Long Travel BS Thread

All that looks like it would handle 40’s just fine

 

Pass
I wanna recoup my bank account and go home before I consider 40’s

 

Planning my build out now so I dont have to do this twice. Starting with the rear first. I doubt i will see much go fast off roading, mostly crawling and climbing. Lot of weight in the rear, high clearance rear bumper with dual swing out, bed rack, rtt etc. Is SUA a good option with the added weight? I'll be running 315/75r16. I'll bed cage if I have to, but would prefer to get as much travel as possible with staying under.

I've looked at SUA, shackle flip, and the archive garage shock relocation kit. Just not sure if SUA is right for me with the added weight.

 

No.

 

Guys have done that set up with success, but if you don’t plan to do that much go fast stuff it may not be that advantageous.

Btw the archive relocate is practically the same as the TC mid travel sua kit which is designed to pair well with oem mid travel coilovers. With an LT kit up front your rear won’t be able to hang.

 

I know, the rears suck ass which is why I'm trying to decide the best route. I just want as much rear travel as possible.

 

Figure out the actual weight on the rear end of the truck (start by weighing what you have now, then get shipping weights for the stuff you want to add). Then compare that to the listed weight capacities for various leaf kits (remember they are based on stock weight + 300, 500, 700, whatever) so you need to know the OEM stock weight and the weight of your rig to figure that out.

Then buy a leaf pack that meets the weight requirement, and your budget. Then put a set of King 12" shocks and a BAMF relocate on the back.

If you're not going fast, and not doing a bed cage, there is no reason to spend the money on a SUA kit, and for crawling the loss of clearance is another issue.

 

Does anyone have a recommendation for a roll center number for the rear? Trucks being built as a ranch truck. Maybe sees 40 off-road, not too much crawling.

 

This.

The cons outweigh the pros of SUA for your application and you don’t need a larger bore shock to gain travel #s in the rear.

 

That's basically what I've done in the past on previous builds. Always limited with the rear suspension on these trucks.

 

If 12" of travel is enough, go after the quality of it. My plan is to use some Gen 2 Ford Raptor Fox Shocks. A quick measurement with the tape shows 31" extended, a true 12" stroke, base valves in the reservoirs, aluminum bodies, and no bypass tubes to work around.

 

@TMFF spoke about using them when I had asked about something similar in the past.

 

Nice, I figured someone around here has messed around with the idea.

 

Took a hard hit on the pass side this weekend. Took the truck in to get aligned and can’t get the toe to get into spec both tie rods are maxed out. Any ideas what it could be

 

Bent spindle or shifted something terribly. Rack jumped a lot of teeth.

 

Mines the same way^ and my steering wheel is super cocked now. I'm thinking either frame possible tweaked or maybe a spindle is bent. Can't find any welds cracked or anything wonky looking on frame or spindle, so unsure whats up.

 

My alignment place told me I need to shorten my steering extensions by like 1/2", I asked why two years ago they were able to align it just fine and now they can't and I got "we have no record of that"....

*me rolling eyes so hard they fall out of my head* (I've only ever gone to this shop)...time to find a new shop I guess.

 

Think I found the problem pretty sure I bent a spindle
passenger side this is the driver side

 

Our rack and pinion suck. Ended up blowing both passenger and driver side seals out on my recent trip to harlan. Also has anyone else noticed that our rack ends bend upward causing toe in when using a front locker crawling.

 

I've opened up the Gen 2 3.0's. Way better setup than the older 2.5's even. Better piston and base valving for an all around good working 12" travel shock