Deck plate vs. big ass hole

i see that, does it come with all the screws as well. i don't do a lot of highway driving am I going to benefit from this mod?

 

Yes, in hard core emissions states, and also if your truck is running poorly as it is, I can see it being a factor.

it gives increased throttle response, so you'll notice it down low too. If not, you're out $12... I think it comes with everything, but I'm not sure. You don't really need the screws though. You could just use some PVC glue or silicone or something instead. or you could buy some screws from your local home depot. just order it and see what it comes with. if you need something extra, a hardware store is around the corner, im sure.

 

It might have a tendency to lean it out , on carburated engines would surely lean it out not quite sure about injected but I'm thinking it probably would a little...

 

come on guys, let's not be so obtuse with this...

these are obd2 vehicles, equipped with an onboard computer that is constantly deciphering signals being sent from your MAF, o2 sensor, and all the other sensors in your engine, and adjusting fuel trims and timing according to a variety of contributing factors. Heat, load, airflow, etc.

The amount of additional air flowing through the MAF is probably akin to driving your truck on a cold day or something, where the air is just slightly more dense than when it's hot and your truck feels just a little bit more fun to drive. We're not compressing air and tricking the MAF into thinking its seeing more air than it is so that it forces the ecu to dump more fuel. We're not adding so much air that the ECU can't compensate for the addition and add fuel as a result. There is no way that the deck plate mod could possibly lean out your mixture. Nothing short of a wideband o2 map proving that I'm wrong will convince me that I am.

The ecu is more than capable of reading and adjusting your AFR based on the additional amount of air coming in through the hole in the intake box.

Would you remove your CAI before you took your truck to get it emissions inspected? I doubt it. But again, the beauty here is that you can just screw in the plate if you're that worried about it, and you're back to stock.

 

If this were true, if the ecu was not able to compensate added fuel for the increased airflow generated by the deck plate, we would not be seeing +5hp on the dyno. You can't make more power with more air alone, you have to have the fuel to go along with it.

so, there's no way trucks are running lean with a deck plate.

 

Very well said. X2 ^^^^

 

Dude, I said I wasn't sure of the implications of "more air" in an EFI system I was more certain about the effects it would have on a carburated system , & by your own observation wouldn't you need the extra air to combust the extra fuel being introduced & vice-versa & I would think that just by the very nature of the EPA & Clean Air Resource Board (here in CA anyway) & the narrow parameters to meet emissions standards that there isn't alot of levity for the ECU to just arbitrarily "dump" extra gas into the mix because of an influx of added air it sensed thru the intake. I didn't see where anyone implied that more air alone would increase HP nor will a "leaned out" system create more HP, maybe I missed it

 

thanks.

I understand it's not a big deal to do this. I guess what I didn't understand is just how strict CA emissions are.

If this is true, I take back everything I have said about Toyota engineering being spot on. To think that this truck, built for utility and economy, is coming out of the factory running rich, is just ridiculous and unacceptable.

And also, if it were true, and the truck was running rich, adding more air and leaning it out a tad would only make you MORE likely to pass emissions testing! The computer is looking for as close to a stoichiometric AFR as possible; 14.7:1 Running 13:1 would obviously influence your ability to pass, as would running 16:1. So if the ecu can't compensate and it leans out, then all the better for you in your ability to pass emissions.

#1 I wasn't picking on you, I'm just talking. #2 You are correct that without adjusting your fuel screw on a carburetor engine, adding more air will cause you to lean out. #3 I DID say you need air AND fuel to create more power. I was saying that if the ECU CANNOT adjust fuel trims to balance out the added air introduced by the deck plate mod, we would not be seeing gained HP on the dyno from it.

The ECU doesn't care what state you live in. It's job is to hit target AFRs. That's all. Toyota engineers wrote code to that effect, so it does have the ability to pull timing, adjust fuel trims, etc. to get to as close as possible, that target AFR that Toyota set, whatever it may be. If the ECU cannot hit those targets with the introduction of a new variable (i.e. added airflow) then 1 of 2 things is wrong. 1) Toyota engineers are idiots, or 2) something on your truck is broken. Period.


The long and the short is this. If you live in a state like CA or MA, use the deck plate. Screw it back in before your emissions test. You're golden.

How this thread started was me being curious as to whether or not people are seeing even more gains from just cutting out the front of the air box completely or if the 4" hole for the deck plate is sufficient. In Texas, we do have emissions testing, but it's not as stringent as CA. Couple that with the fact that I don't offroad, well I was curious to see if I could get more out of it. The consensus seems to be that the deck plate is enough.

 

Honestly, I couldn't be absolutely, positively certain that I gained anything from doing the deck plate mod. However after disconnecting my battery cable and letting the ecu try and re program itself I think I do feel a bit more oomph in the lower rpms.
I cant be certain.
The only way to find out is dyno runs and I have yet to see anything on paper comparing the two.
my 2 cents.

 

you guys are way over thinking this...

 

care to elaborate?


and besides, if nothing else, this is a great way to waste some time at work

 

you could have a 12" hole and it wouldn't be any better than a 4 inch hole. You're maximum diameter for air is only as big as your smallest opening in the whole air intake system. For instance, your intake channel/hose whatever is only about 4 to five inches in diameter. That is the bottleneck so anything larger than the rest of the air intake system is useless.

 

and if by any chance a 4" hole wasn't enough, there is still the factory routing that would more than cover then difference

this just allows a quicker intake of air....it's not necessarily going to be colder etc

just alows an easier injestion of air than having to route it through the stock system

 

Thanks, that's exactly the answer I was looking for. Details are king.

Yes, I am fully aware. Thanks for the input.

 

It has been dyno'd and proven, but I don't have the data handy. It is probably somewhere on this site, and I think chris 4x4 knows it off the top of his head, and may have the curves. I think it is maybe 8hp, give or take, on the 3.4.

 

No worries Bro' I get what your sayin'...

Although there is usually something (albiet small) askew on my truck & sometimes I do think the Toyota engineers are idiots ....

 

Yeah, I think there is something askew with you, dude!

 

Gadget Online

 

Haha ! No shit huh,

Who the hell would put 1st gen. Tundra 5100's on a 1st gen. Tacoma anyway ??