Long Travel BS Thread

My point exactly

 

most 3.5 Kits used to be considered "Mid travel". People back then wouldn't consider something long travel unless it pulled at least 18".

People worried more about getting the most of what they had and less about what it was called.

 

I'm an asshole engineer with a tig welder and too much free time, chasing self contradictory design goals. So take it with a grain of salt, but I'm pretty good at my job.

Matched capabilities front and back is probably more important than exactly what those capabilities are, because you can drive to the truck's limits and it's balanced.

If you want to LT the front plan on doing the DMZ SUA LT rear, 14" or 16" shocks and then you'll be in good shape.

As someone else said, how wide you go is mostly a factor of how wide your local trails and Walmart parking lot are.

Otherwise leave your suspension alone, buy your significant other something nice and go wheeling/camping/pose flexing at the mall for Instagram; whatever you do for fun

 

Good luck and enjoy it.

 

This is the best explanation I have seen about the +2 mid travel debate.

 

Not gonna lie man, if your disposable income is running out soon you may want to consider keeping your setup. LT takes funds to maintain just like your front and nothing is sadder then seeing a fellow “bro” down due to lack of funds. You could just start to save your cash to keep your current setup maintained. Keep in mind though, your rear is designed to work with your front as it is. Unless you have some sort of plan for the rear to take into consideration then I don’t know if you will really like your set up in the long run if you want to do go fast stuff that the LT kits are designed for.

 

Well said.

And if you want the look @jeff b I’ll likely have a pair of 2” wheel spacers up for sale soon on the cheap. No name brand, lug centric, and never gave me an issue. Just swapping wheels with different back spacing and will likely get rid of the spacers.

 

Peer pressure used to be a lot stronger up in here.

let the talking of reasonably regarding expenses come to an end por favor.

 

I thought we had him too, but we lost.

So about my snorkel, do I just cut a hole in the hood and run it?

 

Weld a can of baked beans to your hood for a cleaner install.

 

Good idea, the welding process will help heat the beans up for maximum enjoyment.

 

Bring some hot sauce and that’s a clutch meal on the trail.

 

Just to level set...we all agree that stock is 5” right ?

 

Haven't posted much in the Long Travel section cause I hadn't gotten to a point where I was looking to start tackling that project. But now I'm the rookie coming to the experts for some advise.

Ok... So I'm getting to the point of having most of my (current) truck projects completed. So, now I'm looking for more ways sink money in my truck.

This is one of those things that's going to happen over time... as with 4x swapping the truck... it will eventually happen. Looking to go long travel in the front. I have a pretty good idea of what I want to do up there. It's pretty straight forward, just pick what you want and then go buy the shit. The rear, however, (at least the way I'm looking at it), isn't quite as straight forward. I'm not in to having my front end 5-7 inches wider than the back. So, the question is... Tundra or Sequoia rear axle? Or more specifically, drum or disc rear brakes?

I know there are benefits to both. I'm not specifically looking to do disc brakes, but I'm trying to see if I can get some input on the pros and cons either way. One thing is, I'm wondering if going disc in back would open up a Pandora's box with master cylinders etc.

The overall plan is going lengthened axle (Tundra/Sequoia), out boarding the shocks, flip kit, and Chevy 63s. I'm also thinking I'll need to lock the rear axle because (if I'm not mistaken) Tundra/Sequoia didn't come with an e-locker.... aaaand, as I'm typing this, I'm realizing I'll probably have to re-gear the rear axle as well.

 

tundra axle is what i ran before, easy swap, just weld your spring plates on, drive flange bolted up to the stock driveshaft.

i would reconsider the 63s, youll need new hangers and shackles, at that point f67s or a E30 pack and get the most bang. if you dont wanna do SUA i had J59s and they killed it for bolting right up, if your looking for more weight friendly leafs then allpro makes some for heavier loads that still perform good.

 

I guess I should have been more specific in what I'm trying to do with the application. Not looking to go fast. Looking to carry weight (gear) and do trails. The "long travel" is more for articulation.

I have a pretty good idea of what the 63s will take. I'd be doing the 63s with or without the Long Travel. The wider axle would just give me the opportunity to outboard the shocks to give me more stability on the highway.

 

id suggest some all pro leafs. 63s are good for 80s yota crawlers but they are bouncy as fuck when we used to have them on our crawlers with no weight.. ive seen allpro "overland" style trucks perform pretty good with their springs with weight, crawling, and giving it some beans over the bumps. Big plus is you dont have to relocate your front and rear hangers. just food for thought.

what shocks your looking to run outside the frame

 

this is the setup i had before.
J59s with 2.5x12" king smoothies and some simple hoops. had good flex and held decent weight



ended up redoing the towers and added in 12" bypasses also

 

I run daily with around 200 to 300 pounds in my bed... add 100 pounds when the RTT is on the truck (most of the time).

I've heard good things and bad things about the AllPro Expo leafs... last I heard was stay the hell away from them. 63s give more droop than AllPro.


When it's all said and done, I'd be looking to run 10 or 12 inch 2.5 King or Fox Resi.