Help - Lift question by a newbie

Guys, I’ve tried to research this on my own and the more I do the more I’m torn and confused.

I want a cosmetic lift on my 2016 4x4 DCLB TRD Sport so I can move from 265/70R17 to 285/70/R17 tires. I will honestly never have an opportunity to do any off-roading beyond a random trail in the woods, but never anything aggressive.

This is my daily driver and I average 40K miles a year w/ 90% being on the highway so the ride quality and firmness matter - I don’t want the suspension to dive in a corner while making quick lane changes or breaking hard.

I’m thinking of a Bilstein 5100 set (2” front & 1” back) and that’s it. Trying to keep this on the cheaper side so not wanting to go so high that I would have to switch control arms, or anything like that. And not planning to switch out leaf springs.

Is that a good plan? Any reason I should go a different route?

 

Do you want to do a cab mout chop on your truck, cut or trim anything? If you do then proceed, if not then stay clear of 285's

 

There are varying opinions on this but with your use, spacers would likely be just fine. If you don't want to go that route (which is perfectly understandable) 5100s would be fine but don't use the factory springs. For the rear either do a small block or AAL; I don't think the rear shocks will really give much lift but I could be wrong.

I am not an expert and I'm really just regurgitating what I've seen others espouse so do not take my word as gospel.

 

I prefer not to but the cab mount cut is something I could handle if I had to.

 

You will have too.
Ome or toytec springs on the front with the 5100s. Stay below 3 inches and you won't need new arms, but most likely will need to do the ecgs bushing replacement while you are in there.

 

do you have armour, winch bumpers? carry heavy loads often? 5100's are ok, the spring rate is what is the deciding factor on ride softeness/dive.. shocks simply dampen the rebound, and compression.. if you have extra weight you should upgrade the spring rate from the typical 650lb springs that a kit comes with to say a 700, or 750 depending on weight you carry, or plan to put on your rig.. hope this helps. if you want to stay cheaper, look at the OME lift kit, or dobinsons.. bit cheaper than Billsteins... I plan to do billstein 6112's and 5150's @ 2 inches or less you wont require UCA's.. but would be recommended for tire clearance on wider tires/rims.

 

I appreciate the honesty. It’s the differing opinions that have me confused. The main reason I’ve been advised to stay away from spacer blocks is that it creates a dead space in the shock and will create a feeling of understeer or the corner will dive when make quick lane changes or breaking. I drive in a city full of idiots and have to avoid accidents all the time so I need the suspension to remain firm.

Any reason why the factory springs wouldn’t work with the 5100’s?

 

No everything is pretty much factory. Looks like it does in my avatar.

 

Because the stock spring will be compressed to much to achieve lift and ruin the ride to stiff and harsh.

 

I beleive you can use the factory springs, but I would rather go with an aftermarket spring that is designed to work with the shocks. JMHO.. its going to cost you at least $1000-1300 for a decent kit with an AAL.

 

Thanks guys.

So what’s the consensus on 2” spacers in the front and 1” blocks in the rear? Does it create a softer ride or create dive under increased G’s from switching lanes or breaking? Or does it feel like a factory ride with just a bump in height?

 

I wouldn't lift it at all. That's just me.

 

Yeah but those bigger tires aren’t going to fit the factory height

 

for a truck you seldom take offroad, and see over 36k mile of road a year... I think you need to rethink this... fuel mileage, and other items will wear more.. kind of a waste for something you hardly take offroad. if I were you I'd stay where youre at, and just get a more aggressive tire if its the "look" you are going for... I'm putting 265/70/17 goodyear wrangler Duratracs on mine on a set of Method racing MR305nv 17 x 8.5 0ofset. I have no lift... yet.... rims arrive wednesday, hopefully early so i can go get the tires put on them that day.. can't wait..

 

Thanks but that’s where I’m at now. I’ve got 265/70r17 Nitto Grapplers wrapping Fuel wheels and have loved the tires and the look, would just like a slightly more aggressive stance. I’ll need new tires in 2-3 months so if I’m going to lift it, now’s the time to do it so I can go up on the tire size. I plan to go back with the Nitto Grapplers in whatever size I get.

 

Just trying to save you from being torn and confused. I do some off roading. You would probably consider more advanced. I don't have any lift just 265x75x16 tires. My 2017 handles just as good as my 1999 did and my 1994 4x4

 

you won’t need to do a cmc but will need a good alignment and some trimming to clear 285/70s

 

I am sitting on about 2 inches of lift and running 285/75/16. I need to cut, trim and beat the pinch welds.

 

Lol I love everyone telling him NOT to do it.
OP did not ask if he should lift. Now did he ?

There are PLENTY of people who fit 285’s without any CMC. And there are even more people who did not mess with UCA’s when doing a lift solely for cosmetics.


75% the crowd on this forum don’t even see dirt. So tread lightly with opinions.

Now, if it’s PURELY cosmetic. 3 inch Spacer lift with a 2 inch block is your call. I’ve seen plenty of people run it just fine. If you want Bilsteins and a block that route is also do-able. It just comes down to how much $$ you want to spend.

I personally went 4 inch with bilsteins + AAL for mine. I however have a 2WD, and see no off-roading. Went to a professional shop for my lift... but of course I had a few questions... one was about spacer lifts... ( 88 Rotors ) and they stand by their spacer lifts for people who don’t do any off-roading.


Lift your truck. You live once. Fuck the people telling you to save your gas mileage. That’s the same crowd that saves coupons for discounts on happy meals at McDonald’s.

 

Don't listen to ones saying not to use the factory coils, that's bullshit. The coils do not get compressed. Look at Bilstein, call someone with some knowledge. Bilstein designed the 5100s to be used with the factory coils. I have two new 18s dclb and dcsb both on 5100s and on the top setting and a one inch block. The ride is better than the stock factory ride. Some use ome coils and will sag eventually. I have driven my neighbors who used different coils and the ride is identical. Send me a PM and I will share a number for you to call and will explain more detail. You can use your factory coils and this style lift seems to be what you are looking for.