Resetting first gen abs light

Pretty sure a scan tool will clear readiness codes too when you clear DTCs. My cheap one from Harbor Freight does, but at least I don't need to fiddle with radio settings.

 

I don't think basic obd scanners can read an abs light. Only CEL. I've never seen anything on mine telling me that my abs module is no longer there.

 

So, the Autel CAN OBD2 MaxiScan

$20 MS300 OBD2 Scanner Code Reader, Turn Off Check Engine Light, Read & Erase Fault Codes, Check Emission Monitor Status CAN Diagnostic Scan Tool

MS300 arrived. Hooked it up and it cleared my check engine light that was on due to removing the second o2 sensor. The ABS light went from staying on steady to blinking 3 times, pausing for a second, blinking three times again, then staying off for 4 seconds. This cycle of blinking continues. At least it's not on constantly like it was but it's still not fixed.

 

That's a Code 33, a right rear ABS sensor.

http://www.testroete.com/car/Toyota/mr2 spyder/References/Technical Training/05 - Brake Systems/20.pdf?utm_source=ToyotaOwnersClub&utm_medium=ForumLinks

Is that the sensor you replaced?

 

You could definitely be right, there...

Sounds like OP hooked up his new OBD scanner, and the ABS light threw a flash code, so seems like hooking up the OBD does the same as jumping the two wires as described above.

 

The check engine light went out. It was on due to me doing away with the second o2 sensor. The abs isn't staying lit constantly. It blink 3 times, goes out for 2 seconds, blinks 3 times again, goes off for 4 seconds. Repeats. Check engine is still off. I deleted that code.

 

I replaced the front driver's side sensir. It was bad when I replaced that front left wheel bearing

 

Interesting, sounds like you might have a second one that's bad, which could explain why the light didn't go off before.

 

I think I do too. The scanner said 'no codes' after I deleted the check engine light and the light went out. A couple of my friends are mechanics and have mote sophisticated scan tools. I just wanted to make the light go out. I'll have one of my friends hook theirsup and pin point the issue. Thanks for all your help!

 

It takes at least a couple of drive cycles after clearing CEL with OBDII for trouble codes to reappear. Same with Jumping the pins to get a ABS flash signal code. CEL will turn itself off if repairs remedied the trouble code.

 

The check engine light came back on so I plugged the obd2 back in. It gave me two codes. One is for evap system and more accurately the charcoal box that holds unburn fumes. It said, small in the code book. Not sure if the charcoal canister is bad or if there is a vacuum leak in one of the rubber hoses. The other code is for the heated 02 sensor which is the second one I did awaywith when I replaced the exhaust pipe. Apparently this scanner doesn't do ABS.

 

Random wait on I. Regards to that sensor, how hard is it to replace? I think mine is bad... both my fronts have a tip tie on them and the brakes are a bit weird when coming to a final stop on and off. Curious if you had a similar issue. They would kind of push back like the abs is locking up or something

 

It's very simple to replace. One bolt holding the sensor in, a few attachment clips along the length of the cable and a plug in connection. It's a 1-20 minute fix. As far as I can see, my truck's abs system is in test mode or there is another bad sensor on one of the other three wheels. Bringing it to my friend that's a mechanic and has a scanner that reads all systems of vehicles.

 

My brakes worked fine, I just got tired of having the ABS light being on for 5-6 years. I never had the feel of the brake pedal pushing back on my foot. Originally, I just put a bolt in as as plug instead of buying a sensor. I'll take pics of the cable routing if ya need it for reference. Like I said, they have some metal and some plastic connectors that attach thr the a-arm bracket, frame, etc.