TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

This is only possible if you can do the work yourself.

 

a motto i firmly believe in. this shop only does drivelines. from big rigs to foreign cars. several mechanics have told me this is THE place to go.

 

@12TRDTacoma shaft pics as requested.

 

That pinion angle is setup for a double cardan joint at the T-Case. Is that what you're running?

 

Yes it is. just couldn't get them to work on the top bolts because the cooling fins are too tight and it wouldn't let the tool in there to insert it.

 

I'm a big fan of Time-Sert. Solid sleeve insert instead of a coil.

http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html

 

I mean.....I am me.

 

Get'r done!

 

The angles don't look bad visually speaking... Of course there has got to be something else at play here that is causing your major vibe issues outside of visual angle alone. @ItalynStylion has studied these things long enough to know what is what. He might be able to help you out.

 

i tried using some aluminum flat stock against the flanges with the tremec app. just makes me dizzy with the numbers movig at light spped. and i cat get consistent #s either. best guess is its 4* out. where? i dunno.

 

I just finished installing no less than 12 u-joints. What a PITA. I know I was not good enough to mark everything. Even if you mark the flange the shaft gets rotated from the flange. I also used different u-joints because the guy only needed one and it was a center zerk setup over the cap like stock. No wobble or vib issues through all this. I don’t know how it is possible to install u-joints with just a socket and hammer. Remove, yes, install, not a freakin’ chance without a clamp, vise, or press.

I feel like the lineup of the driveshaft with the flange is a bit of an old wives tale. Why don’t I mark the orientation of each wheel to the hub face when I remove it? The tire and rim are balanced off the hub, no different than the drive shaft. Its orientation on the third member may have some wearing in affect over time, but I have seen any science explaining why just YouTube videos.

I agree though that a driveline shop is the best place instead of guessing. I am a great parts replacer and pretty shoddy diagnoser.

 

If it is your daily which if I remember right you said it is, I would personally remove the shaft and drop it off at a driveshaft specialty shop so they can check out it's balance, and rebalance it if needed. For you there was no need to flip the carrier bearing curved side upward.. your pack is large enough to the point where you could run yours like I did where the curve of the CB housing is facing toward the ground. No additional shims or spacing was needed and it drives great all the way through.



Then again, you are a short bed, so that changes the game a little bit due to shorter distance from the CB to the rear end.

 

when we compared the two side by side i didnt see how it was going to work with or without the 3/4" spacers the truck came with. i need to find a shop that can do all of this. its hurting my brain. i dont have a month to study this and figure it out.

 

Remove your driveshaft, drive around in 4x4 for a bit, see if the vibes are still there. If not, then go get the driveshaft balanced. If they are...put the driveshaft back and figure out where the vibes are.

You'll be fine, I literally commuted in front wheel drive for the last month with zero issues. Just don't try to launch it, you'll do a front wheel burn out, and the truck will get super squirrely.

 

It's okay to throw in the towel sometimes, especially if there an urgent need for the car or truck back. It sounds like you gave it a solid attempt.

 

if my driveshaft had zero vibrations for 25k miles im really doubtful its balance. i think it was put back together wrong. the vibes only started when shims were placed under my springs. the rough downshifts stopped but the vibes started. ugh. im pulling it in the morning.

 

I’m just spit ballin here, but I’ve seen shops put leaf spring shims in backwards quite often when they are used to dealing with lowered trucks and all of a sudden have something that’s “lifted”...

 

good point. we put them in both ways with same results. i just need to research fast.

 

Do you do the carrier bearing and axle shims at the same time, or separate. Earlier it sounded like the same time, but this sounds like they were done at separate times.

If done at separate times and the vibes only started after shimming the axle then you need to adjust your shims.

If same time, start with getting the driveshaft balanced, then check driveline angles.

The small angle between the red lines should be 2-3*
I use the green fin on the third member to get the pinion reference angle.



I know you said it was tough to get a reading, and I’m sorry I’m adding to the 15 million people giving suggestions. We all just want to help.