercharged 300 HP! Haltech ECU, Reg Cab 800,000 Build

Hi John, I cant find it now but I thought you recently replaced your driveshaft. I am having a problem with a bad u joint and it's right after the carrier bearing. Toyota wouldn't sell it unless I bought the entire driveshaft piece with the yoke. Where did you get your driveshaft from?

 

This piece

 

Thats the Cardan joint. It’s a huge problem for all the toyota trucks.

I paid 495.00 for my Drive shaft but that’s a single cab before a price increase,yours might be 100 or two more.
Made with Spicer joints and they all can be rebuilt unlike the Toyota shafts and joints.
Zero issues and perfectly balanced.
Toyota will probably change you 1500.00?

https://www.wholesaleimportparts.com/Toyota_Tacoma_Driveshaft_1997.php

 

Yea they want $650 just for the yoke, but it comes with the u joint. Sucks I literally replaced the carrier bearing 3 months ago

 

My slip joint was making noise, yours might last a while and maybe not. So a new driveshaft for 650.00 might be the way to go.
Yea sucks you have other parts already in there. I almost did the same thing but just got a complete new driveshaft instead of fixing.

 

Yea I have been pulling a small strailer with about 2000 lbs and it's been click clack for almost 2 weeks. I dont want to run the risk of breaking something on the road. Man do I like the way this truck drives with the supercharger I have been going thru a tank of methanol every 2 to 3 weeks or so, which is not bad since I'm In boost a lot with the towing I'm doing now. Changed my nozzle, clean my k&n.. running great aside from driveshaft issue

 

If they have the driveshaft in stock you get it in 4 days otherwise if it has to be made two weeks for me.
Glad you have the methonal kit, people don’t really know what a great setup it is especially for heat soaked, but more maintenance

 

I work for the parts department in a dodge dealer now, and more than twice the sales people have come to me to see if I want to trade in my truck. I cannot find anything wrong with my truck and although the new rams look nice and ride really good, the amount of sensors and modules they go thru every couple of thousand miles, makes me want to keep my truck till the wheels fall off.

 

Coming up to 600,000 miles and my Champion radiator failed with a crack after 30,000 miles a year later.

So I just decided it was time for a custom aluminum radiator.

The new radiator is an extruded tube design. Had it made the same size as the original radiator.

This radiator is an absolute beast of a radiator!!
It’s weight is 35 pounds, the stock radiator is 10 pounds and the cheaply made Champion is 15 pounds.

Had a few hiccups with the company that made it but this is what Ive been wanting as there
are no real high performance high quality aftermarket radiators.
My temperature runs as low as 168 degrees with this radiator, mostly in between 170-180 degrees with a 170 degrees thermostat, Corolla OEM thermostat fits,

 

is there any issue with the added 25 lbs to balance out the truck
i.e., any unintended potential consequences of going outside of OEM specs for weight distribution, etc.
your custom skid weighs a bit more than the OEM did?

 

Haha nope

 

i had the chance to go check out the '97 they have in the local salvage lot (just found out it was there a couple days ago since Aug-6)
what i found there was not a pretty sight

it was your cousin truck

white, v6 single cab
239k miles
03/97 production date (a month older than mine!)

not sure if it had spent all its days here or moved around a lot until i get the VIN run for prior registrations

is there anything you think you might need pulled off of it? it was pretty trashed and probably blew a motor with the oil everywhere
the hood is the only thing I found worth a look for a keeper, just rock chips, no noticeable dents or heavy rust perforations
i might go back and get the nasty oily valve covers off for $18 each and get them powder coated for when I need to do mine again lol

there was a police tag on it like it was abandoned for dead on the highway

what I saw underneath is beyond description, it would probably be best viewed in person if you're at all curious what your 'cousin' truck a full state over looks before it goes into the grave on Sept-6 (that's the last day in the yard they told me)

i even cut above my wrist area opening the driver door and started bleeding out
someone had been there already with a sawzall to gut the inner door parts for the window and latch and i did not see the several sharp edges sticking out

 

What did this cost you?

 

I appreciate it, but no I’m good. There is a salvage yard here that has 50 some
Tacoma trucks on a regular basis 1st gens, so I have no problem finding a part
if needed.

 

A custom radiator will cost you 600-1000. Depending on the company.
The company I used was a disaster. I had to ship it back 3 times because they didn’t listen to what I wanted and still didn’t get it right the last time. They made it the size of the Champion radiator instead of the stock size and put the filler neck in the center instead of the driver's side. So its 3" shorter that what I wanted.
Going to have to live with it.
Good news is my highway temps are 184-186 and this radiator will probably be my last radiator that I will need because of the thickness and strength of the construction

For what it cost me Im not happy because I didn't get what I ordered, but will be ok

 

So after all my drama with the radiator getting made and corrected it looks like it’s finally setup as a winner.

Radiator was modified again and now everything fits perfects. It’s been a long month going back and forth.

Got a 170 Degree thermostat and put it in and now my temperature on a 90° day on the highway is at 175 to 180,
Finally got the right combination for everything and I’m a happy camper.

 

what kind of upper radiator hose is that?
i need a new one, lots of indents from the clamp(s) is why its leaking
the clamps seem good, i moved them both down to the middle of the hose and they gripped real tight still
do you put any type of 'sealer' between hose and metal

 

It’s the OEM rubber hose, so you probably just need a new hose.
No you don’t need any sealer

 

Added wireless tire air pressure sensors and temperature sensors for my tires.
Fits perfectly in the cigarette lighter area

It’s a pretty cool device for 60.00 and pretty accurate

 

Swapped out my 60 amp alternator for a DENSO 105 amp alternator.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1st-gen-105-amp-bolt-in-alternator.630459/page-7