Driveshaft busted up

2015 offroad 4x4 dcsb. Banged up rear section of driveshaft at moab. Anyone know of direct replacements oem or better quality/strength? Dont want 1 piece, already called tom woods driveshafts and they dont have ability 2 balance 2 piece shafts. Anyone have similar situations where they had shaft fixed or replaced? Thanks for the help!!

 

I broke mine a few months ago in the rubicon. rear piece after the carrier bearing. I went to a local driveline shop and they fabbed me a nice double cardan drive shaft with thicker walled pipe in a day. I'd highly suggest looking for a local shop who can maybe fix or fab you a new replacement.

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All aftermarket ones are weak and shitty imo. Tom woods is not even half the price of a new oem one. Go double cardan or nothing.

 

Dang that drive shaft is twisted all to hell. I've read the double cardan are better for lifted trucks.

 

Yep.

 

So the double cardan is still a 2 piece with carrier bearing but another u joint added?

 

Tom Woods said they can only make a 1 piece that will be larger than stock diameter(4"), since i am on 4.88 gears.

 

Is that a 1 piece on a 2wd?

 

Correct, the 'double cardan' joint is back to back u-joints in a housing. Most of us are getting that joint install just to the rear of the carrier bearing.

My modified driveshaft was about $450 from a local shop, which I'm sure you can find out in Utah. One thing worth noting: to achieve the double cardan joint, they'll likely need to downsize those u-joints from 1330 size to a 1310 (it's an issue with what size double cardan parts are on the market for them to use). If you wheel hard (which apparently you do) it is about a 12-13% reduction in u-joint strength (if i recall right) and that might not be good for wheeling hard.

I don't wheel hard, just offroad to get places, and it's treated me great.

 

It's a custom 2 piece (modified from my stock unit) with double cardan joint, on my 2010 4x4. Parts list:

 

Great info, much appreciated. Tom Woods is 5 minutes from my house but they wont do anything with a 2 piece because they cant balance it.

 

Yeah and a 1 piece has some notable "cons" for a street rig. The local shop I took mine to didn't blink an eye about it really, just had to find parts for the DC joint that all meshed, shorted and flip the rear-half section of the driveshaft and bam.

I recall some company out in Cali doing a beefy custom 2 piece driveshaft for a couple Tacoma guys, but the price tag was more like $1,500 or so.

 

So they modified your stock shaft? Was it damaged? Why did you have the work done?

 

Yep, modified stock. No damage, just vibrations from a ridiculously mild 2.5" lift that wouldn't go away no matter what I did. This pretty much fixed my vib issues.

I realize, now, that you hadn't asked about the double cardan joint, rather it was suggested to you. I have no info on a beefed up driveshaft in general for you to look for, but since the DC joint was mentioned, I figured I'd chime in with my experience going that route, specifically for you, the weaker 1310 u-joints in the DC joint. The u-joints at the transfer case and diff will remain 1330s.

 

I just want something that has same or more clearance and stronger than stock. Was thinking of fabbing a traction bar/slider for the driveshaft 2 reduce damage next time!!

 

I don't have enough knowledge on it but I gladly went with a thicker walled aftermarket one from a good local company since the stock ones are pretty thin (this was @tacomgee's shaft)

 

Check this thread out, should have some good info that might interest you: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/custom-double-cardan-driveshaft-installed.560063/

 

Thanks again for your replies and info!! I spoke with GSR drivelines in salt lake city and he said he can fix or fab up new shaft and can balance 2 piece shafts!

 

Is that fuggin papper inside the stocker?

 

Yes it is