Help! 2016 OR rear diff fluid change

I used some Royal purple syncromax or something like that. Think I should swap it out for the ravenol?

 

That is a good question. On their website for the T case, this is what comes up:


But, attached is a cross ref chart. The last item on the last page references Toyota LF. This chart is dated 2014 though?


For the Ravenol, we are all going off of the Toyota 08885-81081 cross ref on the bottle and the straight 75w. This is from their website:


And like I said above, I asked Redline about 3rd Gen MTs and T case:


I figured that if I was bothering them about the T case, I'd ask for confirmation on the MT also.

 

So Ravenol Is what you need for the t-case?

 

Ravenol or the Toyota LF fluid:



Ravenol is about 1/3 the cost, although there are VOAs that show the additive package is similar but a good bit less than the Toyota fluid.

 

so basically the LSD is nothing but smoke and mirrors!

 

Auto LSD? Are you saying that it is false advertising? The OM and brochure clearly explains it as brake actuated:


For me, I have been able to move forward or slip both tires with just Auto LSD engaged. Also, I got my best 0-60 runs in with Auto LSD.

I'm a gizmo hater and typically a traction control hater, but the TRAC system in the Taco works pretty damn well in my experience.

Question since you have a 2016: Did it take you think long to realize that you don't have a mechanical LSD? If so, it sounds like it might be doing it's job perfectly.

 

i never use it and when i bought it it sounded like true LSD and the salesman did not explain, i did not read the manual before buying. to this day i don't know when it is applicable to use it. for those of you in snow country do you drive with it engaged while driving on snow covered roads. i see where it says do not go over 5mph while engaged. all i know is i compare it to the 456 positraction 3rd member i put in my 348 59 Chevy 50 years ago. it would lay down two burnout tracks on the road, true 2 wheel drive i feel like i only have 1 wheel drive now. on wet roads sometimes i get 1 wheel spin on acceleration in my taco. i can't even wrap my head around how using the brake system simulates LSD. but i am an old fart and to me brakes are for slowing down and stopping. LOL
i was thinking of trading in for the 2020 green truck but between the above and the atkinson engine think i will pass.

 

I don't know if you have an OR or not. If you have an OR, you should have both the Auto LSD and an e-Locker. For the Locker, you need to be going slower than 5mph to engage, but there is no upper speed limit once engaged. If you have another model, you will just have Auto LSD.

For the Auto LSD, you can engage it at any speed. Below 35mph, you will get brake simulated LSD and no stability control (TCS). When you go over 35, the TCS Off light will turn off.

Just like traction control and ABS, the Auto LSD function just brakes the wheel that is spinning. This function is more aggressive than normal and will allow the truck to move when you lose traction. A true 2wd with a bit of delay.

The best thing that you can do is get out there and test:


In the pic above both Auto LSD and 4Hi / 4Lo will creep me up and over the side of that ramp.

I will often turn on Auto LSD when getting on an empty, wet on ramp. The tail will hang out and then I'll have a bit of fun.

 

i have TRD Off Road.
thanks for the explanation.

 

No problem.

Engage that eLocker and you'll get 11s if you can break them loose.


If your driving through corners in the dry, Auto LSD would be the better option just for tire scrub and such.

 

Synchromax is 35% thicker at 100°C and lacking magnesium, phosphorus and zinc, compared to Toyota LF.

 

***orders a quart of ravenol next day prime***

Thanks @splitbolt

 

Honestly any rated

$29 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90 gear oil will do perfectly fine. These trucks are not picky when it comes to diff fluid. I usually just throw in Supertech Synthetic 75w-90 from Walmart. Way more cost efficient than RP or Redline if you’re only doing 30k mile intervals anyways.

 

Germans got shit sorted man. No pump / funnel needed.

 

Those bottles suck for the front diff.

 

I don't know...I kind of like the can.
Guess I'm a sucker for nistalgia.

 

It is cool that it is just right for filling the T case.

 

For those contemplating switching out their Toyota LF fluid in their T-Case, don’t. They are importing that fluid from Japan in steel cans, to fill an American-made borg-Warner transfer case for a reason. Borg Warner could easily fill those T-cases at their factory with any oil Toyota asked for, but instead we get this special Japanese fluid. Ask yourself why?

The difference in the operation of the transfer case between jobber oil and the LF fluid is night and day. The extra $50 is worth every penny. Being that you only have to change it every few years, buy the proper stuff. I made the mistake of going aftermarket and it was a mistake.

 

What issues did you run into? It doesn't cost an extra 50, just an extra 25 or so.

 

Hard shifting to no-shifting in cold weather. Noisy operation at all other times. I have been told “LF” stands for “low friction” and the Toyota LF ‘Fluid’ (note they don’t call it oil) has PTFE or something like that in it, and the reason it is in steel cans and not plastic bottles it to keep whatever additive package that is in there from reacting/oxidizing before it has a chance to bond to the chain and gears in the T-Case. What a “Lexus mechanic” told me FWIW, but the difference is not subtle, so I believe it.